Clearance for Crank Endplay
#1
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My understanding is that acceptable clearance is 0.0015-0.0078", with a preferred clearance of 0.004-0.005" for higher horsepower applications. Now is that clearance the total crank endplay meaning that when the crank is pushed all the way forward, the clearance between the front surface of the thrust bearing and the crank should be 0.0015-00.78" and the back of the thrust bearing is tight against the crank?
Or does that clearance apply for both the front and back sides of the crank thrust bearing, meaning that when the main caps are bolted down, the clearance at both the front and rear sides of the crank thrust bearing and the surface of the crank needs to be within that range? As in for example, a max clearance between the front surface of the thrust bearing and crank is 0.0078" and the max clearance between the rear surface of the thrust bearing and crank is 0.0078"?
Thank you in advance!
Or does that clearance apply for both the front and back sides of the crank thrust bearing, meaning that when the main caps are bolted down, the clearance at both the front and rear sides of the crank thrust bearing and the surface of the crank needs to be within that range? As in for example, a max clearance between the front surface of the thrust bearing and crank is 0.0078" and the max clearance between the rear surface of the thrust bearing and crank is 0.0078"?
Thank you in advance!
#3
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^^^ This ^^^
The spec means that the crank should have about .005" ± .003" of front-to-rear play.
It helps when building, to bolt in the main cap with the thrust bearing on it; torque it lightly, maybe 20 ft-lbs or so; then whack each end of the crank real good with a DEAD-BLOW hammer. NOT just take a regular hammer and waylay it. You could use a regular hammer and a block of wood though. Do it acoupla times from each end, to make sure the thrust bearing is centered and flat against the thrust surface of the crank. Then finish torquing everything.
The spec means that the crank should have about .005" ± .003" of front-to-rear play.
It helps when building, to bolt in the main cap with the thrust bearing on it; torque it lightly, maybe 20 ft-lbs or so; then whack each end of the crank real good with a DEAD-BLOW hammer. NOT just take a regular hammer and waylay it. You could use a regular hammer and a block of wood though. Do it acoupla times from each end, to make sure the thrust bearing is centered and flat against the thrust surface of the crank. Then finish torquing everything.
#4
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Hi Mike, sure the above stated methods are correct.
I ADD, do the "dial" method IN THE CAR with the TRANSMISSION fully connected !
I have OFTEN seen the results of NO end float AFTER the transmission is bolted to the engine.
MY more common method is to BOLT the driveline together ON THE FLOOR and THEN the MEASUREMENT is EASIER.
Lance
I ADD, do the "dial" method IN THE CAR with the TRANSMISSION fully connected !
I have OFTEN seen the results of NO end float AFTER the transmission is bolted to the engine.
MY more common method is to BOLT the driveline together ON THE FLOOR and THEN the MEASUREMENT is EASIER.
Lance