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Im about to do a top end build on my car, and was looking for any insight on any parts I may be missing or over looking. Its a 2002 Camaro SS, just broke 100k miles last week. Here is what I have so far, just waiting on heads and intake from BTR to ship.
RPO sticker
ATI STEEL DAMPER 7.530" DIAMETER, NO UD, WITH A/C (model #917242)
Still the stock Auburn posi. Working front to back with suspension and chassis work mixed in. Going in steps. Not sending it for drag or circuit. Next will be drivetrain focus with clutch and trans work. Then driveshaft coupled with rearend and gears.
It is a 6-speed. Also I was informed about pushrods. I have 7.4 chromoly pushrods already, forgot to list them. Not chasing numbers in a dyno, time slips from a drag strip, or lap times at an auto toss. Just wanting to build a stout and realiable cruiser. Id be just as happy with 400hp as I would with 475hp.
Nice looking list. Good idea for belts & tensioners. Unless a shop is doing the install & would have: proper head gaskets, needed seal kits(timing, valley, valve covers etc), lifter trays(maybe not needed but), coolant bypass line for back of heads(instead of blocks), oil filter/fluids. Maybe you already have some of these things. Just thought I'd try to type some things I didn't see. Def make over 400rwhp.
From: Coast of San Mateo County Between Pacifica & HMB
Originally Posted by Blk02CamaroSS
It is a 6-speed. Also I was informed about pushrods. I have 7.4 chromoly pushrods already, forgot to list them. Not chasing numbers in a dyno, time slips from a drag strip, or lap times at an auto toss. Just wanting to build a stout and realiable cruiser. Id be just as happy with 400hp as I would with 475hp.
If that is the case why the Stage 4 cam VS a stage 2 for example which with your heads &
Intake would still have made ~450 RWHP. I don't think that will be a fun cruiser with that
much overlap and will be very challenging to tune. Just my .02
Good Luck.
I'd throw in lifter trays since loose trays may let the lifters spin. I'd also measure for pushrods to be sure you're not going too long. Supposedly the ls7 lifters are about .05 taller than ls1 lifters so the preload will be different with the same pushrod length. I haven't dealt with either personally but I've been seeing it mentioned enough to keep it in the back of my mind.
Going to a shop that helped build a record holding CTS-V. Ive no doubt in their ability and that they will be able to tune it properly to reduce, or eliminate entirely, low rpm cam surge. Belts, tensioner, valley cover, coolant bypass and lifter trays added to short list. Will ensure pushrods are proper length. If different length required, easy enough to get proper size. Ive already got gaskets. Getting LS2 water pump is easily acquired. NGK plugs and MSD wires were put on when the headers and exhaust went on. Oil filter/oil getting this weekend. Keep suggestions coming.
I'd throw in lifter trays since loose trays may let the lifters spin. I'd also measure for pushrods to be sure you're not going too long. Supposedly the ls7 lifters are about .05 taller than ls1 lifters so the preload will be different with the same pushrod length. I haven't dealt with either personally but I've been seeing it mentioned enough to keep it in the back of my mind.
Really all of it, the lifters are exactly the same and the trays do nothing more than keep the lifters in proper position when the lifters aren't loaded against the cam. If a roller fails that crapo piece of plastic AIN"T gonna do diddly to stop it from turning in its bore.
The trays do help stabilize the lifters to a point. And for $25 it's cheap insurance. I wouldn't expect plastic expossed to high temps for over 15 years to be reusable. I may be overly cautious but it's still something I'd recommend.
As for the lifters there were plenty of people back in the day that measured and found the same differences in height. I've never bothered measuring the old stuff since I don't reuse lifters. I always recommend measuring pushrods anytime the cam or rockers change. That's being super cautious and probably unnecessary for most circumstances, but the pushrod checker and a test spring is fairly cheap.
I guess I'm just a bit **** about some stuff lol. I'm always being accused of turning small projects into big projects and it's not stopping as I get older lol
If that is the case why the Stage 4 cam VS a stage 2 for example which with your heads &
Intake would still have made ~450 RWHP. I don't think that will be a fun cruiser with that
much overlap and will be very challenging to tune. Just my .02
Good Luck.
I agree and OP whether or not they build record holding cars, nobody has driveablitly competitions so there's no driveablitly records, and there will be noticeable low rpm driveablilty issues with that big of a cam. And if you read any of Navyblue's stuff, you'd know he's giving valuable advice.
However I dig the build and think it will be a solid performer. I do think it would be a little more fun with a hair less cam though, especially since you're not building it to be a race car.
Are you sure you went with 215 heads? If so it seems like an odd match up to have heads on the smaller side with so much cam. Those heads will do great for cylinder filling through velocity, but the over lap and reversion kinda takes away from that. Navy correct me if i'm wrong on that.
I agree and OP whether or not they build record holding cars, nobody has driveablitly competitions so there's no driveablitly records, and there will be noticeable low rpm driveablilty issues with that big of a cam. And if you read any of Navyblue's stuff, you'd know he's giving valuable advice.
However I dig the build and think it will be a solid performer. I do think it would be a little more fun with a hair less cam though, especially since you're not building it to be a race car.
Are you sure you went with 215 heads? If so it seems like an odd match up to have heads on the smaller side with so much cam. Those heads will do great for cylinder filling through velocity, but the over lap and reversion kinda takes away from that. Navy correct me if i'm wrong on that.
Ive indeed read Navys posts, and numerous others. Ive driven far worse. From rat-rod woodsides to Duce coupes, to slit window mercurys. Smooth drivability is a non issue and I can adjust easily. If cam ends up just being wholly undrivable, its too easy to switch out. Im positive on the TFS 215. Was kinda going off the bore it was designed for, 3.9. And when the stock 346 pushed daisies, I can reuse the 215 on my daily driver with minimal work.
Ive indeed read Navys posts, and numerous others. Ive driven far worse. From rat-rod woodsides to Duce coupes, to slit window mercurys. Smooth drivability is a non issue and I can adjust easily. If cam ends up just being wholly undrivable, its too easy to switch out. Im positive on the TFS 215. Was kinda going off the bore it was designed for, 3.9. And when the stock 346 pushed daisies, I can reuse the 215 on my daily driver with minimal work.
Gotcha man. I wouldn't say undriveable, just seemed like it was a little of a mismatch in the head and cam choice. But it sounds like you know what you're getting and planned it that way. Either way, still a nice build sheet and to each their own on selections.
However, the advise is noted and appreciated. I fully expect some drivability issues, but I am prepared for it. The best thing I like about the shop I use, is if I provide anything that isnt conducive with the build, the head mechanic will provide what is better suited and either trade me in what I provided, or add the cost of the correct/better part to the labor fee in the back end.
Camaro SS top end build question 
