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Oil pump

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Old 06-11-2018, 02:12 AM
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Default Oil pump

Just did Heads and cam swap. Still tinkering with cleaning up headbolt holes as Iím paranoid about them and buttoning up everything but I installed a new oil pump and I entirely forgot to pour some oil into the pump before I installed it..So caught up with making sure I didnít drop that dang bolt I entirely forgot. So Iím wondering if I can take oil pressure sensor out of back of valley and pour some motor oil in and if it will make it down to the oil pump? or am I just over worrying about this? Timing cover is already on and sealed up so Im kind of looking for a hack of sorts. Idk if I can get to plug on side of motor like the melling pump video explains due to pulley brackets and space. Or should I just not worry about it and crank it until pressure builds? also itís a 2000 ls1 and the O Ring I pulled off of tube was red and thicker but o ring I put back on was blue and a bit smaller. But from what Iíve read that is the correct o ring. My pickup tube is not recessed.
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Old 06-11-2018, 06:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Lt1slowerbird View Post
Just did Heads and cam swap. Still tinkering with cleaning up headbolt holes as Iím paranoid about them and buttoning up everything but I installed a new oil pump and I entirely forgot to pour some oil into the pump before I installed it..So caught up with making sure I didnít drop that dang bolt I entirely forgot. So Iím wondering if I can take oil pressure sensor out of back of valley and pour some motor oil in and if it will make it down to the oil pump? or am I just over worrying about this? Timing cover is already on and sealed up so Im kind of looking for a hack of sorts. Idk if I can get to plug on side of motor like the melling pump video explains due to pulley brackets and space. Or should I just not worry about it and crank it until pressure builds? also itís a 2000 ls1 and the O Ring I pulled off of tube was red and thicker but o ring I put back on was blue and a bit smaller. But from what Iíve read that is the correct o ring. My pickup tube is not recessed.
Here is what Iíve done/would do. Find a gear oil bottle cap or similar. Make sure it threads onto a 1 quart bottle of your favorite engine oil and also have a 1-2 ft long piece of 3/8 fuel line. I would then pull the front galley plug on the drivers side of the motor and thread the fuel hose into the galley hole. I would then take quart of oil plus cap and stick into other end of hose and push oil into that galley. That will effectively prime the pump.

When 1 quart of oil has been spend remove hose and reinstall galley plug with thread sealer on the threads to 44 ft lbs.
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Old 06-11-2018, 08:44 AM
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I was kind of under the assumption that doing that way the oil had to be pressurized by their nifty little oil primer thatís over 100 bucks. But alright sounds good. I have this cheapo gear oil pump That will probably work good. Thanks man Iíll try that
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Old 06-11-2018, 12:49 PM
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It's preferred to prime the pump by pouring oil in there or at least turning the motor over for a while before firing but if you don't it will most likely be okay and build pressure quickly. Pouring oil into the cam sensor hole wouldn't be a bad plan. Make sure and either put engine assembly lube on the lifter rollers, lifter cups, lifter to rocker cup and rocker tips over the valves etc or pour oil all over everything or both. Don't fire it with things dry in other words.

Pouring oil into the oil pump like mentioned above would be great. Don't necessarily have to pressurize it. I can't count how many oil pumps I have done and I have never pressurized one and I have also never had an issue.
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Old 06-12-2018, 12:24 AM
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Yea I have a light coating of redline on cam. And morels were soaking for a few days in oil and put in trays right out of oil so they should be pretty wet. After putting heads on I planned to leave valve covers off and pour oil across rockers and springs right before startup. The dry cranking i donít understand so much solely because the time of slow cranking it takes. Iíd think any assy lube would be long wiped rather than just firing it and having pressure in a few seconds. But I will definitely attempt to get a quart in through the front galley and see how much I can get into the pressure port. Thank you guys
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Old 06-12-2018, 07:28 AM
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Dont need to. It will have pressure in 2 secs. Done it a bunch of times.
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Old 06-12-2018, 11:03 AM
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Originally Posted by 01ssreda4 View Post
Dont need to. It will have pressure in 2 secs. Done it a bunch of times.
I don't do any priming or anything, if I do new cam or lifters etc I pour oil on them or assembly lube them. But if I tell someone to slap it together and start it their's will be the one time it didn't work lol.
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Old 06-12-2018, 07:26 PM
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I never fill my pumps. After assembly on a build, I prefill oil filter...which I always do, every time I change a filter...and just before the oil pressure sender goes on, which is last thing I do, I force squeeze a quart of oil down the oil pressure sender port. This will make its way to the pump. It takes a while so be patient. Then When I’m ready to fire it, I spin engine over WITHOUT spark plugs in for 10 seconds. This pre-primes oil pump, and allows all air bubbles in the fuel rails to exit through injectors. I ALWAYS have instant oil pressure at first startup using this method.
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Old 06-13-2018, 12:12 PM
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Side note, as for cleaning the threads for the head bolts. I take an old head bolt and grind slits down the length of the threads with a die grinder and make my own thread chaser that way.
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Old 06-13-2018, 12:16 PM
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Hey, why spend when you can make something that works as well, and far cheaper!
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Old 06-13-2018, 01:45 PM
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Originally Posted by G Atsma View Post
Hey, why spend when you can make something that works as well, and far cheaper!
Especially when tool payments are crippling just buying the have to have stuff.
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Old 06-14-2018, 12:22 AM
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As long as you soaked the lifters really good, and weren't stingy with assembly lube on the mains and rods, there's really no need to prime.
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Old 06-14-2018, 07:42 AM
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The arp head bolt tap is so nice though.
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Old 06-14-2018, 10:34 AM
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Originally Posted by 01ssreda4 View Post
The arp head bolt tap is so nice though.
Don't say that, I just paid off a 20k tool truck bill 2 weeks ago and need to stop buying tools for a while!
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Old 06-14-2018, 01:34 PM
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Originally Posted by 00pooterSS View Post
Don't say that, I just paid off a 20k tool truck bill 2 weeks ago and need to stop buying tools for a while!
OweeeÖ.. but a necessary evil... ya gotta have GOOD tools!
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Old 06-14-2018, 05:46 PM
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Originally Posted by G Atsma View Post
OweeeÖ.. but a necessary evil... ya gotta have GOOD tools!
Sad thing is, that was just the last few years.. Had an ongoing bill on the tool truck since around 2002

But yes, to do the job right you need the right stuff to do it. My advice, don't ever become a tech, go be an a/c man or just about any other trade, make the same money and not have to spend 30-40k on tools.
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Old 06-14-2018, 05:49 PM
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Originally Posted by 00pooterSS View Post
Sad thing is, that was just the last few years.. Had an ongoing bill on the tool truck since around 2002

But yes, to do the job right you need the right stuff to do it. My advice, don't ever become a tech, go be an a/c man or just about any other trade, make the same money and not have to spend 30-40k on tools.
Or be a professional steering wheel holder, and not have to buy anything... just drive the companies equipment.
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Old 06-14-2018, 08:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Game ova View Post
Or be a professional steering wheel holder, and not have to buy anything... just drive the companies equipment.
That's what I was getting at. There are many skilled trades that are way better than being a tech, unfortunately it's in my blood.
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Old 06-15-2018, 06:03 AM
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Canít beleive I paid 50 bucks for a thread chaser.. lol but made me feel comfortable hitting the final torque value. For me Iíd rather know itís good and have piece of mind.
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Old 06-15-2018, 01:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Lt1slowerbird View Post
Can’t beleive I paid 50 bucks for a thread chaser.. lol but made me feel comfortable hitting the final torque value. For me I’d rather know it’s good and have piece of mind.
High end tools really do make a difference, and sometimes the peace of mind is more than worth it.


And LOL at the wood block, sadly it's very close to the truth though. What's even more disheartening is my 20 year old (FAR cheaper) craftsman sockets and ratchets hold up better than snap on and some of my matco stuff.
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