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what would cause a stroker to not start when its warm?

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Old Jul 8, 2018 | 01:09 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by tug686spd
Not to drag this thread on anymore than it needs to be but. I have a motor built by a very reputable builder and received no build sheet. Could I have got one if asked, probably? You go to a good shop for there knowledge and experience. Clearances and parts combinations is kind of their trade secret.
Thankyou!
Old Jul 8, 2018 | 01:10 PM
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Why don't you have a Mod close this thread and make us both happy.....
Old Jul 8, 2018 | 03:13 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by jenfred10
Why don't you have a Mod close this thread and make us both happy.....
or just stop checking back lol. im over it, but wouldn't mind you telling my why you texted me and said you changed out the joe gibbs break in oil right away for conventional, then changed it about 10 times in 650 miles......thats a little odd. always thought most used some sort of break in oil/additive for the first 500, then conventional afterwards.
Old Jul 8, 2018 | 04:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Floorman279
or just stop checking back lol. im over it, but wouldn't mind you telling my why you texted me and said you changed out the joe gibbs break in oil right away for conventional, then changed it about 10 times in 650 miles......thats a little odd. always thought most used some sort of break in oil/additive for the first 500, then conventional afterwards.
Well, that's your lack of knowledge again! For starters........everyone has they're opinions on break in oil......many use conventional oil for break in. Most agree just DON'T use synthetic oil until at least 1000-1500 miles.
I did NOT text you telling you I changed the Joe Gibbs break in oil right away and have no clue where you got that from? As a matter of fact after the Joe gibbs , I put in Edelbrock break in oil.
after doing more research, I came across a website with oil tests ( maybe someone Will have the link) according to the tests.....break in oil doesn't leave much protection for the engine.......so I switched to good quality conventional oil.......YES., I changed oil and good quality FILTERS over 10 times the first 650 miles which is where I am at now.
I also cut open every filter inspecting for metal particles!
I also put fresh oil in it before it sits over the winter......I also primed the engine before first start up!
These are all things that MANY people do on big buck builds especially on this website......as they will tell you....you can't change the oil too much!!

It's kind of sad I'm getting **** on for doing things the CORRECT way! I learned this stuff years ago.......now you know too! This information is all over this site too and will back me up. These are the things you should be looking at when buying used
i have a while trapped keeper dedicated too this car with reciepts, phone numbers, etc. I also have 3 GM service manuals........everything has been done right!
Old Jul 8, 2018 | 05:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Floorman279
or just stop checking back lol. im over it, but wouldn't mind you telling my why you texted me and said you changed out the joe gibbs break in oil right away for conventional, then changed it about 10 times in 650 miles......thats a little odd. always thought most used some sort of break in oil/additive for the first 500, then conventional afterwards.
I may know what your talking about now.......although I'm pretty sure it was over the phone.

For everyone reading this.....first start up was ran on Ramos to idle for 10-15min to warm it up. Upon checking fluids, I noticed coolant going down and oil going up a hair. I drained some oil to verify and yes there was some coolant in the oil.
i pulled the engine and sent it back to DRM (not they're fault) and they did a complete teardown and checked everything and found one of my brand new PRC 285 c.f. Heads had a crack in the casting!
Doug got TSP to send a new head and dyno'd and broke the motor in for me.......I have a nice bill/receipt to prove this!
My oil changing has nothing to do with this....neither does my priming of the engineengine or using a torque wrench and manuals if you get my point?




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