AFR 225 Info...
07-08-2004, 07:16 PM
#21
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Running a 224/224 .563 114lsa cam and wondering whats the best compression ratio to run with the 205's on the street?
I've heard 11.3 to one? is there any downside to running the slightly more expensive dual spring setup other than the few dollars cost on such a mild cam?
Thanks and great writeup..Really nailed the decision for the 205's vs. 225's for me. I don't want a dyno queen on this baby cam setup I have. I want it to run...
Tony your insight is greatly appreciated.
I've heard 11.3 to one? is there any downside to running the slightly more expensive dual spring setup other than the few dollars cost on such a mild cam?
Thanks and great writeup..Really nailed the decision for the 205's vs. 225's for me. I don't want a dyno queen on this baby cam setup I have. I want it to run...
Tony your insight is greatly appreciated.
07-08-2004, 10:20 PM
#24
11.3 should work just fine with 94 octane and a good tune.
Motor's run more efficent with higher compression and 10.8-11.3 is a good compression to run NA for good horsepower on 93 octane.
LG motorsports almost always takes their H/C motor's to 11.0-11.25:1 CR.
Motor's run more efficent with higher compression and 10.8-11.3 is a good compression to run NA for good horsepower on 93 octane.
LG motorsports almost always takes their H/C motor's to 11.0-11.25:1 CR.
07-08-2004, 11:31 PM
#27
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these next few months ought to be very interesting. I can't wait to see some of the results out in the public, both the 205 and 225. I bet we're going to see some awesome numbers, even from the 205s and smallish cams.
I'd like to pull the trigger next spring
I'd like to pull the trigger next spring
07-09-2004, 09:03 AM
#28
Originally Posted by J-Rod
No, I meant that a 205 is just where you need it to be out of the box.
There are a few things that you might do to it, but we are not talking about much grinding at all. Maybe just a bit of cleanup. If you go start hogging out runner, you will end up with a head that is a good paperweight, or something that looks good on a bench but is WAY down on power...
Head porters are often like artists. They have certain "features" to the way they do a port. I think this will become apparent when certain folks learn the lesson the hard way and they apply those "features" to a head and it looks good on the bench and the heads won't make power...
All I will say is that there are lots of places to remove material out of a port. You can remove material out of the wrong places and make a head that looks good on a bench but won't make power. A bench is atool, but no the be all or end all in what works. There are some truly gifted folks out there who understand how air "moves" and how to direct it through a port. Thse are the guys who if they touch your heads can make more power for you...
Then there are the other guys who try real hard and mean well, but... Well, you get the idea.
There are a few things that you might do to it, but we are not talking about much grinding at all. Maybe just a bit of cleanup. If you go start hogging out runner, you will end up with a head that is a good paperweight, or something that looks good on a bench but is WAY down on power...
Head porters are often like artists. They have certain "features" to the way they do a port. I think this will become apparent when certain folks learn the lesson the hard way and they apply those "features" to a head and it looks good on the bench and the heads won't make power...
All I will say is that there are lots of places to remove material out of a port. You can remove material out of the wrong places and make a head that looks good on a bench but won't make power. A bench is atool, but no the be all or end all in what works. There are some truly gifted folks out there who understand how air "moves" and how to direct it through a port. Thse are the guys who if they touch your heads can make more power for you...
Then there are the other guys who try real hard and mean well, but... Well, you get the idea.
07-09-2004, 09:43 AM
#29
6600 rpm clutch dump of death Administrator
Originally Posted by PewterZ28
Now I'm following you. Thanks!
Don't sweat your static compression. Look at your DCR... Thats going to tell you whethere or not it will ping.
Think about it this way. If you have a small cam with no overalap and X compression, it going to be different than the same compression in a big cam motor with lots of overlap bleeding off cylinder pressure.
07-09-2004, 09:33 PM
#30
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So after reading this...
The 205 Guy”
If you are looking to build a street/strip car with a camshaft anywhere in the 220's @ .050 or milder, and you want to place the emphasis on STREET (at the cost of some PEAK Hp #'s), the 205 is a better choice. If you are concerned with fuel economy and low speed part throttle "SOTP", the 205 is the right choice. And lets not forget that even with a mild cam that provides a “stealthy” idle, great drivability, and lots of good low and middle RPM performance, you still have the ability to approach 450 HP at the tire. If you want more power and have the money to spend and buy every "bolt-on" in the book, you have the potential to make over 470 HP at the wheel even with the "small" 205's and conservative cam timing. With LOTS of dyno time, my best recorded run has been 481 RWHP SAE corrected
and realizing this fits exactly what I am looking for...with just swapping heads....and keeping all the rest of my existing mods....(having 93 octane readily available)
whats the right compression for the 205 AFR a 224/224 .563 114lsa cam?
Any suggestions on what exactly to order?
Thanks
JB
The 205 Guy”
If you are looking to build a street/strip car with a camshaft anywhere in the 220's @ .050 or milder, and you want to place the emphasis on STREET (at the cost of some PEAK Hp #'s), the 205 is a better choice. If you are concerned with fuel economy and low speed part throttle "SOTP", the 205 is the right choice. And lets not forget that even with a mild cam that provides a “stealthy” idle, great drivability, and lots of good low and middle RPM performance, you still have the ability to approach 450 HP at the tire. If you want more power and have the money to spend and buy every "bolt-on" in the book, you have the potential to make over 470 HP at the wheel even with the "small" 205's and conservative cam timing. With LOTS of dyno time, my best recorded run has been 481 RWHP SAE corrected
and realizing this fits exactly what I am looking for...with just swapping heads....and keeping all the rest of my existing mods....(having 93 octane readily available)
whats the right compression for the 205 AFR a 224/224 .563 114lsa cam?
Any suggestions on what exactly to order?
Thanks
JB
Last edited by JBsC5; 07-09-2004 at 09:40 PM.
07-10-2004, 01:20 AM
#31
Originally Posted by JBsC5
So after reading this...
The 205 Guy”
If you are looking to build a street/strip car with a camshaft anywhere in the 220's @ .050 or milder, and you want to place the emphasis on STREET (at the cost of some PEAK Hp #'s), the 205 is a better choice. If you are concerned with fuel economy and low speed part throttle "SOTP", the 205 is the right choice. And lets not forget that even with a mild cam that provides a “stealthy” idle, great drivability, and lots of good low and middle RPM performance, you still have the ability to approach 450 HP at the tire. If you want more power and have the money to spend and buy every "bolt-on" in the book, you have the potential to make over 470 HP at the wheel even with the "small" 205's and conservative cam timing. With LOTS of dyno time, my best recorded run has been 481 RWHP SAE corrected
and realizing this fits exactly what I am looking for...with just swapping heads....and keeping all the rest of my existing mods....(having 93 octane readily available)
whats the right compression for the 205 AFR a 224/224 .563 114lsa cam?
Any suggestions on what exactly to order?
Thanks
JB
The 205 Guy”
If you are looking to build a street/strip car with a camshaft anywhere in the 220's @ .050 or milder, and you want to place the emphasis on STREET (at the cost of some PEAK Hp #'s), the 205 is a better choice. If you are concerned with fuel economy and low speed part throttle "SOTP", the 205 is the right choice. And lets not forget that even with a mild cam that provides a “stealthy” idle, great drivability, and lots of good low and middle RPM performance, you still have the ability to approach 450 HP at the tire. If you want more power and have the money to spend and buy every "bolt-on" in the book, you have the potential to make over 470 HP at the wheel even with the "small" 205's and conservative cam timing. With LOTS of dyno time, my best recorded run has been 481 RWHP SAE corrected
and realizing this fits exactly what I am looking for...with just swapping heads....and keeping all the rest of my existing mods....(having 93 octane readily available)
whats the right compression for the 205 AFR a 224/224 .563 114lsa cam?
Any suggestions on what exactly to order?
Thanks
JB
JB...
I see you live in the land of 93 octane premium....11 to 1 is a no brainer, and with the higher octane, you won't need the "perfect" tune to stay out of detonation. Mill the heads to around 62 cc's and you will be in great shape.
Tony M.
07-10-2004, 11:35 PM
#38
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Originally Posted by verbs
Tony, what would be the after affect of running someone else's CNC program on your bare casting?
A big *** paper weight that flow like mad and makes absolutely no power
07-11-2004, 02:14 PM
#39
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what are the 225 heads flowing out off the box right now? I've seen the 205's ,they look sweet. Since Im a turbo 427 car I guess Im going to wait for the 225's. Im still going to bye a set of the 205's for my SS with a stealthy cam and call it good. Thanks for the
