rj678

Alright so I've been swapping over my heads cam intake and everything was going perfectly smooth then I got to the cam retainer and the 4 counter sunk t40 bolts feel like they were put in by a 400 pound gorilla and I stripped them out... been doing research for a few hours and not a bunch of good answers but I did find people saying extractors like this work really well but the only problem is they're literally in no stores and none of my buddies have them and I need to get these bolts out ASAP because the motor is in the car and I need to get it put back together and these bolts have my project at a stand still. So does anybody have any other methods of removing these or am I just going to have to wait for the extractors to come in the mail.

99 2500

I had this same thing happen with one of the counter sink retainer bolt, what I did was hammer a T-45 into the stripped bolt and gently turned it out with a half inch ratchet. I think between the shock of the hammer blows and the bigger ratchet made it come with no problems.

rj678

I'll try that real quick I'm just worried about the tool breaking in the bolt

vettenuts

iTrader: (4)

Are the installed with Loctite?

rj678

I'm guessing they are because it's a motor with 500 miles on it and everything's brand new either that or extremely over torqued

slogo

Did you try using a torch? Someone may have used the wrong loctite, after you find something to get a good bite on the bolt use a torch and heat that bolt, it
loosens the loctite.

rj678

Ya I'm about to go to harbor freight they have some extractors for "broken nipples" and they look really similar to the ones in the picture then I'll heat them up with my propane torch

jayyk31

iTrader: (2)

Those Torx bolts SUCK! Feels like this happens a lot

rj678

Ya my buddy that works at a performance LS shop says they're the worst thing ever and he ends up breaking 4 or 5 bits or strips them out before they come out... you'd think someone would make an aftermarket solution to this LOL

JoeNova

I just went through this a few days ago.

Just drilled a hole down the center of them, put a Phillips screwdriver in and hit it with a hammer to shock the threads loose, and used an easy out. They popped right out, all of them were out in probably 7-8 minutes.

vettenuts

iTrader: (4)

That's why I never went to the new cam plate design. The old design with hex head bolts is still available, just not from GM. Once you get them out, I would get the older design plate.

rj678

Alright for all those who care and anybody that sees this thread in the future with the same problem, I was finally able to get all 4 of the countersunk bolts out after a ton of stress and time. The way I did it was take a air cutoff wheel and cut a line in the head of the bolts like sothen after that, I just too a big *** punch (a chisel would probably work too) and hammered them in the direction to loosen them out. The impact from hammering it is probably what helped them break free. After breaking them lose I just kept tapping them out with the punch until about 2 full turns, then I took vise grips to grab onto the head and twist them out. This way probably took me a little over an hour for all 4 of the bolts so you'll need some patience, but in the end it works pretty well. When I took the bolts out I completely expected there to be red loctite in them but there was nothing even on them so I figure the guy who put the motor together just took a ratchet and tightened them way too hard. This way basically ruins your retainer plate so you'll need all new bolts and a new plate. I ended up buying a plate and bolt kit off of summit for pretty cheap if you're going to do this though make sure to cover all the holes in your engine because small metal partials get EVERYWHERE, but good luck to anyone that runs into this problem because I know it's pretty damn common.

BlwnLs1GTO

iTrader: (12)

As already mentioned, an easy out would have removed those bolts in no time. Slight drilling may have been needed depending on stripped they were. But a good set of Easy Outs is something everybody should have in their toolbox.

I'm glad you got them out, but Home Depot and Lowes sell these tools. They won't break either.

TIP: Sometimes you have the take the largest size that barely fits in the stripped section and lightly tap it into the bolt. That way it doesn't bottom out and just strip it more.

00pooterSS

iTrader: (40)

I deal with torx bolts all the time in my profession, the key is to have high quality bits and to make sure they are fully seated down into the fastener and you keep pressure down into the fastener when you loosen or tighten them, if you don't they will easily strip. They were hell for a while until I got a good matco set of bits and took my time.

But an air chisel with a freshly sharpened chisel bit is your best friend in these situations. I'm a tech so I run into funky bolts a lot. With the air chisel this would have been about a 2 minute venture. A billion times easier than jacking with ease outs. I've had to find the easiest and best ways to do this since I do it for a living and I'll grab the air chisel long before I even think of ease outs.

What you did with the grinder wheel and chisel is also a great way to get them out, if you have air get an air chisel and you wont need to grind on them, just pop them a couple light times and let the bit dig in a hair, then go to town and turn them out.

rj678

I'm also a technician but my air hammer was at the shop and I didn't feel like driving all the way out there on my days off plus my chisel bits are way too beat up or just too big to do what I wanted so I just kinda worked with what I had. I do exactly what you said with stripped out oil drain plugs that are torx so I got the idea to do it to the cam retainer bolts. Just thought I'd share what I did because I didn't see that method while I was searching for a solution.

jaxcam02

iTrader: (1)

Damn I didn't even know there was a plate with torx bolts. Guess I got lucky and got a kit that used the hex bolts. Phew.

rj678

Ya I believe all the ls1s got the early plate design with hex bolts and gm even days when replacing the hex plate design to use the newer torx style...stupid right

99blkfrc99

00pooterSS

iTrader: (40)

Your chisel bits are too beat up? You gotta bench grinder!? Fix them bastards lol. Man I hear ya, I've pretty much given up side work because I hate getting into a situation like you did and not having my good tools. I have plenty at home but it's nothing like my setup at the shop.

I'm fortunate I don't have to change oil, what cars have torx bits for oil drain plugs?

I use your method of cutting a slot when I have to remove mcguard wheel locks, they're so hard the wad up the chisel bit and can't get em off unless I cut a groove in them for the bit to bite on.

rj678

Right who would have thought I woulda needed an air chisel to do a H/C/I swap on a fresh 347, I swear I'm always needing tools I never thought I'd need at home that are at the shop. I believe some Audis have the torx drain plugs but I've had to chisel one out of an older porsche cayenne (good ol German over engineering) before so that was fun. But I never thought of doing that for the McGuard locks before that's a good idea lol, but I've also not run into many of them stripped out.