Torque to yield bolt removal
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2018
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
From: California
Torque to yield bolt removal I broke off a torque to yield bolt in a 2004 , 5.3 L in its block, over torqued it .....first time in 40 + years ...ie not happy! Need help extracting
If it broke from over torquing and not cross threading it should thread out easily. A reverse drill bit would be your best friend right now, as soon as the bit grabs it will unscrew the bolt.
Or you can try to rotate it with a pic or tiny screw driver.
Or you can try to rotate it with a pic or tiny screw driver.
Trending Topics
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 711
Likes: 6
From: PNW
This is the 2nd thread I've seen posted in less than 2 weeks, I can't imagine how often this actually happens but they just don't tell anyone about it. Why does it take so long for people to get the hint? I mean seriously, what is your people's deal?
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...ic-inside.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...ic-inside.html
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
Gas Monkey Built a 6-Wheel Ferrari Testarossa With a Corvette LT4 Engine
Verdad Gallardo
7 Most Reliable High-Performance Engines GM Has Ever Built
Verdad Gallardo
Amazing '71 Camaro Restomod Is Modern Muscle Car Under the Skin
Verdad Gallardo
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
FWIW I've taken reused tty headbolts to 19 psi and 10.99 @ 133 spinning hard on every shift. Metallurgy analysis on stock bolts, china studs and arp studs has proven the stock bolts have a higher yield than anything else. The thread is here on ls1 tech if you wanna dig it up.
OP you clean the threads in the block? they are blind holes so any **** from cleaning the motor gets trapped in there. Make a thread chaser by putting a catch groove in an old headbolt and use acetone or brake cleaner and blow it out with compressed air. test thread the bolt in dry. Thin film of motor oil on the threads, moly assembly lube under the head. I can't even count the number of times I've done this. I torque to 40 and then 75 ft lbs in sequence and use copper spray on the stock reused gaskets.
OP you clean the threads in the block? they are blind holes so any **** from cleaning the motor gets trapped in there. Make a thread chaser by putting a catch groove in an old headbolt and use acetone or brake cleaner and blow it out with compressed air. test thread the bolt in dry. Thin film of motor oil on the threads, moly assembly lube under the head. I can't even count the number of times I've done this. I torque to 40 and then 75 ft lbs in sequence and use copper spray on the stock reused gaskets.
FWIW I've taken reused tty headbolts to 19 psi and 10.99 @ 133 spinning hard on every shift. Metallurgy analysis on stock bolts, china studs and arp studs has proven the stock bolts have a higher yield than anything else. The thread is here on ls1 tech if you wanna dig it up.
OP you clean the threads in the block? they are blind holes so any **** from cleaning the motor gets trapped in there. Make a thread chaser by putting a catch groove in an old headbolt and use acetone or brake cleaner and blow it out with compressed air. test thread the bolt in dry. Thin film of motor oil on the threads, moly assembly lube under the head. I can't even count the number of times I've done this. I torque to 40 and then 75 ft lbs in sequence and use copper spray on the stock reused gaskets.
OP you clean the threads in the block? they are blind holes so any **** from cleaning the motor gets trapped in there. Make a thread chaser by putting a catch groove in an old headbolt and use acetone or brake cleaner and blow it out with compressed air. test thread the bolt in dry. Thin film of motor oil on the threads, moly assembly lube under the head. I can't even count the number of times I've done this. I torque to 40 and then 75 ft lbs in sequence and use copper spray on the stock reused gaskets.
Also the Jegs Bolt kit is made in the USA.
Non-Sponsor Soliciting Policy
Again not as nice as the ARP Bolt kit, but the price is kinder and still made in the USA for both. Key on either set for me was the re-usable factor vs new GM TTY if I pull heads down the road at some point.
I have not seen the link referenced, so YMMV.
Last edited by KCS; Aug 3, 2018 at 12:32 PM. Reason: Non Sponsor Link Removed
Just as a point of clarity Studs <> Bolts.
Also the Jegs Bolt kit is made in the USA.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/455077-non-sponsor-soliciting-policy.html"]Non-Sponsor Soliciting Policy[/url]
Again not as nice as the ARP Bolt kit, but the price is kinder and still made in the USA for both. Key on either set for me was the re-usable factor vs new GM TTY if I pull heads down the road at some point.
I have not seen the link referenced, so YMMV.
I have no idea what you're trying to say or what ymmv means.
But here's that thread link
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...ngth-test.html
I have no idea what you're trying to say or what ymmv means.
But here's that thread link
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...ngth-test.html
But here's that thread link
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...ngth-test.html
The YMMV = Your Mileage May Vary. Really that is just saying there are many ways to get these LSs to produce ridiculous HP from JY trash to $hiny ways. IMO even a JY build deserves some ARP love on fasteners, the couple hundred is good piece of mind. Especially ARP header bolts!
Interesting read on the stud/bolt data. Really de-legitimatizes the need for the China Studs. I wish the study included the ARP Bolts as well.
The YMMV = Your Mileage May Vary. Really that is just saying there are many ways to get these LSs to produce ridiculous HP from JY trash to $hiny ways. IMO even a JY build deserves some ARP love on fasteners, the couple hundred is good piece of mind. Especially ARP header bolts!
The YMMV = Your Mileage May Vary. Really that is just saying there are many ways to get these LSs to produce ridiculous HP from JY trash to $hiny ways. IMO even a JY build deserves some ARP love on fasteners, the couple hundred is good piece of mind. Especially ARP header bolts!
I think I saw something once that showed the arp head bolts were pretty similar in strength to the tty oem bolt.
Either way, after seeing the tensile test and knowing what people are doing on stock bolts, I don't see much of a need for the ARP bolts, reusable is nice, but the decision comes down to how often you think you'll be pulling the heads. TTY bolt sets are like $30 if I recall correctly, ARP bolts are 5 times that, studs are 10 times that. So if you're gonna pull the heads that many times it worth it, if not, then it's a to each their own thing.
The tensile test is for the strength of the alloy itself, so it doesn’t mater if its a bolt or stud. The test TSP had performed very clearly shows the ARP alloy is higher in strength compared to the OEM bolt and the chinese stud.
Please correct that if it's wrong.
TECH Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 22,303
Likes: 3,619
From: Central Cal.
I think the thing about studs vs. bolts is the type of force imposed on them. A stud is put in finger tight. then the nut tightened onto the stud. There is not the torsional force of tightening the bolt into a long thread in the block, PLUS the friction between the bolt head and the head surface, just the relatively short nut onto the stud. The stud has more of a linear pull than a bolt.