I broke off a torque to yield bolt in a 2004 , 5.3 L in its block, over torqued it .....first time in 40 + years ...ie not happy! Need help extracting

 

If it broke from over torquing and not cross threading it should thread out easily. A reverse drill bit would be your best friend right now, as soon as the bit grabs it will unscrew the bolt.

Or you can try to rotate it with a pic or tiny screw driver.

 

Long bolt or short bolt? If it's a short bolt, I wouldn't worry about it.

 

How deep into the block is the break?

 

 

How many of these stories do we have to see before you people get the hint -

TTY BOLTS ARE ONE TIME USE.
Stop being cheap asses and stop reading sloppy mechanics. Buy new bolts.

 

Yeah, the JEGS brand bolts are cheap and easy. Not as sexy as ARP, but they do the job. Or just buy new TTY stock bolts. Any of these solutions are cheaper than messing with a broken bolt down the road.

 

This is the 2nd thread I've seen posted in less than 2 weeks, I can't imagine how often this actually happens but they just don't tell anyone about it. Why does it take so long for people to get the hint? I mean seriously, what is your people's deal?

https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...ic-inside.html

 

Where does the OP say that it was a used bolt?

 

Yup, NOWHERE does it say the bolt was used. So holster the gun, Lugnut….

 

FWIW I've taken reused tty headbolts to 19 psi and 10.99 @ 133 spinning hard on every shift. Metallurgy analysis on stock bolts, china studs and arp studs has proven the stock bolts have a higher yield than anything else. The thread is here on ls1 tech if you wanna dig it up.

OP you clean the threads in the block? they are blind holes so any **** from cleaning the motor gets trapped in there. Make a thread chaser by putting a catch groove in an old headbolt and use acetone or brake cleaner and blow it out with compressed air. test thread the bolt in dry. Thin film of motor oil on the threads, moly assembly lube under the head. I can't even count the number of times I've done this. I torque to 40 and then 75 ft lbs in sequence and use copper spray on the stock reused gaskets.

 

I've linked that thread several times but people want to still use cheap chinese studs etc..

 

 

I have no idea what you're trying to say or what ymmv means.

But here's that thread link

https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...ngth-test.html

 

Interesting read on the stud/bolt data. Really de-legitimatizes the need for the China Studs. I wish the study included the ARP Bolts as well.

The YMMV = Your Mileage May Vary. Really that is just saying there are many ways to get these LSs to produce ridiculous HP from JY trash to $hiny ways. IMO even a JY build deserves some ARP love on fasteners, the couple hundred is good piece of mind. Especially ARP header bolts!

 

I think I saw something once that showed the arp head bolts were pretty similar in strength to the tty oem bolt.

Either way, after seeing the tensile test and knowing what people are doing on stock bolts, I don't see much of a need for the ARP bolts, reusable is nice, but the decision comes down to how often you think you'll be pulling the heads. TTY bolt sets are like $30 if I recall correctly, ARP bolts are 5 times that, studs are 10 times that. So if you're gonna pull the heads that many times it worth it, if not, then it's a to each their own thing.

 

 

That's what I was unsure of, I figured the bolts would be as strong as the studs, but I feel like I saw a test where someone tested the ARP bolts and studs and the studs had a higher tensile strength, which made me think they were made from different material.

Please correct that if it's wrong.

 

I think the thing about studs vs. bolts is the type of force imposed on them. A stud is put in finger tight. then the nut tightened onto the stud. There is not the torsional force of tightening the bolt into a long thread in the block, PLUS the friction between the bolt head and the head surface, just the relatively short nut onto the stud. The stud has more of a linear pull than a bolt.