jon1440

I purchased a 6.0 gen 3 and currently honing it for new rings. The pistons had alot of carbon build up on top and in the ring lands. It appeared the oil rings quite doing there job and was getting blow by. Surprisingly the pistons look good now after cleaning them with hardly any wear and the cylinders still had the original hatch markings. What I'm curious about is the slight wearing at the top and bottom of the cylinders. I guess I could call it a ridge but very slight. In fact there are two. Which seems strange. As if the both rings are wearing the cylinder. One right above the other. I've seen ridges on a SBC but never experienced a Gen 3 ridge. I do know the finish hone is a made with a fine grit to match my rings. I would assume the smoother finish would create a less abrupt ridge. I have been honing the cylinders and ever so slowly the markings are disappearing. I do understand that I can in no way do a perfect hone job by hand. A machine operated hone job surely gets it better. I have already went through the cylinders and removed most of the markings. I've still yet to finish up with the fine grit. Which should remove a little more. Has anyone ran an engine with slight wear markings in the cylinders and not have problems with ring seal and compression? Or do I just keep honing it until the markings disappear? And the next question would be, how much material is being removed by honing?

NHRAFORMULA00

iTrader: (2)

It needs to go to a machine shop and checked each cylinder for size. You are more than likely going to need new pistons and rings.

Kawabuggy

iTrader: (1)

I've heard stories of guys just throwing new rings into an engine and just Red Scotch Brite'ing the cylinder walls, and they ran just fine. You know there was some wear, and taper in those cylinders, but the engines still ran really well. On the other hand.. Do you have a dial bore gauge? Can you check the cylinders for taper, and out-of-round? If it were mine, I'd hone it until the rings marks are gone, then measure for specs. If it's out too far, then you can still take it to a machine shop and fix it. Or, if your hone job does not take out too much material, and the cylinders are not too tapered, or out-of-round, then you can run it as is. Clear as mud right? Ultimately it is your decision. If you can't measure the bores with the right tool, it's better to hand it off to a machine shop.