Here is my guide on building the LS1 engine.
First time i built a LSx so please check my progress and let me know if i make mistakes. If not i hope it will help other new people like me.
It will be specific for Corvette C3 LS swap.

There are also many tips i have picked up and the best value for money upgrades.
Here is a good guide i used. Buy the hard copy as its a great resource
https://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/...010%29_BBS.pdf

Here is the part list - best value for money budget build LS1
2004/5 LS1 with 241 heads
LS2 timing chain
LS2 lifter tray
LS7 lifters
LS6 high flow oil pump
LS3 rod bolts
LS6 intake and TB
Straub Technologies Trunion Upgrade Kit with new bolts
PAC 1219x springs
LS1 LS3 LS6 viton valve seals .313" X 500" top hat valve stem seals
Comp Cams 774-16 valve spring retainers
WS6 store hot cam 218/227 .600/.600 112+2 LSA

GM MLS headgaskets
GM cam retainer plate seal
GM valley cover seals and bolt grommets
GM front and rear cover seals
GM water pump seals
GM head bolts
GM crank bolt

I will need to order push rods as the LS7 lifter seat are more recessed and i milled the heads 25 thou.
Most likely will be 7.350" or 7.325"

Machine work done to engine

Was $1000 AUD all up to

Clean parts $150
Hone block $160
Thread water pump $50
Install and supply cam bearings $150
Valve job, install new valve seals, install springs and check tension $450
Mill heads 25 thou $50


I will upload my spreadsheet as a to do list


Here is my block back from being cleaned from engine machinist


Before this is forgotten install the oil barbell. Add a little running in oil to the o-ring which goes in last.


I got the cam bearings installed as i didnt have the tool for it. I have a 2004 LS1 but a later year model that required later model bearings. I will add model number later.

Add cam lube to the cam bearings before installing the cam



Use cam lube not engine assembly lube or oil for the cam. Install on the cam lobes that sit on the bearings only. This is so you can guide the cam in and not damage the cam bearings without smearing cam lube everywhere.

Once the cam is installed then use a brush and apply cam lube to the other cam lobes.

Install the crank bearings dry. No need to add anything to the underside of them. The middle one is the larger one. Make sure the oil holes line up correctly.
Now add engine assembly lube to the crank bearings and main caps




Carefully lower the crank into position.
Make sure the crank can spin before installing the main caps.



Tap the main caps down, hitting them with a rubber mallet from one side to another and then finally in the middle.
Apply forward pressure to the crankshaft as the main studs and bolts are hand tightened. Only use running in oil on these bolts. No loctite.


I installed the side main cap bolts with some copper sealant on the underside head of the bolts. I did them up hand tight before torquing the main studs and bolts.
If you have ARP assembly lube that could be used instead. No locktite on these bolts.


Follow the torque guide and then use a degree torque gauge with breaker bar to finish the job. Make sure the gauge alan key looking handle is resting against something or have someone help.


Mark the bolts as you tighten them so you know they are done. You cant check with torque gauge when using the degree indicator !\
Start from the middle and work your way out in a spiral pattern


Using a dial gauge check the end play of the crank.

 

Now to check the clearing of the piston rings.
Install a top compression ring (chrome moly one) and check the clearance. Mine was 0.39 thou
Install a 2nd compression ring (black one) and check clearance.Mine was 0.34 thou




I replaced the rod bolts with LS3 ( GM11570662 )


Use a old rod bolt to knock out the old bolt bearing. Place a socket under the cap , install old rod bolt and knock out the bearing.


Use some multigrips to remove the old bearing.


Pistons were cleaned along side the block and crank.
Here is a tip. REMOVE THE PISTON RINGS BEFORE YOU GET THE CLEANED.. As you guessed i forgot to and had to spend more time cleaning the ring seats.
The pistons came up really nice, pretty much new. I then used scotch guard to clean any other residue left.
These are gen 4 pistons with floating wrist pins. You can tell by the square cut of the rod cap and the circlip on the wrist pin of the rod.


Ring seats cleaned by hand (using a old thin oiler ring, degreaser and kerosine)



Check the rod can slid without effort side to side on the wrist pin. Also check the rod can spin on the wrist pin with it staying in one place.
If there is any resistance use some scotch guard to clean the wrist pin.


When installing the new rings use this guide.
Have the hole on the top of the piston facing forward
Top chrome moly ring (shiny silver one) is at 3pm position.
Bottom compression ring (black one) is at 9pm.
Oil spring ends meet in the middle of the left hand side piston skirt
Top oilier ring at 7pm
Bottom oilier ring at 11pm


Piston facing front
Compression rings at 3 and 9pm


oilier spring in middle of skirt (left hand side)


bottom oilier ring at 11pm


top oilier ring at 7pm


Apply engine assembly lube on the rod bearings.
Make sure the pistons are installed from same cylinder they came out of, and the dot on the piston are facing forward.
Use a ring compressor tool and leave an inch of the piston skirt so it can guide the piston into the cylinder.
Tap on the piston head with the rubber end of a hammer. Have someone watch and guide the rod through the bore as you tap it through.




Now install the matching rod cap and new rod bolts. Only running in oil is used, put on the threads and under the bolt head.


Now use feeler gauges to measure piston clearance



My clearance was 4 thou


Pistons, Rods, Cam, Crank all in !

 

Remember to add the cam retainer plate. Use blue loctite on thread and under the head.
Top two bolts are longer than the third bottom bolt.
Apply a little running in oil to the seal of the plate.


I used a LS2 chain which is single row but heavy duty and thicker than LS1 oem.
Install cam gear, blue loctite on bolts and under head of bolt.
Rotate crank so dot is at 12 o'clock position. Then make sure the cam gear dot is at 6pm so they are facing each other.
This is done before bolts are put in.



Check endplay of the cam by pushing the cam gear towards then engine and set dial indicator at 0.
Then push the cam from backside of engine and see how much end play there is.



Mine is 5.5 thou.


Next step is installing oil pickup tube and oil pump.
I am waiting for my oil pickup tube to arrive before i go further.
I will pack the pump with vaseline before installing.


Meanwhile im making a front cover installer tool with a $2.50 aud part and a empty stick tape roll... Updates to come

 

Good stuff! There will be those who might say "we know all this already", but there are many around here who will learn from this.
I thank you for them!

 

by front case....you mean front cover ?

 

Thank you ! I learn by doing. So making this guide will help me know it better. And be a reference of the engine in my car.
There is alot of info but i have not found it before all in one place. Like being able to use LS3 rod bolts which are also used on LSA engine. That is good enough for most peoples power.

It will also be good if people see i make a mistake or suggest i do something another way.


​​​​​​​Yep, fixed

 

Subscribed. Not building an engine - but one day probably.

 

Next step is oil pump.
Mount it on crank with blue loctite on the bolts and heads and line up the bolt holes and do hand tight.
Remove the front pump cover.
Use engine assembly tube or Vaseline to pack the gears, oil pickup area. It will help keep the gears in place and make pump easier to reinstall.




Re-install the pump cover bolts (9 ft lb)
Now turn over the engine a few times to centre the oil pump
Tighten the oil pump bolts a little tighter and turn over the engine some more.
Finally torque the pump bolts to 18ft lb

Also install the windage tray with all nuts (using running in oil on them) bar the one the oil pickup tube sits on. Do them up hand tight.



Now oil the o-ring, insert the oil pickup tube straight on.


Add the oil pickup tube nut on the windage tray.


Install the oil pickup girdle while adding blue loctite on the bolts.
Torque the oil pickup pump bolts before the windage tray nuts.


The girdle i used above was off ebay. They sent the wrong size bolts and the holes are too big for the right ones. It should not matter when using loctite.
I found this one later on from lsx innovations that uses much better design and quality. It was pretty much the same price. I recommend getting this one instead. I have used alot of their products and they have great customer service.



Before you install the oilpan if your oilpan does not have a provision for oil tube then you need to punch the block dipstick tube hole out.




Next step is to install the oil pan and gasket.

Here is what it looks like inside



Do the pan bolts up hand tight. You need to make sure the oil pan gasket holes will line up for the front and rear covers.
I would recommend testing the front and rear cover before you put the seals on and checking the bolt holes line up with the oil pan gasket.
I had issues with the rear cover..

Once you know the oil pan gasket is lined up and the pan is flush with the block then add some RTV to the corners and torque down the pan.

Front timing cover
This is the 40mmx32mm $4 part with sticky tape roll. it was PERFECT for aligning the case. Your welcome, just saved you guys $100 on case aligning tools...



Install the tool on the crank
Remember the gasket ! Add some RTV on the corners


I had to redo this due to gasket not aligning thus the recommendation above.. But once you know its lined up you can slide the cover on with RTV (the oil pan will be torqued down) so it will sit flush with the block.



Use running in oil on the bolts and heads then torque up.


Side shot of the engine and pan.


Rear timing cover
You should have already test fitted the rear case and made sure oil gasket lines up.
Now make sure the rear cover gasket lines up correctly.


Make sure the seal goes in with the "this side faces up".
Then use the old seal ontop to tap in the seal until its virtually flush with the rear of the cover.


This is how much you get in hand tight before you need to tap it in the rest of the way.


Add RTV to the bottom corners and hand tighten the bolts (apply running in oil to bolt and head) until the cover sits flat agianst the block.
Then you can check the 2 long oil pan bolts line up through the gasket and into the cover.
Once you get the 2 long bolts into the cover you can then torque the rear cover and then finish off the oil pan bolts.

 

Quick side track.
Rebuilding and cleaning LS1 injectors




First i made this but you can buy them off ebay
I covered each section of tubing with heat shrink.
Then used carby cleaner and applied 12v power and sprayed each jet until the stream was even



I brought a new seal kit.


To get the old filters out use a screw large enough so it grips the edges of the copper ring seat and then use pliers to pull out the old filters.

Then use a copper hammer tool to seat the new filters in.
Or some pliers with thin bit of metal over the filter and press it in.

 

Now time for the Heads.
They have been cleaned, 25 thou taken off, valve job done.
PAC 1219x springs
My Heads are the later 2004 which require the valve stem seals with the seats built in (.313" X 500" METAL CLAD GM TOP HAT)
After market COMP CAMS 774-16 valve stem retainers are needed.

I wish i was told these were needed when i brought my cam... caused huge delays but anyway..



First step was to install the LS7 lifters. They have been soaking in running in oil overnight. Need to do it for at least 20mins to an hour i have read. There are little drain holes in the lifters. It doesnt matter which direction you put them in. Blue loctite on the lifter tray bolts and oil under the head of the bolt.


They look so nice after being cleaned.


Always use new Headbolts. They come with thread locker already (similar to blue loctite). Just need to add some running in oil under the head of the bolt, or ARP stuff.


New headgasket. No need to use any other sealants. Just make sure they are on the right direction.


Look too good to be hidden !!!


Need a torque degree gauge.


Looks so nice all painted together. The LSX Innovation brackets and Energy suspension look awesome


Now to check push rod length. You need the firing order, cylinder number and to know if you are at top dead center on the compression stroke. You can tell by looking at the cam. See the lifter is on the low side of the lobe


Here is what the cam looks like if it where outside the engine. The X is where the lifter sits. Its the lowest point. If you are not sure then find TDC and push the pushrod into the lifter and down as much as possible. Keep turning over the engine until that piston is at TDC again. Which ever TDC allowed the lifter to be pushed in further is the one your looking for.

Then you can use these instructions to find what size you need.
https://www.ls1.com/forums/f7/how-me...length-172530/

Mine ended up being 7.375" using 241 heads with 25 thou taken off, stock MLS head gaskets, and a cam from ws6 store 218/227 .600/.600 112+2 LSA

 

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