Stage 3 216/220 or stage 4 223/226
#3
5.3 silverado (these parts are soon to come once I decide on cam) TSP long tubes cold air intake ngk plugs and performance wires one of those cams with circle D stall stage 2.5 port and polish with stainless valves on my 799 heads beehive springs
#7
We were all new at some point so it's cool.
Don't take this the wrong way but there's a lot you need to learn in order to be able to ask the right questions.
The cam wont have anything to do with starter life. Cams do affect dynamic compression and high compression motors are hard on starters. But unless you have high static compression you wont have too high of dynamic/cranking compression to where it will hurt the starter. Read up on static compression, dynamic, and cranking. It will help you understand cams quite a bit more when you do.
As for which cam to pick, that depends on a LOT of things.
Tell us as much as possible about your setup
What vehicle
What motor
What compression ratio you'll be running
What transmission
What gears
What are you gonna do with it? Daily, race, tow.....?
Is it stock weight?
Are you gonna spray it or boost it now or anytime in the near future?
What heads?
What intake?
What exhaust?
Big wheels and tires (heavy) or small and light?
All of that and more is important when picking a cam
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#8
We were all new at some point so it's cool.
Don't take this the wrong way but there's a lot you need to learn in order to be able to ask the right questions.
The cam wont have anything to do with starter life. Cams do affect dynamic compression and high compression motors are hard on starters. But unless you have high static compression you wont have too high of dynamic/cranking compression to where it will hurt the starter. Read up on static compression, dynamic, and cranking. It will help you understand cams quite a bit more when you do.
As for which cam to pick, that depends on a LOT of things.
Tell us as much as possible about your setup
What vehicle
What motor
What compression ratio you'll be running
What transmission
What gears
What are you gonna do with it? Daily, race, tow.....?
Is it stock weight?
Are you gonna spray it or boost it now or anytime in the near future?
What heads?
What intake?
What exhaust?
Big wheels and tires (heavy) or small and light?
All of that and more is important when picking a cam
Don't take this the wrong way but there's a lot you need to learn in order to be able to ask the right questions.
The cam wont have anything to do with starter life. Cams do affect dynamic compression and high compression motors are hard on starters. But unless you have high static compression you wont have too high of dynamic/cranking compression to where it will hurt the starter. Read up on static compression, dynamic, and cranking. It will help you understand cams quite a bit more when you do.
As for which cam to pick, that depends on a LOT of things.
Tell us as much as possible about your setup
What vehicle
What motor
What compression ratio you'll be running
What transmission
What gears
What are you gonna do with it? Daily, race, tow.....?
Is it stock weight?
Are you gonna spray it or boost it now or anytime in the near future?
What heads?
What intake?
What exhaust?
Big wheels and tires (heavy) or small and light?
All of that and more is important when picking a cam
5.3
idk compression
6l80e
3.42 with posi
dailey and race weekends
stock weight
most likely procharge
799 heads
stock intake manifold
Longtube headers with y pipe magnaflow high flow cat and magnaflow bullet
#9
2 things, most people that do as large or larger than the stage 3 you posted end up regretting it in a truck. If you do a 3000 or so stall it will help a lot. And if you're gonna throw a procharger on it you'll want a cam made for boost.
#10
do they regret it because of low gas mileage or something ?
#11
They regret it because a "big cam" gives up low end torque (i.e. leave, in a heavy vehicle) in favor of high-RPM power. Big cam in heavy vehicle = slug off the line. IMO even the smaller of the 2 cams you posted, runs that risk.
I'd suggest no more than about a 212/218 DOD delete cam. Maybe something about like the "Ultra Torque" one on this page, about the 6th or 8th one down. http://www.vincihiperformance.com/ca...s%20truck.html With new better-than-stock springs of course, and rocker trunnion upgrade and new hardened push rods.
I'd suggest no more than about a 212/218 DOD delete cam. Maybe something about like the "Ultra Torque" one on this page, about the 6th or 8th one down. http://www.vincihiperformance.com/ca...s%20truck.html With new better-than-stock springs of course, and rocker trunnion upgrade and new hardened push rods.
#12
Because they lose low end power and in a truck you really notice the loss in low end since it's so heavy
A guy on performance trucks the other day said he actually felt his truck was slower after doing a cam and stall around that size, but everyone is different so who knows why exactly he felt that way.
With a truck, you want more low end torque where you can get it and almost all cams you look at are going to drop off low end power in a trade off for higher end power. If you really want the truck to be fun a blower or bigger motor is the ticket.
Don't get me wrong, it can be better with a cam, but you just cant put much cam in it before it actually does more harm than good.
#13
Because they lose low end power and in a truck you really notice the loss in low end since it's so heavy
A guy on performance trucks the other day said he actually felt his truck was slower after doing a cam and stall around that size, but everyone is different so who knows why exactly he felt that way.
With a truck, you want more low end torque where you can get it and almost all cams you look at are going to drop off low end power in a trade off for higher end power. If you really want the truck to be fun a blower or bigger motor is the ticket.
Don't get me wrong, it can be better with a cam, but you just cant put much cam in it before it actually does more harm than good.
A guy on performance trucks the other day said he actually felt his truck was slower after doing a cam and stall around that size, but everyone is different so who knows why exactly he felt that way.
With a truck, you want more low end torque where you can get it and almost all cams you look at are going to drop off low end power in a trade off for higher end power. If you really want the truck to be fun a blower or bigger motor is the ticket.
Don't get me wrong, it can be better with a cam, but you just cant put much cam in it before it actually does more harm than good.
#14
You want the cam that provides the most usable power range. If I were you I would stop at the 216/220
But again it's your truck not mine and there is a huge range on what people like and what they will tolerate
With a bigger cam and stall it's gonna feel mushy and turdy down low until you stomp the pedal, but it'll **** and get above 4000 or so rpm.
#15
You want the cam that provides the most usable power range. If I were you I would stop at the 216/220
But again it's your truck not mine and there is a huge range on what people like and what they will tolerate
With a bigger cam and stall it's gonna feel mushy and turdy down low until you stomp the pedal, but it'll **** and get above 4000 or so rpm.
But again it's your truck not mine and there is a huge range on what people like and what they will tolerate
With a bigger cam and stall it's gonna feel mushy and turdy down low until you stomp the pedal, but it'll **** and get above 4000 or so rpm.
#18
Sounds good, if you want it to have a little more rumble at idle get a lower LSA, I saw they do 110, 112, and 114.
Read this to help you choose which LSA option you want. From what i've seen and heard the 110 would be the way to go, but I really want to emphasize to you that this is your truck not mine, don't just go off what I say. Read as much as possible and choose based on what YOU want
LSA typically is something you actually don't consider but if you are looking at a cam and all the specs are the same and the only difference is the LSA then it matters. (also read the sticky at the top of this forum about LSA so that the above comment makes sense)
https://www.hotrod.com/articles/cams...ted-explained/
nm here's that sticky. read the links I posted and watch that exhaust video i mentioned so that you know what you want
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...-t-matter.html
Read this to help you choose which LSA option you want. From what i've seen and heard the 110 would be the way to go, but I really want to emphasize to you that this is your truck not mine, don't just go off what I say. Read as much as possible and choose based on what YOU want
LSA typically is something you actually don't consider but if you are looking at a cam and all the specs are the same and the only difference is the LSA then it matters. (also read the sticky at the top of this forum about LSA so that the above comment makes sense)
https://www.hotrod.com/articles/cams...ted-explained/
nm here's that sticky. read the links I posted and watch that exhaust video i mentioned so that you know what you want
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...-t-matter.html
#20
I saw this on performance trucks a while back
I have done a ton of these and agree right around 220@.050 is the sweet spot for a LM7 5.3L. Might see a little higher pk hp number up around 230 but tq and power under the curve will suffer. Also that head likes the higher lifts. You can run a shorter duration on a tighter lsa and get that BIG cam sound without the BIG cam soggy tq curve. A tight lsa will generally help power everywhere on the lm7. I do a lot of custom 218/221, .58X, 108 lsa and 221/224, 108 lsa and the guys love them. A few have been deep to lower 12's on a well set up truck. We even have one turbocharged lol...