Summit engine blocks
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,265
Likes: 671
From: Oskaloosa, Iowa
At this point I'm not going to try to talk you out of building your first engine. It could be easily argued that it would be rather hypocritical of me to do so. My only intent is to make you aware of the rabbit hole you're about to go down so you can make a good decision as to whether or not your time and money are worth the experience.
Your statement above leads me to believe that you don't have any of the tools required for measuring clearances in the engine. So I have to ask the question. Are you aware of the tools and processes required? This is a question you have to answer to yourself, not me. I don't need a reply.
I do have to reiterate, learning to build an engine the right way, the first time, will cost more than simply buying one. Unfortunately, "budget build" "first engine build" and "700 at the wheels through an automatic" can't realistically be used in the same conversation.
Your statement above leads me to believe that you don't have any of the tools required for measuring clearances in the engine. So I have to ask the question. Are you aware of the tools and processes required? This is a question you have to answer to yourself, not me. I don't need a reply.
I do have to reiterate, learning to build an engine the right way, the first time, will cost more than simply buying one. Unfortunately, "budget build" "first engine build" and "700 at the wheels through an automatic" can't realistically be used in the same conversation.
TECH Resident
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 967
Likes: 53
From: Winter Haven FL
You may be better off selling the 243's and getting some of the low compression heads since you're boosting anyway. You can actually make money on the deal since the 243's are worth double the price you'll pay for the unloved heads.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,265
Likes: 671
From: Oskaloosa, Iowa
I currently only have the stock 241's on my ls1 was just thinking of going to 243 in the future. I'm on E85 so 10 to 1 or a little over should be fine with 15 psi.
Find a gen 4 short block and add a cam and valve train of your choice. 700whp is fine on those. If you trash it build another for $400. Takes ALOT of blown up $400 motors to equal a built motor.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,265
Likes: 671
From: Oskaloosa, Iowa
What about the reluctor wheel being 58t? Other than that just the cam sensor and knock sensor difference?
LPE makes the 58 to 24x converter box. Have a buddy running one with 12k miles on his DD and no issues. We tapped the bosses on the side of the block for the GEN 3 knock sensors. Think we also tapped a boss for an alternator bolt. That and the cam/valvetrain is about it. I'd do the oil pump while you have it at the shortblock level. There's tons of info on here and it's pretty straightforward. Gen 4 stuff is beastly from the factory. For 15psi I wouldn't even gap the rings or anything, especially with the centrifugal since the power is linear. He picked up his shortblock for something like $300 bucks. Stock heads, did the cam and valvetrain and gaskets etc. Been running ever since. You seem to be getting the hang of tuning so just keep it safe and itll live a long time.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,265
Likes: 671
From: Oskaloosa, Iowa
LPE makes the 58 to 24x converter box. Have a buddy running one with 12k miles on his DD and no issues. We tapped the bosses on the side of the block for the GEN 3 knock sensors. Think we also tapped a boss for an alternator bolt. That and the cam/valvetrain is about it. I'd do the oil pump while you have it at the shortblock level. There's tons of info on here and it's pretty straightforward. Gen 4 stuff is beastly from the factory. For 15psi I wouldn't even gap the rings or anything, especially with the centrifugal since the power is linear. He picked up his shortblock for something like $300 bucks. Stock heads, did the cam and valvetrain and gaskets etc. Been running ever since. You seem to be getting the hang of tuning so just keep it safe and itll live a long time.
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Verdad Gallardo I did a ton of reading along with you and joecar helping me out a bunch early on I feel pretty confident in my tuning ability now. At 10 psi now and haven’t hurt it yet. I’d guess I’m about 550 rwhp through the auto. Switching to E85 helped car never gets hot and iat’s are low. I don’t know where the limit is on an ls1 with sbe and stock heads, gaskets, and bolts. I’m thinking 12 psi might put me at the limit.
TECH Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 22,291
Likes: 3,616
From: Central Cal.
It’s discouraging for me personally to see people on a forum like this, trying to talk people out of building their own engines. I built my first small block Chevy with plastigauge, and a plastic dial caliper. That engine is still running today.
If the op were looking at a NMCA, or NASCAR class, it would be different, but he just wants to learn how to put a short block together for a Hotrod. SMH.
If the op were looking at a NMCA, or NASCAR class, it would be different, but he just wants to learn how to put a short block together for a Hotrod. SMH.
It’s discouraging for me personally to see people on a forum like this, trying to talk people out of building their own engines. I built my first small block Chevy with plastigauge, and a plastic dial caliper. That engine is still running today.
If the op were looking at a NMCA, or NASCAR class, it would be different, but he just wants to learn how to put a short block together for a Hotrod. SMH.
If the op were looking at a NMCA, or NASCAR class, it would be different, but he just wants to learn how to put a short block together for a Hotrod. SMH.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,265
Likes: 671
From: Oskaloosa, Iowa
As for the comment somewhere above where someone said junkyard motors are $400 so just keep putting those in until they blow up and you'll be money ahead --- who in the F wants to keep swapping motors? And what about when it blows up? I have zero interest in chancing windowing a block and spraying oil all over the track or road while on drag radials going over 100mph. Nah, I'm good. And when those $400 motors blow up, they arent going to blow up on a lift in your garage. They could blow a mile from your house, they could blow at a track that takes two hours to drive too, they can blow up halfway across the country. Then what? It's just a stupid statement. I want to drive my car, not spend all of my free time fixing ****.
Correct me if I'm wrong but don't LS1's tend to start lifting heads easier than others? I've heard that's more of a weakness than the shortblock, if tuned properly obviously. But that info comes from the internet so who knows. I have seen a video of it happen on a dyno. Pretty interesting.
NOBODY can build them like the robot crew at GM! You ought to watch those robots check the clearances, as they carefully assemble the engines...NOT!!!!!!
I'm no expert, but years of dreaming about a procharger have led me down some lengthy internet paths. It's frustrating to see people being called stupid for putting quality parts into a FI build.
As for the comment somewhere above where someone said junkyard motors are $400 so just keep putting those in until they blow up and you'll be money ahead --- who in the F wants to keep swapping motors? And what about when it blows up? I have zero interest in chancing windowing a block and spraying oil all over the track or road while on drag radials going over 100mph. Nah, I'm good. And when those $400 motors blow up, they arent going to blow up on a lift in your garage. They could blow a mile from your house, they could blow at a track that takes two hours to drive too, they can blow up halfway across the country. Then what? It's just a stupid statement. I want to drive my car, not spend all of my free time fixing ****.
Correct me if I'm wrong but don't LS1's tend to start lifting heads easier than others? I've heard that's more of a weakness than the shortblock, if tuned properly obviously. But that info comes from the internet so who knows. I have seen a video of it happen on a dyno. Pretty interesting.
As for the comment somewhere above where someone said junkyard motors are $400 so just keep putting those in until they blow up and you'll be money ahead --- who in the F wants to keep swapping motors? And what about when it blows up? I have zero interest in chancing windowing a block and spraying oil all over the track or road while on drag radials going over 100mph. Nah, I'm good. And when those $400 motors blow up, they arent going to blow up on a lift in your garage. They could blow a mile from your house, they could blow at a track that takes two hours to drive too, they can blow up halfway across the country. Then what? It's just a stupid statement. I want to drive my car, not spend all of my free time fixing ****.
Correct me if I'm wrong but don't LS1's tend to start lifting heads easier than others? I've heard that's more of a weakness than the shortblock, if tuned properly obviously. But that info comes from the internet so who knows. I have seen a video of it happen on a dyno. Pretty interesting.
Friends running a stock Gen 3 shortblock and hit 19 psi on the street on a 78mm turbo on 93 octane only no meth. He's got 12k miles and counting on it as its his daily driver. FWIW, YMMV.
It’s discouraging for me personally to see people on a forum like this, trying to talk people out of building their own engines. I built my first small block Chevy with plastigauge, and a plastic dial caliper. That engine is still running today.
If the op were looking at a NMCA, or NASCAR class, it would be different, but he just wants to learn how to put a short block together for a Hotrod. SMH.
If the op were looking at a NMCA, or NASCAR class, it would be different, but he just wants to learn how to put a short block together for a Hotrod. SMH.