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Old Aug 26, 2018 | 01:45 PM
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Originally Posted by '68LT1camaro
At this point I'm not going to try to talk you out of building your first engine. It could be easily argued that it would be rather hypocritical of me to do so. My only intent is to make you aware of the rabbit hole you're about to go down so you can make a good decision as to whether or not your time and money are worth the experience.

Your statement above leads me to believe that you don't have any of the tools required for measuring clearances in the engine. So I have to ask the question. Are you aware of the tools and processes required? This is a question you have to answer to yourself, not me. I don't need a reply.

I do have to reiterate, learning to build an engine the right way, the first time, will cost more than simply buying one. Unfortunately, "budget build" "first engine build" and "700 at the wheels through an automatic" can't realistically be used in the same conversation.
Good input...I can borrow most tools I would need from a close friend. I’ve also seen a few popular sponsors that can build a 370 iron shortblock just over 4g that should handle my goals easily. I can’t build it cheaper. Buying a short block and taking it from there is an option as well. For the top end I think un ported 243’s with my current ls6 intake will be fine. A 370 with a good cam and that top end with 15 psi on E85 should be close to my goals. All things considered in this hobby that’s a pretty low budget motor for that power level.
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Old Aug 26, 2018 | 06:11 PM
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You may be better off selling the 243's and getting some of the low compression heads since you're boosting anyway. You can actually make money on the deal since the 243's are worth double the price you'll pay for the unloved heads.
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Old Aug 27, 2018 | 03:40 AM
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Originally Posted by bammax
You may be better off selling the 243's and getting some of the low compression heads since you're boosting anyway. You can actually make money on the deal since the 243's are worth double the price you'll pay for the unloved heads.
I currently only have the stock 241's on my ls1 was just thinking of going to 243 in the future. I'm on E85 so 10 to 1 or a little over should be fine with 15 psi.
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Old Aug 27, 2018 | 07:26 AM
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Find a gen 4 short block and add a cam and valve train of your choice. 700whp is fine on those. If you trash it build another for $400. Takes ALOT of blown up $400 motors to equal a built motor.
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Old Aug 27, 2018 | 07:51 AM
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Originally Posted by ddnspider
Find a gen 4 short block and add a cam and valve train of your choice. 700whp is fine on those. If you trash it build another for $400. Takes ALOT of blown up $400 motors to equal a built motor.
What about the reluctor wheel being 58t? Other than that just the cam sensor and knock sensor difference?
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Old Aug 27, 2018 | 08:59 AM
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Originally Posted by BCNUL8R


What about the reluctor wheel being 58t? Other than that just the cam sensor and knock sensor difference?
LPE makes the 58 to 24x converter box. Have a buddy running one with 12k miles on his DD and no issues. We tapped the bosses on the side of the block for the GEN 3 knock sensors. Think we also tapped a boss for an alternator bolt. That and the cam/valvetrain is about it. I'd do the oil pump while you have it at the shortblock level. There's tons of info on here and it's pretty straightforward. Gen 4 stuff is beastly from the factory. For 15psi I wouldn't even gap the rings or anything, especially with the centrifugal since the power is linear. He picked up his shortblock for something like $300 bucks. Stock heads, did the cam and valvetrain and gaskets etc. Been running ever since. You seem to be getting the hang of tuning so just keep it safe and itll live a long time.
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Old Aug 27, 2018 | 10:12 AM
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Originally Posted by ddnspider
LPE makes the 58 to 24x converter box. Have a buddy running one with 12k miles on his DD and no issues. We tapped the bosses on the side of the block for the GEN 3 knock sensors. Think we also tapped a boss for an alternator bolt. That and the cam/valvetrain is about it. I'd do the oil pump while you have it at the shortblock level. There's tons of info on here and it's pretty straightforward. Gen 4 stuff is beastly from the factory. For 15psi I wouldn't even gap the rings or anything, especially with the centrifugal since the power is linear. He picked up his shortblock for something like $300 bucks. Stock heads, did the cam and valvetrain and gaskets etc. Been running ever since. You seem to be getting the hang of tuning so just keep it safe and itll live a long time.
I did a ton of reading along with you and joecar helping me out a bunch early on I feel pretty confident in my tuning ability now. At 10 psi now and haven’t hurt it yet. I’d guess I’m about 550 rwhp through the auto. Switching to E85 helped car never gets hot and iat’s are low. I don’t know where the limit is on an ls1 with sbe and stock heads, gaskets, and bolts. I’m thinking 12 psi might put me at the limit.
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Old Aug 27, 2018 | 10:23 AM
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Why did someone say that GM spent a S load developing these motors? And that no one can put one together the same? So no one but GM can build an LS motor?

Interesting.
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Old Aug 27, 2018 | 10:50 AM
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Originally Posted by BCNUL8R


I did a ton of reading along with you and joecar helping me out a bunch early on I feel pretty confident in my tuning ability now. At 10 psi now and haven’t hurt it yet. I’d guess I’m about 550 rwhp through the auto. Switching to E85 helped car never gets hot and iat’s are low. I don’t know where the limit is on an ls1 with sbe and stock heads, gaskets, and bolts. I’m thinking 12 psi might put me at the limit.
Above 600w is where people start to get sketchy about the regular LS1. E85 definitely helps keep it alive. Gen 4 and I wouldn't blink at 700whp.
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Old Aug 27, 2018 | 10:59 AM
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Originally Posted by AnotherWs6
Why did someone say that GM spent a S load developing these motors? And that no one can put one together the same? So no one but GM can build an LS motor?
Interesting.
Sounds like something 8.Lug would say. Oh wait. He DID.
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Old Aug 27, 2018 | 11:49 AM
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It’s discouraging for me personally to see people on a forum like this, trying to talk people out of building their own engines. I built my first small block Chevy with plastigauge, and a plastic dial caliper. That engine is still running today.
If the op were looking at a NMCA, or NASCAR class, it would be different, but he just wants to learn how to put a short block together for a Hotrod. SMH.
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Old Aug 27, 2018 | 11:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Che70velle
It’s discouraging for me personally to see people on a forum like this, trying to talk people out of building their own engines. I built my first small block Chevy with plastigauge, and a plastic dial caliper. That engine is still running today.
If the op were looking at a NMCA, or NASCAR class, it would be different, but he just wants to learn how to put a short block together for a Hotrod. SMH.
It's MORE discouraging to see people trying to talk others into dumping thousands of dollars into there cars when their goals do not require doing so.
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Old Aug 27, 2018 | 11:59 AM
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Originally Posted by ddnspider
It's MORE discouraging to see people trying to talk others into dumping thousands of dollars into there cars when their goals do not require doing so.
True. But everyone needs a forged assembly, and $5k heads right?
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Old Aug 27, 2018 | 12:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Che70velle


True. But everyone needs a forged assembly, and $5k heads right?
There has to be a middle ground...lol...I plan to use my ls6 intake, stock throttle body, and maybe even keep my 241 heads. I just want a reliable bottom end and a cam well matched to the setup.
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Old Aug 27, 2018 | 12:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Che70velle


True. But everyone needs a forged assembly, and $5k heads right?
half the internet says so....the other half says stock motors are 8 second cars and any mods outside of boltons are worthless trash
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Old Aug 27, 2018 | 02:32 PM
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Originally Posted by G Atsma
Sounds like something 8.Lug would say. Oh wait. He DID.
I'm going to build and staff a foundry, an entire engineering department, and a manufacturing facility. Because that is apparently the RIGHT way to put together a short block. In fact, it might be the only way.
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Old Aug 27, 2018 | 02:41 PM
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Originally Posted by ddnspider
half the internet says so....the other half says stock motors are 8 second cars and any mods outside of boltons are worthless trash
I'm no expert, but years of dreaming about a procharger have led me down some lengthy internet paths. It's frustrating to see people being called stupid for putting quality parts into a FI build.

As for the comment somewhere above where someone said junkyard motors are $400 so just keep putting those in until they blow up and you'll be money ahead --- who in the F wants to keep swapping motors? And what about when it blows up? I have zero interest in chancing windowing a block and spraying oil all over the track or road while on drag radials going over 100mph. Nah, I'm good. And when those $400 motors blow up, they arent going to blow up on a lift in your garage. They could blow a mile from your house, they could blow at a track that takes two hours to drive too, they can blow up halfway across the country. Then what? It's just a stupid statement. I want to drive my car, not spend all of my free time fixing ****.

Correct me if I'm wrong but don't LS1's tend to start lifting heads easier than others? I've heard that's more of a weakness than the shortblock, if tuned properly obviously. But that info comes from the internet so who knows. I have seen a video of it happen on a dyno. Pretty interesting.
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Old Aug 27, 2018 | 02:47 PM
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Originally Posted by AnotherWs6
I'm going to build and staff a foundry, an entire engineering department, and a manufacturing facility. Because that is apparently the RIGHT way to put together a short block. In fact, it might be the only way.
NOBODY can build them like the robot crew at GM! You ought to watch those robots check the clearances, as they carefully assemble the engines...NOT!!!!!!
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Old Aug 27, 2018 | 03:28 PM
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Originally Posted by AnotherWs6
I'm no expert, but years of dreaming about a procharger have led me down some lengthy internet paths. It's frustrating to see people being called stupid for putting quality parts into a FI build.

As for the comment somewhere above where someone said junkyard motors are $400 so just keep putting those in until they blow up and you'll be money ahead --- who in the F wants to keep swapping motors? And what about when it blows up? I have zero interest in chancing windowing a block and spraying oil all over the track or road while on drag radials going over 100mph. Nah, I'm good. And when those $400 motors blow up, they arent going to blow up on a lift in your garage. They could blow a mile from your house, they could blow at a track that takes two hours to drive too, they can blow up halfway across the country. Then what? It's just a stupid statement. I want to drive my car, not spend all of my free time fixing ****.

Correct me if I'm wrong but don't LS1's tend to start lifting heads easier than others? I've heard that's more of a weakness than the shortblock, if tuned properly obviously. But that info comes from the internet so who knows. I have seen a video of it happen on a dyno. Pretty interesting.
Have you boosted an Fbody or you just read the internet???? I'm not speaking in the hypothetical world....this is IRL stuff that I do. My 1st boosted setup was a turbo 383 with forged everything. That was before I knew better. For the OP's goals, he does NOT need a forged shortblock because a stock Gen 4 motor WILL handle 700whp. I was simply stating that worst case, IF something were to go wrong, from a bad tune or bad gas, stuck injector, etc. etc., he's out $400 bucks, not $4000. Nobody is saying throw in a crap motor because its $400 and when it blows up, so what, put in another. I'm saying based on his modest goals, he doesnt NEED a forged motor to have a reliable setup.

Friends running a stock Gen 3 shortblock and hit 19 psi on the street on a 78mm turbo on 93 octane only no meth. He's got 12k miles and counting on it as its his daily driver. FWIW, YMMV.
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Old Aug 27, 2018 | 03:29 PM
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Originally Posted by ddnspider
Find a gen 4 short block and add a cam and valve train of your choice. 700whp is fine on those. If you trash it build another for $400. Takes ALOT of blown up $400 motors to equal a built motor.
That's how I've always done it. In many cases I ran door to door with my buddies with their built engines with my stock ****. I did it out of budget constraints, but it was really impressive seeing what a stock motor will take. I was boosting and putting nitrous on LS vtec motors back in the day and running them to 8100 rpm all day every damn day when people said it couldn't be done.

Originally Posted by Che70velle
It’s discouraging for me personally to see people on a forum like this, trying to talk people out of building their own engines. I built my first small block Chevy with plastigauge, and a plastic dial caliper. That engine is still running today.
If the op were looking at a NMCA, or NASCAR class, it would be different, but he just wants to learn how to put a short block together for a Hotrod. SMH.
Originally Posted by ddnspider
It's MORE discouraging to see people trying to talk others into dumping thousands of dollars into there cars when their goals do not require doing so.
Agreed and normally would agree with you ddnspider but OP specifically started this thread because he WANTS to build his own motor. That is his main objective.
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