Hard turning of 408 stroker
it all spins but my torque bar is maxed at 150 now I don't feel anything grabbing anywhere and my batter fully charged won't turn the flex plate it just has a clicking noise but it's engaged to the flex plate
Pull the rocker arms off and try it.
Also when a starter just clicks, either you have a bad connection or a bad starter. The bad connection is usually at the battery, pull the terminals and clean them with water and a metal bristle brush. Or it's just clicking because the engine is seized
Also when a starter just clicks, either you have a bad connection or a bad starter. The bad connection is usually at the battery, pull the terminals and clean them with water and a metal bristle brush. Or it's just clicking because the engine is seized
Pull the rocker arms off and try it.
Also when a starter just clicks, either you have a bad connection or a bad starter. The bad connection is usually at the battery, pull the terminals and clean them with water and a metal bristle brush. Or it's just clicking because the engine is seized
Also when a starter just clicks, either you have a bad connection or a bad starter. The bad connection is usually at the battery, pull the terminals and clean them with water and a metal bristle brush. Or it's just clicking because the engine is seized
Update!!! The starter spins it now apparently a screw driver that isn't crap and shorter thicker cables work great now I'm gonna run it for a few seconds and see it ran good and continuous alot of air came out of the exhaust ports is that normal sinve no combustion is happening?
starter turned it over fine I hear no binding once so ever or hear the starter bogging down if their is a tight spot. It got a little easier to turn the crank no much just a little. And there is oil flow because I can see it coming and flowing to the head. So Idk what else of could be?
10 Second Club
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 2,317
Likes: 20
From: Hurley, VA
With just the crank in the block it should roll easily with one finger. They’re no way it should take that much effort to turn it with the plugs out. I would pull the rockers just for peace of mind. The valves could be contacting just enough to cause friction and not enough to lock the motor. I’m gonna say something in the bottom is tight. Even a little tight on the crank can turn but once you add the weight of everything it amplifies it.
With just the crank in the block it should roll easily with one finger. They’re no way it should take that much effort to turn it with the plugs out. I would pull the rockers just for peace of mind. The valves could be contacting just enough to cause friction and not enough to lock the motor. I’m gonna say something in the bottom is tight. Even a little tight on the crank can turn but once you add the weight of everything it amplifies it.
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Awesome K5 Blazer Restomod Comes With C7 Corvette Power
Verdad Gallardo
10 Camaros You Should Never Buy
10 LS Engine Myths That Refuse to Die
Verdad Gallardo
lol that's what the machine shop guy said not me. I figured that and that fact the exhaust port opens to it would be that.
I can't believe the rockers haven't been pulled yet to see if it gets better. Otherwise I wonder if the bore wasn't machined right for the pistons and rings and they're too tight. Once they got moving it would easier but the initial push would be tough.
with rockers off it's a little easier not as hard to turn but still hard.
TECH Addict
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 2,180
Likes: 969
If it's taking over 100 ft-lbs on the crank to turn it, something isn't right.
A V8 short block, freshly built, with typical tension rings (not "low") and good fresh bores, should take around 30 - 35.
As said above, with just the crank in, it should spin easily by hand; you should be able to grab the snout, spin it with a flick of the wrist, and it should keep spinning for a half-turn or more before it stops. Then, as you add pistons it should get progressively harder for each one, by about the same amount each time. With the first few pistons it should spin easily as the pistons go through TDC and BDC but as you add more it should get more uniform all the way round as you turn it. Adding the cam shouldn't be noticeable at all. Putting on the heads should make no difference whatsoever. Putting in the rest of the valve train should add a few ft-lbs, maybe 5 - 10. So all the way put together it might take 40 - 50 ft-lbs on the crank. Accessories might add a few more.
Does it turn easier with the belt off?
A V8 short block, freshly built, with typical tension rings (not "low") and good fresh bores, should take around 30 - 35.
As said above, with just the crank in, it should spin easily by hand; you should be able to grab the snout, spin it with a flick of the wrist, and it should keep spinning for a half-turn or more before it stops. Then, as you add pistons it should get progressively harder for each one, by about the same amount each time. With the first few pistons it should spin easily as the pistons go through TDC and BDC but as you add more it should get more uniform all the way round as you turn it. Adding the cam shouldn't be noticeable at all. Putting on the heads should make no difference whatsoever. Putting in the rest of the valve train should add a few ft-lbs, maybe 5 - 10. So all the way put together it might take 40 - 50 ft-lbs on the crank. Accessories might add a few more.
Does it turn easier with the belt off?
