Cam berings
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Teching In
Joined: Apr 2018
Posts: 7
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Cam berings I have a question, built a stock 4.8 with all good parts, no machine work needed just replaced cam bearings, after first start I didn't like the oil pressure but thought it was the gauge, at 150 miles changed oil full of metal, so checked oil pressure with a real gauge and its crap, so pulled motor found front cam baring installed only lined up with one oil hole, I'm guessing that's bad, before I take back to machine shop is that what happen? the motor is toast will need machine work now.
I agree with what S3 says above.. Despite LOVING everything about LS engines-they are NOT cheap to rebuild. You can expect to spend at least $1200-1500 to rebuild one, and that is YOU doing all the labor, and just buying the engine gasket set, pistons, bearings, rings, & machine work. And that is for a STOCK rebuild... No performance cam, or lifters, or valve springs...
If you are going to spend that kind of $$ rebuilding one, just go ahead and start with a used 6.0L and be WAY ahead of the game. Or if you are still intent on rebuilding one.. Start with a 6.0 core... It will cost the same to rebuild as a 4.8, but you will get thousands of more smiles out of the 6.0.
I buy every 6.0 core I come across. I have 4 complete 6.0's sitting at my shop right now waiting on rebuilds. The price for a non-blown-up 6.0 core is going up almost weekly. I used to pick up poor running, smokers, with high mileage for $150 just a few years ago.. The last one I bought had bent rods from water ingestion, and I had to pay $350 for that one last month as he had other people coming to look at it. I LOVE 6.0's.
Back on subject... Metal in the oil, or oil pan, means there is a problem with a failed lifter, bearing (rod or main), or cam bearings not put in perfectly straight.. Or lack of oil pressure on initial start up due to the engine not being properly primed. Oil pump properly aligned when installed? If you just bolted the oil pump on without aligning it, maybe the oil pump gears are chewed up. Post a pic of what you find. I love pics of engine carnage... Also let us know what you find was the source of the metal.
If you are going to spend that kind of $$ rebuilding one, just go ahead and start with a used 6.0L and be WAY ahead of the game. Or if you are still intent on rebuilding one.. Start with a 6.0 core... It will cost the same to rebuild as a 4.8, but you will get thousands of more smiles out of the 6.0.
I buy every 6.0 core I come across. I have 4 complete 6.0's sitting at my shop right now waiting on rebuilds. The price for a non-blown-up 6.0 core is going up almost weekly. I used to pick up poor running, smokers, with high mileage for $150 just a few years ago.. The last one I bought had bent rods from water ingestion, and I had to pay $350 for that one last month as he had other people coming to look at it. I LOVE 6.0's.
Back on subject... Metal in the oil, or oil pan, means there is a problem with a failed lifter, bearing (rod or main), or cam bearings not put in perfectly straight.. Or lack of oil pressure on initial start up due to the engine not being properly primed. Oil pump properly aligned when installed? If you just bolted the oil pump on without aligning it, maybe the oil pump gears are chewed up. Post a pic of what you find. I love pics of engine carnage... Also let us know what you find was the source of the metal.
