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Iron block HP limit with forged internals? 1500+ HP truck

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Old 12-04-2018, 09:56 AM
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Originally Posted by SLOW SEDAN
True, why my new car is barely 3200lbs lol But it still needs 4 digit power just because, well why not!
Shoot I didnt think they made new cars that weighed less than 4k lbs LMAO
Old 12-04-2018, 10:05 AM
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Originally Posted by ddnspider
Shoot I didnt think they made new cars that weighed less than 4k lbs LMAO
Doesn't seem like they do which is why its not new but new to me, lol
Old 12-04-2018, 10:06 AM
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Originally Posted by SLOW SEDAN
Doesn't seem like they do which is why its not new but new to me, lol
now that makes more sense lol.
Old 12-04-2018, 09:36 PM
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Originally Posted by SLOW SEDAN
4 bolt TFS heads have made well north of 1500hp and cost $1600, not a bad bang for the buck compared to a 6 bolt block and heads depending on your goals.
Agreed, plenty of guys have made great power with 4 bolt blocks.

I was just saying the eventual "limiting factor" would be keeping the heads sealed before breaking an iron block.
Old 12-04-2018, 09:49 PM
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The last episode of Engine masters they made 1500 horse with a stock bottom end 4 bolt block. Obviously this would be way different in a car but it can be done. Link to HotRod article.
Old 12-04-2018, 10:57 PM
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Smaller bore will keep the heads down. That's why you see people pushing water far more often with 6.0s than 5.3s. 4.8 is the ideal candidate for keeping heads down.
Old 12-04-2018, 11:05 PM
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I'd like to see the budget, I wouldn't waste the money on a stock block at that level. I know what I have in my engine and the only thing stock is the block and front/rear/valley cover. It's not cheap and I still have to get a trans and rear built to handle the power, I was thinking 4l80e but to reliably hold the power I could cut the cost in half by going with a glide. To build a complete driveline that will make and hold 1500hp reliably you better have 15k budget to just get started. Making 500-700hp reliably isn't that hard or expensive but when you start talking reliable triple digit power it's gets expensive real fast. Just the fuel system needed for that kind of power starts at more than some guys have in their engines lol
Just off the top of my head and being very conservative parts wise.
$2,300 Crankshaft
$1,400 Rods
$900 Pistons
$2,800 Heads
$2,000 for block and machining.

yes it can be done cheaper but at the cost of reliability.
Old 12-05-2018, 09:35 AM
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Originally Posted by LLLosingit
I'd like to see the budget, I wouldn't waste the money on a stock block at that level. I know what I have in my engine and the only thing stock is the block and front/rear/valley cover. It's not cheap and I still have to get a trans and rear built to handle the power, I was thinking 4l80e but to reliably hold the power I could cut the cost in half by going with a glide. To build a complete driveline that will make and hold 1500hp reliably you better have 15k budget to just get started. Making 500-700hp reliably isn't that hard or expensive but when you start talking reliable triple digit power it's gets expensive real fast. Just the fuel system needed for that kind of power starts at more than some guys have in their engines lol
Just off the top of my head and being very conservative parts wise.
$2,300 Crankshaft
$1,400 Rods
$900 Pistons
$2,800 Heads
$2,000 for block and machining.

yes it can be done cheaper but at the cost of reliability.
You certainly are thorough, but also excessive. Its been proven you don't need a $2,300 crank, $1,400 rods, or $900 pistons or a fancy block for 1500hp. Also depends on what you call reliable, how long do you want the engine to last? A season, a year, two years? Because its going to take quite a few years to catch up to your prices with a simple drop in rod/piston/crank combo for $2000.

As far as fuel system get a Aeromotive 5gpm for $1200 and a set of Bosch 210 injectors for $500 and your covered to well past 1500hp.
Old 12-05-2018, 10:41 AM
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Originally Posted by JoeNova
Smaller bore will keep the heads down. That's why you see people pushing water far more often with 6.0s than 5.3s. 4.8 is the ideal candidate for keeping heads down.

Do you know why that is? Theory says (or at least mine says) you have very similar cylinder pressure at x horsepower/tq and would think the heads would want to push at the same pressures. I'm always interested in the why behind everything.
Old 12-05-2018, 11:16 AM
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Originally Posted by 00pooterSS
Do you know why that is? Theory says (or at least mine says) you have very similar cylinder pressure at x horsepower/tq and would think the heads would want to push at the same pressures. I'm always interested in the why behind everything.
Pounds per square inch (cylinder pressure) and actual square inches (bore size).

1500 PSI cylinder pressure on a 4" bore (12.56 square inches) = 18840 lbs of force pushing up on the cylinder head.
1500 PSI cylinder pressure on a 3.78" bore (11.21 square inches) = 16824 lbs of force pushing up on the cylinder head.

Couple that with the smaller bore gaskets on the 4.8/5.3 allowing for more deck sealing surface, and you have a much better recipe for keeping the heads down.
Old 12-05-2018, 01:23 PM
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You can definitely break an iron 6.0 block before the head gaskets even think about leaking
Old 12-05-2018, 01:30 PM
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Originally Posted by rotary1307cc
You can definitely break an iron 6.0 block before the head gaskets even think about leaking
I agree, with a shitty tune lol

Not one issue with crank rods or pistons at 35+ psi but headgaskets let go occasionally. You have a solution?
Old 12-05-2018, 01:40 PM
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I have no idea what you are getting at

The iron 6.0 would be my last choice of an OEM block to use unless you at least half fill it

They have very thin cylinders between the bores... Fact

Late aluminum 5.3 with siamese bores is the OEM block of choice I'd use for the best foundatuon
Old 12-05-2018, 01:52 PM
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Originally Posted by rotary1307cc
I have no idea what you are getting at

The iron 6.0 would be my last choice of an OEM block to use unless you at least half fill it

They have very thin cylinders between the bores... Fact

Late aluminum 5.3 with siamese bores is the OEM block of choice I'd use for the best foundatuon
No solution... got it. Thin as you say they are, I've bent a crank before I've hurt a 6.0 block lol
Old 12-05-2018, 01:55 PM
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Face->palm


Facts.... Are facts
Old 12-05-2018, 01:59 PM
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Virgin bore 6.0




Virgin bore 5.3...




Why it is thin and weak




Vs Siamese aluminum 5.3


Old 12-05-2018, 02:02 PM
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Early and late iron 6.0 alike





















How many more you want me to post?
Old 12-05-2018, 02:04 PM
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Originally Posted by rotary1307cc
Face->palm
Facts.... Are facts
I never said they weren't thin... but they still work for decent power levels.


Originally Posted by rotary1307cc
Early and late iron 6.0 alike

How many more you want me to post?
As many as you want, then post the power it took to break them.

Old 12-05-2018, 02:11 PM
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Its fatigue over time. Many of those are not much if at all over 1k

If you knew how many cracked 6.0s are out there you would **** your pants

It is simply a foolish move to use one when there are better/stronger blocks available for less money.... And lighter
Old 12-05-2018, 02:21 PM
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Originally Posted by rotary1307cc
Its fatigue over time. Many of those are not much if at all over 1k

If you knew how many cracked 6.0s are out there you would **** your pants

It is simply a foolish move to use one when there are better/stronger blocks available for less money.... And lighter
No **** here, because I don't care about ones I don't touch lol Foolish? Depends on the price, if its cheap enough and lasts long enough then it can be justifiable. If someone walks up with a $200 iron 6.0 I'm not going to turn it away, I'm going to boost the **** out of it until it blows up and not give a **** about it.

Its not like I only use iron 6.0's, have plenty of other iron and aluminum engines as well so I'm not disagreeing with you entirely. Just stating there's no magical horsepower limit where they all instantly blow up.




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