Dimeomboost

^^^^^^^ if u dont take his advice and it bites u in the *** he should get to kick u in the nuts

BCNUL8R

iTrader: (2)

What is your actual power goal with the centrifugal supercharger? Your power goals and fuel you plan to use are pretty critical in my opinion as far as planning the engine build. If you are planning a lot of boost I actually don't like or think the "stroker" crank is needed. The F1a and bigger prochargers have a reputation of being hard on crank snouts, but the D1x and smaller don't have this problem. The only cranks I've seen damaged by the large blowers have been oem and callies compstar. If your goal is under 800 rwhp, I'd just go with a forged 347 and a D1x procharger with a stock crank. If you want more than that I'd also stick with the 347, but go with an F1a-94 blower with a high quality crank still with stock stroke.

Flame suit on...LOL...

99 Black Bird T/A

iTrader: (4)

Adding to what BCNUL8R said, if big boost is the long term plan, it might be worth considering replacing the LS1 block with one of the newer LS blocks that has stronger cylinder liners instead of doing the stroker crank.

No flames here, it all really depends on what the OP wants.

BCNUL8R

iTrader: (2)

Utinator

TSP also has a 395 CID stroker kit. With the 11cc dished pistons, it will give you about a 10.35:1 compression ratio. That is assuming stock heads and a head gasket .045" thick.

I was just about to ask a similar question. I'm glad I saw this thread. I would really like a Pro-charger, but I'm concerned about my stock pistons. It seems like 600 whp is about the limit on the stock pistons. A set of forged pistons would be sweet, but I haven't found any in the stock bore. They are all 3.903-.3.905".

Suncc49

No way is 600hp the limit on stock pistons lol....

BCNUL8R

iTrader: (2)

99 Black Bird T/A

iTrader: (4)

The stock pistons are pretty good in my opinion. They don't survive bad tuning and detonation with boost for long.

Back in 2002-2003 had a friend making ~680 wheel hp in his procharged 02 SS Camaro. The tuning software wasn't as good then. The stock pistons held up fine. Eventually the oil control rings wore out and started giving puffs of blue smoke. Still ran good, in the low 10's, just needed re-ringed.

BCNUL8R

iTrader: (2)

jayyk31

iTrader: (2)

I have an iron 408. I used the Chinesium Lunati crank, Compstar rods, Wiseco slugs. No prob balancing, does not burn oil, no poston rock, and the crank measured really consistant on everyrhing. So im pretty sure if you go with any of the Callies, K1, Lunati, etc... stuff you shouldnt have any issues!

Summitracing

Summit and Dart added some new 24x and 58x 387 and 427 Cid. short block kits this month. They are built with the Dart LS SHP blocks, K1 cranks and rods, Mostly Wiseco and some JE Pistons, Rings, Clevite H Bearings, along with cam bearing, galley plugs, and dowels, There's also 400 Cid. SBC and 565 Cid. BBC kits. We've attached a photo of them in catalog format so you can see what Compression ratios are with various chamber sizes. There's also a link to finding them on our site. Here's a link.

BCNUL8R

iTrader: (2)

petkol

It is for a street car that will never see over 700whp for sure. I just need a decent quality rotating assembly that will take low to medium boost without any potential problems. To be honest 600whp is all I need to cruise the streets.

Summitracing

Good news! $150 worth of Summit Bucks on purchase of K1 rotating assemblies. Here are their present offerings! Limited time deal!

Che70velle

iTrader: (6)

Summitracing

The Dart Summit Shortblock Kits are great. They really put a lot of thought into them and cylinder lengths are long and happy with a lot of stroke. Wiseco and JE require minimal piston to wall clearance. Keep in mind, they are not assembled and will require finish hone. The crank isn't balanced and the rings need to be file fit. The decks are a few thousandths high. At the same time, they did a nice job of targeting compression ratio targets that are suitable for most or easily adapted to. They also held the line on stroke so little to any clearancing will be required down below. The Gen. 1 Small blocks were left at 3.750 so getting into small base circle cams aren't going to be required in most cases. The 565CID is 14:1 is a pretty mean deal too. It uses a Quick 16 Wiseco piston and a Big M Sportsman block.

Utinator

So, if we are only aiming for 600 whp, are forged internals really necessary? I say "we" because it sounds like the OP and I have the same power and streetability goals.

Honestly, I think 600 whp is way too much for a street car/daily driver. I'm just thinking that's about where we are going to end up with a little heads/cam/intake work on a Pro-Charger. I'm currently at 382 whp. Pro-Charger typically advertises a 50% increase. So, I would probably end up around 570-580 whp...?

BCNUL8R

iTrader: (2)

For a procharged LS at 600 to 700 rwhp a well built 347 with forged rods/pistons oem crank with decent heads, ls6 intake, and a proper cam for the combo would get you there easily and be reliable. For a procharged motor I'd go with an LS2 or Iron 6.0 block with an oem crank over a 383 ls1 any day, but a 347 ls1 will get you to that goal also.

For what it's worth on street tires at near 600 rwhp in 50 degree temps I can blow the tires off so easy from a 20 mph roll it's like reving the car in neutral. This is with a procharged 346 which is not a low rpm torque monster setup. You'll have plenty of fun with a 600 to 700 rwhp 347 on the street.

BCNUL8R

iTrader: (2)

600 whp is not too much for the street at all, but you just have to respect the power and don't drive over your head. Forged internals aren't necessary for that power. That's where I'm at with a stock bottom end, but it's a low mileage weekend toy with occasional drag strip visits. I'm of the mindset of not taking apart a good running motor so don't be afraid to boost your stock motor. Just understand it will not last forever at that level and I wouldn't push a daily that far. Power potential is based upon the CFM the blower is producing. Boost is measured at the intake and is a measure of resistance. If you have a good flowing motor it will make more power at a lower boost number. Their 50% increase is based upon a stock motor with the pulley they supply with the base kit. The rpm you spin the blower will determine how much power it's capable of supporting period. The boost number will vary based upon how well the motor flows. A cammed 346 with really nice heads and high flowing exhaust might make 600 whp at 10 psi while a stock ls1 with the same blower and pulley combo might make 600 whp, but be at 15 psi.

Summitracing