Cam sensor troubles
Cam sensor troubles My 99 5.3 is having cam sensor problems that came about after the cam swap. I've change the sensor, pig tail, check power on the red wire, and checked continuity from plug to pcm on the pink and brown wire all that checked out and dont know of any other test to do on the wiring side.
pulled the front cover and cam to check the reluctor on the cam and it looks fine as well, cam gear was tight and no front to back movement. Any one have suggestions on what to check? Grounds look good and clean and snug as well.
pulled the front cover and cam to check the reluctor on the cam and it looks fine as well, cam gear was tight and no front to back movement. Any one have suggestions on what to check? Grounds look good and clean and snug as well.
How far apart is it?
It would be a real good idea to closely inspect the tone wheel (the part the cam sensor picks up) on the rear of the cam. If you can, yank it out and compare it real closely to the cam that came out that I assume wasn't giving you any trouble.
Check the shape, sizes, lengths diameter everything. The sensor has to be real close to it to read so if it's smaller or mishaped it wont read properly
It would be a real good idea to closely inspect the tone wheel (the part the cam sensor picks up) on the rear of the cam. If you can, yank it out and compare it real closely to the cam that came out that I assume wasn't giving you any trouble.
Check the shape, sizes, lengths diameter everything. The sensor has to be real close to it to read so if it's smaller or mishaped it wont read properly
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Checking those grounds is always a good idea. I've seen it be an issue many times and it's never safe to assume they are good. I had a suburban in recently that someone rebuild the transmission on and they for some reason loosened those grounds and didn't tighten them all the way. They can also work themselves loose if at any time they were removed and the bolt wasn't tightened enough.
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Verdad Gallardo I'm going to redo the ring terminals on the ground wires wile its apart.
i currently have the cam out to check the tone wheel on the back and the intake off so its easy to get to the sensor
Make sure your wiring is in good shape several inches if not a foot or so up the harness. I've seen similar stuff because the old wiring started to rott out and the wires were bare.
Did you ohm all 3 wires to the computer?
And did this 100% start with the new cam? If so look mostly at the cam.
Did you ohm all 3 wires to the computer?
And did this 100% start with the new cam? If so look mostly at the cam.
I'm a tech and run into your situation sometimes. Not exact situation but a situation where something is off and you start thinking of everything. Keep what changed in mind. No issues until the cam swap and you haven't gotten them to straighten out no matter what you've tried with that cam in there. That logically leads back to the cam itself. You may have to put the old cam back in to test the theory but that's a major beoch just to do a test.
Did you use a caliper and measure the circle on the cam/tone wheel? If the one on your new cam is a hair smaller it may be too far from the sensor for it to accurately read.
There must be something going on with the tone wheel or the cam. Is the new cam magnetized? How about the old one? Try touching a screw driver or something to them and see. I've never checked for this but often wondered if it could cause an issue with a magnetic pick up sensor. I'm just throwing mud at the wall at this point.
What codes are you getting specifically?
Do you have a fluke meter or a high end meter?
Have you looked through the cam sensor hole to the cam to make sure there's no debris or anything that may have gotten shoved back there during the cam install? Big wad of grease/assembly lube or.. who knows what?
If you want to for sure see it use a graphing meter (has a bar graph), I use a Fluke 115, and I know the 78 and 88 also have a bar graph, I'm sure there's others but I don't know them all off the top of my head. You can watch the bar graph while cranking it too and watch the bar flick back and forth near full swing across the screen, but the voltage wont change much because the voltage swing is too fast for the display to reflect but the graph will show it. Spinning it by hand you may be able to see it in voltage but for sure you will on the graph, I've never tried it.
The best thing is an oscilloscope if you have one. But that's $$$$$$$