Judge Judy will **** you up, she drives an LS, she'll tell you your a gonad.

 

IF your using an ARP type bolt you tighten them to a torque spec. if your using a torque to yield bolt you have to torque to a certain # and then do the angle to stretch the bolt, you f'd up.

 

The guy I got it from and another shop that does a lot of LS swaps did that. They said it ended up between 48 and a little over 53/54. One rod came out to 58. That was using three different digital torque wrenches that do torque plus angle and then tell final torque applied.

 

so why did you think 35 was ok?

 

They did that test after the engine blew up to see for themselves if the 35 was right. He said if they came out to 35, he would give me my money back. Said if it was the 50 or so he expected it would come to, it was on me. I am not happy with that.

 

Your not going to get any help here. I wish I knew who sold you the motor so I could send him the link to this thread so when you take him to court he can show the judge what an idiot you are.
I'm not sure what you don't understand about it was your fault.

 

It's on you regardless, You hurt the engine and then drove it for another two weeks and destroyed it completely. You should not be working on engines period!

 

Just registered today! I've been lurking for a while, this thread is pure entertainment. To the OP listen to these guys they are telling you that you messed up. Research is your friend and there is plenty of LS info on the web, especially here on the forums.

 

Please buy a Toyota or Honda......................

 

Like my grandfather used to say, "Stupid is as stupid does.

No excuse 100 percent your fault.
Take responsibility for your actions.

 

Google it.

Bolts or Engine Parts to Torque

Amount to Torque or Turn (Degrees) to:Connecting Rod Bolts - Second Design (First Pass)15 lb ftConnecting Rod Bolts - Second Design (Final Pass)75 degrees

 

15 ft-lbs plus 85 degrees is a factory torque spec from GM.

This makes you the WORST type of person to deal with in the automotive community. You ignored the factory torque spec for a "here is what I do". The bolts broke from pure stupidity and negligence.
This is why everyone here is making fun of you and angry with you. We've all been dicked around by a guy who did something blatantly wrong and wants to blame us for it.
I just had to deal with a guy who bought a truck from me 6 months ago. Last month he swapped out his radiator and refilled the entire coolant system with straight water, which froze and cracked the block.
He blamed me for selling him a truck with a cracked block.

You and him should hang out.

 

 

This guy is the reason that I choose the stuff I sell, and the people I sell to, very carefully.

 

Hate to break it to you OP... You bought a USED engine... that YOU had to retorque lol not the sellers fault.. plus you didn't even take his advise... SMH ...

 

Dude right...

 

You didn't follow his instructions, which if you had done proper research you would have found to be the correct procedure.

Nothing else matters here. You did not torque the rods correctly. Then when it seemed there might be a problem you kept running it until it blew up.
You need to man up and accept responsibility for your actions!

 

Ok, guys, I am coming clean. I was not the buyer. I am the seller. This truly is what he has said. Yesterday, he threatened to take me to court so I told him to do what he needed to do. I wanted to start the thread as the buyer to lay out the groundwork and see what your opinion was. So far, the only two people that say 35 ft/lbs was ok is the buyer and machinist. If you guys have any questions for me, please ask away.

Thanks for your input this far. Yes, I do plan to print this and take it to court.