Rod bolt torque? Engine broken!
02-25-2019, 09:59 PM
#21
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This is the funniest thread I’ve ever read on Tech...got to be a joke!!!
02-25-2019, 10:33 PM
#25
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Do a test,
torque two surviving rod bolts to 15ftlb now mark both of them at the 12 o'clock position. Tighten one of them to 35lbft and the other to 50lbft. Which bolt is closer to 90 degrees/3 o'clock?(i know the the spec is 85degrees but 90 is easy to see and is perfectly fine) i bet 50lbft is almost perfect.
torque two surviving rod bolts to 15ftlb now mark both of them at the 12 o'clock position. Tighten one of them to 35lbft and the other to 50lbft. Which bolt is closer to 90 degrees/3 o'clock?(i know the the spec is 85degrees but 90 is easy to see and is perfectly fine) i bet 50lbft is almost perfect.
02-25-2019, 10:47 PM
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The guy I got it from and another shop that does a lot of LS swaps did that. They said it ended up between 48 and a little over 53/54. One rod came out to 58. That was using three different digital torque wrenches that do torque plus angle and then tell final torque applied.
02-25-2019, 10:56 PM
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They did that test after the engine blew up to see for themselves if the 35 was right. He said if they came out to 35, he would give me my money back. Said if it was the 50 or so he expected it would come to, it was on me. I am not happy with that.
02-25-2019, 11:25 PM
#28
Your not going to get any help here. I wish I knew who sold you the motor so I could send him the link to this thread so when you take him to court he can show the judge what an idiot you are.
I'm not sure what you don't understand about it was your fault.
I'm not sure what you don't understand about it was your fault.
02-26-2019, 01:52 AM
#30
Just registered today! I've been lurking for a while, this thread is pure entertainment. To the OP listen to these guys they are telling you that you messed up. Research is your friend and there is plenty of LS info on the web, especially here on the forums.
02-26-2019, 04:59 AM
#31
02-26-2019, 06:56 AM
#34
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My machinist said on LS engines, he sees them anywhere from 27-35 ft/lbs. The guy I got the engine from along with another guy with a shop said they did some testing and the torque came up to between 48-53 ft/lbs but said they still didn't recommend doing torque only. If I take this guy to court, I want to have something to stick on him.
This is why everyone here is making fun of you and angry with you. We've all been dicked around by a guy who did something blatantly wrong and wants to blame us for it.
I just had to deal with a guy who bought a truck from me 6 months ago. Last month he swapped out his radiator and refilled the entire coolant system with straight water, which froze and cracked the block.
He blamed me for selling him a truck with a cracked block.
You and him should hang out.
02-26-2019, 10:10 AM
#39
You didn't follow his instructions, which if you had done proper research you would have found to be the correct procedure.
Nothing else matters here. You did not torque the rods correctly. Then when it seemed there might be a problem you kept running it until it blew up.
You need to man up and accept responsibility for your actions!
Nothing else matters here. You did not torque the rods correctly. Then when it seemed there might be a problem you kept running it until it blew up.
You need to man up and accept responsibility for your actions!
02-26-2019, 01:07 PM
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Ok, guys, I am coming clean. I was not the buyer. I am the seller. This truly is what he has said. Yesterday, he threatened to take me to court so I told him to do what he needed to do. I wanted to start the thread as the buyer to lay out the groundwork and see what your opinion was. So far, the only two people that say 35 ft/lbs was ok is the buyer and machinist. If you guys have any questions for me, please ask away.
Thanks for your input this far. Yes, I do plan to print this and take it to court.
Thanks for your input this far. Yes, I do plan to print this and take it to court.