Fishmasterdan

Closed Spring Pressure: 160 lb. @ 1.810" Installed Height
Open Spring Pressure: 415 lb. @ .660" lift
Maximum Spring Lift: .660"
Coil Bind 1.015"
These numbers are from texas speed I have not tested them.

Morel Link bars 5294

Push rods are nothing special they are the texas speed hardened ones. 5/16 crome-moly.
I am thinking about upgrading to roller valve rockers and maybe I need bigger pushrods? the TSP salesman told me the 5/16 would be more than enough.
I did reach out to a couple cam folks. One said add 10 degrees to the intake and exhaust and 114+4 108 centerline. The second wanted .675 lift ex and intake add 10 degress also on a 108.

Fishmasterdan

Why do you suppose it pulls fine on the juice to 6800 but peaks N/A at 6k?

Darth_V8r

iTrader: (4)

Good choice on lifters. I would DEFINITELY be running bigger pushrods. Look into Manton series 5 -- 11/32 x .120. On a normal compression ratio (11.5 or lower) I would agree 5/16 is likely fine. You're almost 13:1. Higher cylinder pressures. I would be running as beefy a pushrod as I could fit. Typically I run 11/32 on an 11.5:1 engine just for good measure. You may also want to shim up the springs about 0.020 to gain a bit more seat pressure.
if you do upgrade to roller tips, you'll be heavier over the valve tip, so you'll want to bit more spring pressure to compensate for the mass. 11/32 x .120 is over 2x stiffer than 5/16 x .080 fwiw.
I don't have a good answer for you there. I could only make guesses. but my old 237/245-112.5+2 in my old 346 peaked at 6850 just fine and carried to 7600. And that was a plastic intake, not the carb style you're running. Your cam is already bigger and has a later IVC. So just going to a bigger cam with an even MORE later IVC I don't think will accomplish what you want.

pdxmotorhead

Wild solution suggested based on hearsay,,,, When the exhaust is moving through the system, if there is a pinch point, gasses will exceed the speed of sound, it will "quench" in that pinch point, when your on nitrous the burn is hotter and longer and scavenges in the pipe because its still burning which means a reduction in volume as it leaves the cylinder headed down the pipe. Certain styles of mufflers,, where the gas has to flow through a hole, can restrict so much more than a glass pack.

Think of it like a restrictor plate on a race car, once the flow goes supersonic the shockwave basically closes the diameter of the hole killing your power.

I ain't a physicist,, this is just how it was explained to me.. By a guy who was.. he told me thats part of why the Venturi on a rocket is so important vs the bell size.. mis match and big kaboom.. Or it doesn't make good power.. Its also part of why a 5cut valve job flows so much better than a 3 cut..

YMMV, you may want to carefully look at your exhaust and see of you have any joint of component producing a significant change in size..

Lsbmer

On your Na run ,peak power and peak torque same rpm? Odd
I would look into that . If it pulls on juice higher rpm. Na burn speed maybe to slow. Burn speed to slow.no rpm.
I ran it thru pipemax as well.

Fishmasterdan

Took to a couple speed shops. General consensus is exhaust holding it back like is suggested. The main problem is everyone wants 3k to build a good set of headers. Nothing is commercialy available for my set up. guess I'm gonna have to bite the bullet soon for headers.

Lsbmer

Ex will help scavenging. Did you play with ign on the dyno.like a lot more advance. E85 can take some abuse. Hence the reason they probably said it be a pig na , there is a thing called combustion efficiency. How much the fuel is evaporating/atomizing,burning. Bad efficiency = a pig.The whole reason to dyno is to get combustion efficiency as high as possible,without detno, which will change your volumetric efficiency . More torque earlier in most cases and higher peak hp rpm if it's really off.
If you cant tune it on e85. Try a fuel with less specific gravity. Like vp ms109. Power just may jump alot na. Or just use av gas and 4 ounces of acetone per gallon. About same thing. I would have to look at my dyno notes on the exact amount of acetone to match some of the faster burning fuels.
Fuel with less btu but burning 95% of it, is better then a high btu fuel and only burning 85% of it.
I believe the nitrous is sort doing the same thing .
This is something the dyno only knows.

Fishmasterdan

Lsbmer,
Did play with timing a bit. Anything over 28 degrees and it starts to lose power. Got to make a couple hits. It's definitely likes the juice. picks up a sec on a 100 shot. and 1.3 seconds on a 150.

Lsbmer

If you have access to a dyno. The cheapest thing is to change the fuel and re time/jet it and see what happens . It may surprise you. Just make sure you use a low specific gravity fuel.

Fishmasterdan

I took your advice and ordered some 11/32 push rods. I went ahead and took the valve train apart, remeasured all the pushrods and came up with 7.366 as zero lash. What I found was I had (2) different brand pushrods in it. (2) were stamped MT 7.400 and the rest were TSP 7.400.
Interesting part here. 1 valve and rocker had obvious signs of not being perfect. I measured the pushrods. It was exactly 7.400 inches. I went ahead and measure the rest of the pushrods and they were 7.420 inches but stamped 7.400.

So the out come out of all this is it seems the morels like preload on the heavy side. I ended up ordering rods that gave me a .084 preload. Its was weird the MT pushrods were stamped and measured 7.400 inches and the Texas speed rods were stamped 7.400 but measured 7.420.