did a few searches and came up with these results. worth the read:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...reak-time.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...ine-break.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...rocedures.html
the overall consensus is using conventional over synthetic or break-in oil.

 

I'd dump the Royal Purple out, and put in a dedicated break-in oil. The synthetic base oil isn't as big of an issue as it's made out to be. (especially since RP is just a hydroisomerized group III crude base oil anyway) The problem is the additive package.

1. Royal Purple contains 2,500+ ppm blend of overbased calcium and magnesium detergents. You don't want high amounts of detergents during break-in since they negatively interfere with ring seating. They're trying to mop up carbon deposits from the ring lands that hasn't formed yet. Dedicated break-in oils have less than 500 ppm of detergent which is really just enough to neutralize some slight fuel dilution if the AFR isn't right on the first startup.

2. Royal Purple uses the wrong type of ZDDP for break-in. RP uses a blend of ZDDP with both primary and secondary alkyl groups making it balanced for wear protection and oxidation inhibition for street conditions. We aren't concerned with oxidation inhibition on a new engine. We want the maximum wear protection possible. Dedicated break-in oils use ZDDP with short-chained secondary (high carbon) alkyl groups which activates with very little heat and pressure, making it ideal for protecting a fresh engine on the first startup.

3. Royal Purple contains a decent bit of molybdenum friction modifier. You absolutely want to avoid friction modifiers during break-in. Their job is to provide a sheet of low drag oil film for the rings and bearings to ride on, reducing friction, and freeing up power. This is the exact opposite of what you want during break-in. You need some friction between parts in order for them to find uniformity.

4. Royal Purple contains trace amounts (2-4%) of esters, particularly polyol ester. You want to avoid these during break-in for the same reason as the friction modifiers. Esters are highly polar and will cling to parts, bolstering the oil film, but hurting break-in.

If it was me, I'd dump out the RP into a clean container or gallon jugs to use later. Acquire some dedicated break-in oil. I prefer Driven BR30, but Amsoil and Lucas break-in oil will work well also.

If you cannot find any dedicated break-in oil locally and absolutely can't wait to have it shipped in, then I'd find a couple gallons of Rotella T1 straight 30 grade and a bottle of Lucas ZDDP break-in additive. It's still far from ideal due to the additive package of Rotella, but it's better than the alternative.

Comparison of additive packages... (all specs are in parts per million)

Additive......Royal Purple 5w-30......Driven BR30

Calcium..................3150............480
Magnesium.............15................0
Phosphorus............1100............2400
Zinc.........................1250...........2850
Molybdenum...........110..............0
Boron.......................20...............0

 

I think it is a good idea to drain the oil after about 1 minute of the initial fire, I use cheap non detergent oil, then again after a few more minutes, then cut open the filter, not with a sawzall,
I use wire cutters and just clip off the top, some work involved but you don't introduce any foreign material you have to be confused with, then put in some good oil and drive it around
after 10 or 20 miles take that filter off and cut it open, if all good, new filter and top off oil and enjoy all the money you just spent. Thats just what I do, most probably
don't want to spend the extra money.

 

 

Yes, just save the oil and use it later. Generally we wouldn't recommend synthetic for the first about 2500 miles. In a race engine, a blow by meter is used and when it stabilizes, it tells you everything is seated and ready for synthetic.

 

 

In a street car, we recommend your your first oil change at 500 miles. Run that to 2500 and then it's ok to go synthetic. We also recommend cutting the filter open at 100 miles and inspecting the pleats...just replace the filter then.

 

 

I don't bother with mileage with my engines. I break them in fast and hard. I don't let it idle, and I don't baby it. If the engine is running, the rpm is up and under a load. Like a new baseball glove, I like to beat the snot out of it to break it in.

Before 30 minutes run time, I'm already at WOT redline pulls and tuning. I dump the break-in oil after tuning and inspect the oil and filter. If all is well, I pour in the oil of choice and send it. The break-in is done.

I don't wait any certain mileage or time to run synthetic after that. Once break-in is done, it's good to go. One engine I did was run-in hard and tuned by 25 minutes. I then dumped the break-in oil and put in a 0w-10 PAO/POE synthetic. Three seasons and still has under 2% leakdown.

 

 

I'd put the break-in on hold until you get back. Keep the engine on a stand, fog it, and wrap it. It'll be there when you get back. That's what I'd do.

 

As mentioned, drain & save the RP.

Add breakin oil and briefly turn it over and run for about a minute (also as previously mentioned).
Drain and discard the breakin oil.

Refill with more breakin oil and proceed with your breakin procedures.

PM me your physical address and I'll send you a .

Thank you for your service.

 

 

+1 ! Hear, hear!

 

Run some decent oil to start like everyone said. I personally went with Valvoline VR1 10w30 for the first 2 oil cycles. I did the first at 75 miles per my builder and tuner's recommendation, then again at 500. I have regular Pennzoil in there now then will switch to a Mobil 1 at 2500ish.