head stud issue
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 3,699
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From: Wilmington, DE
head stud issue used head studs, use block, im reading the arp instructions and they say you thread the stud into the block dry......well this block has stuff of some sorts in the bolt hols. i spent a long time getting he old gunk off the studs and they look new. i haven't really attempted to clean the threads in the block due to not having an old bolt, and i was threading in the stud with the drill multiple times to help maybe clear the threads a little. i would say half of them hand threaded in and i could feel when the hit the bottom, 1/4 of them required an allen wrench with a little effort to get all the way down, and the remainder gave me some issues. 1 i spent half an hour going 1/8 turn at a time going back and forth until i got it down, took a lot of effort from a 3 inch allen wrench but i wanted to take my time and not mess anything up.
so there are 6 that i cant tell where "hand tight" is due to them being a little tough to get down in to begin with, my plan is to measure the neighboring bolts and how far they come out of the bolt hole just average them out and use the allen wrench to get it to that length.....anything wrong with that?
so there are 6 that i cant tell where "hand tight" is due to them being a little tough to get down in to begin with, my plan is to measure the neighboring bolts and how far they come out of the bolt hole just average them out and use the allen wrench to get it to that length.....anything wrong with that?
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 3,699
Likes: 168
From: Wilmington, DE
the differences between neighboring studs is small. like example is stud on the left is 61.05mm and stud on right is 61.23 so just somewhere between the 2 should be fine right?
across each bank the difference between the highest and lowest that i can hand tight is about .35mm
across each bank the difference between the highest and lowest that i can hand tight is about .35mm
Last edited by Floorman279; Mar 16, 2019 at 12:27 PM. Reason: .....
You really should use a thread chaser. They should go in nice and smooth all the way to the bottom. I broke a stud in the block putting my heads on and thought I was screwed but luckily I was able to just stick the busted part in the hole and twisted the broken end right out. Clean threads make all the difference
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 3,699
Likes: 168
From: Wilmington, DE
ok, i did get them all in tho, you think i should pull the tight ones out and redo it?
by thread chaser do you mean a tap? i was afraid to do that in fear of messing up the threads, and i figured a brass gun bore cleaner could harm the threads
by thread chaser do you mean a tap? i was afraid to do that in fear of messing up the threads, and i figured a brass gun bore cleaner could harm the threads
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 3,699
Likes: 168
From: Wilmington, DE
i kept making progress thats why i kept "massaging" the tough ones on., it was also difficult for that one because i was using a half sized allen wrench not a full size one on purpose....
Last edited by Floorman279; Mar 16, 2019 at 07:10 PM. Reason: ......
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TECH Junkie
Joined: Nov 2013
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From: White Bear, Mn
Tap is sharper/ cleaner
Chaser is less of a angle/ duller.
A tap is made for making new threads in a pre drilled hole. If used in existing threads it will remove some of the threads causing rocking of the bolt or stripping of the threads when tightened.
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 3,699
Likes: 168
From: Wilmington, DE
can you show me a link of a thread chaser you are talking about? i keep thinking tap which again, i felt it was safer to keep working it down instead of putting a tap in.......any harm now that they are all down in?
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 3,699
Likes: 168
From: Wilmington, DE
A tap and chaser are different.
Tap is sharper/ cleaner
Chaser is less of a angle/ duller.
A tap is made for making new threads in a pre drilled hole. If used in existing threads it will remove some of the threads causing rocking of the bolt or stripping of the threads when tightened.
Tap is sharper/ cleaner
Chaser is less of a angle/ duller.
A tap is made for making new threads in a pre drilled hole. If used in existing threads it will remove some of the threads causing rocking of the bolt or stripping of the threads when tightened.
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 3,699
Likes: 168
From: Wilmington, DE
ooo ok i see it now....so what advice do you guys give now? i pulled the arp instructions from online and it says use the chaser for proper thread engagement and torque readings, but im just confused as to how that is relevant if the stud wont turn much when i torque the nut on it.
Last edited by Floorman279; Mar 16, 2019 at 07:40 PM. Reason: .....
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 3,699
Likes: 168
From: Wilmington, DE
i already knew before going into this not to use the tap, im curious as if im ok to go since they are all down in or to order the chaser and pull the 6 that i couldn't hand tighten and chase them next weekend. when i say couldn't hand tighten, i meant it took little effort from the small allen wrench to turn all but 1 which took a little effort, and 1 which after a lot of working it took a little effort
Last edited by Floorman279; Mar 16, 2019 at 07:50 PM. Reason: .....
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 3,699
Likes: 168
From: Wilmington, DE
i could see that with bolts, but didn't think that would be an issue with studs where the stud really wont move much while torquing. guess ill chase...
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 3,699
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From: Wilmington, DE
so i completely forgot about this extra arp bolt i had lying around from awhile ago, and i googled making a chaser out of it. i tested it on one of the ones i was able to hand tightened and got a little gunk out. i then used it on the problem hole, and got it a few rotations by hand and pulled it out, had lots of gray gunk on it but when i wiped it off i had super small shiny metal looking pieces, not a ton but enough to get me wondering if i messed the threads up at all when i was using the allen wrench......i then completely cleaned the bolt and tried it on another of the hand done studs and also got some of these metal looking shiny pieces......any idea if any products used on threads could look like this? possible its some of the bolt i just grinded down? on the positive i worked it in and that big problem hole i can now thread the stud by hand.
the M11x2.0 thread is uncommon and finding taps is hard .....i find none made by the quality tap makers ....best bet is the ARP chaser even tho it is $$$
when installin my ARP studs one hole gave me fits like you no matter how much i chased it
when installin my ARP studs one hole gave me fits like you no matter how much i chased it
Last edited by sjsingle1; Mar 17, 2019 at 03:18 AM.
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 3,699
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From: Wilmington, DE
good news, first time using studs and all or torqued to 70.......
one issue, i should have sold these and made some money.....then bought the new standard studs and been up 50-100 bucks......these are not the black studs, they are the shiny CA625 material meaning i need to go back out and torque these to 100........according to the arp instructions. the top of each stud says 625. can i just say leave it ar 70 since im not boosting rather than retorquing to 100? im scared of torquing head bolts
one issue, i should have sold these and made some money.....then bought the new standard studs and been up 50-100 bucks......these are not the black studs, they are the shiny CA625 material meaning i need to go back out and torque these to 100........according to the arp instructions. the top of each stud says 625. can i just say leave it ar 70 since im not boosting rather than retorquing to 100? im scared of torquing head bolts
TECH Resident
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 926
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From: Central Texas
I just fought the same issue with a LM7 block I am re-doing, the studs wouldn't screw all the way in no matter how many times I chased the threads, I finally bought a tap just in case the threads weren't threaded in the block all the way(they were) after much head scratching I figured out the little extension on the bottom of the thread of the stud was too long not allowing the stud to bottom out. I shortened this little appendage till the thread height of the protruding stud was correct with the other studs and was able to get the correct thread depth. What a PITA...
