new build running warmer than necessary
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 3,699
Likes: 168
From: Wilmington, DE
new build running warmer than necessary aluminum 427 in my 2000 camaro, low mile stock water pump, new ac telco 186 thermostat, stock ls1 radiator, 4 corner coolant crossover
so before we dig further, i have about 200 miles on it and hasn't went above 212, so im assuming the fans can keep it from going higher. i have a 4 corner coolant crossover. if there are any air bubbles in the system, they will just quickly go to the crossovers and not stay inside the heads correct? can we assume that by now it got all the air out of itself?
assuming no air bubbles, the car runs anywhere from 194 to 212 according to my scanner, sometimes it can hold 194 in traffic, same day a few minutes later it will creep up to 212. also i have noticed that if it gets up to 212, it sometimes cant bring it back down to 194 when cruising at 50 or above for a few minutes. i have no ac and am running the SSRA. could it be that the stock ls1 radiator is on the edge of its cooling ability for my setup? i have read that many on here like to drill a few holes in the thermostat which i didn't do, but dont think that will help this situation........should i just save myself the hassle and skip the LT1 radiator and keep an eye out for a used be cool? even the low level radiator they recommend for 450 hp should be much better than the stock ls1 piece.
so before we dig further, i have about 200 miles on it and hasn't went above 212, so im assuming the fans can keep it from going higher. i have a 4 corner coolant crossover. if there are any air bubbles in the system, they will just quickly go to the crossovers and not stay inside the heads correct? can we assume that by now it got all the air out of itself?
assuming no air bubbles, the car runs anywhere from 194 to 212 according to my scanner, sometimes it can hold 194 in traffic, same day a few minutes later it will creep up to 212. also i have noticed that if it gets up to 212, it sometimes cant bring it back down to 194 when cruising at 50 or above for a few minutes. i have no ac and am running the SSRA. could it be that the stock ls1 radiator is on the edge of its cooling ability for my setup? i have read that many on here like to drill a few holes in the thermostat which i didn't do, but dont think that will help this situation........should i just save myself the hassle and skip the LT1 radiator and keep an eye out for a used be cool? even the low level radiator they recommend for 450 hp should be much better than the stock ls1 piece.
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 3,699
Likes: 168
From: Wilmington, DE
am i correct that any air bubbles that may still be in here should be gone by now? this is one of my main concerns because there really isn't much else it could be in my opinion besides air or radiator
im seeing that any ebay aluminum radiator should ge a good choice.
im seeing that any ebay aluminum radiator should ge a good choice.
TECH Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 22,295
Likes: 3,617
From: Central Cal.
I would think that with all 4 corners being "ventilated", there should be no more air pockets. Does the OEM radiator have a bunch of miles on it? If so I be it's partially clogged with age-related glop/gunk/corrosion.
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 3,699
Likes: 168
From: Wilmington, DE
only 18 years and 107,000 miles. i think ill start here and then drill my thermostat.
I’m running a Griffin setup with dual Spal fans in an integrated shroud. I cruise at 180 degrees and it never sees above 205 in traffic. I don’t have any holes drilled in my t-stat, but I do like the mod.
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 3,699
Likes: 168
From: Wilmington, DE
the fans i don't need to worry about since im not a swap correct? as long as i get one that will allow my stockers to mount to it
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Did u actually check the opening temp of that Tstat? In a boiling pot of water with a kprobe?
odds are that 186 Tstat actually opens around 195ish and it’s acting normal. Temps will rise above that till they equal out. Only way to lower it is to lower the Tstat opening temp and then you will know if your cooling system is up to the task. Your rad is prob not enough, eBay rads are junk, the cores are like 5/8” wide vs a $200 Afco or Howe with dual 1” cores (much better).
Also so if your cruising above 50 and the temp drops that means your airflow to the rad is good. The fans are about useless above 40mph and after that it’s all airflow being forced in at speed, so if you have a air dam or something it’s working correctly if the temps drop.
Odds are your Going to need a lower Tstat, rad upgrade and possible fan upgrade to drop those temps. Also it depends on when the rad fans are set to kick on. Make sure you set them to the Tstat opening temp. So a 160 Tstat set the fan 1 to 180on 170off, fan 2 190on 180off. Setting the fans below Tstat opening temp the engine will never reach and your fans will always be on and doing nothing.
Drilling the Tstat only helps with air purging and it should be at the 12oclock position when installed (small 3/16” hole). But the stock Tstat has a hole already.
odds are that 186 Tstat actually opens around 195ish and it’s acting normal. Temps will rise above that till they equal out. Only way to lower it is to lower the Tstat opening temp and then you will know if your cooling system is up to the task. Your rad is prob not enough, eBay rads are junk, the cores are like 5/8” wide vs a $200 Afco or Howe with dual 1” cores (much better).
Also so if your cruising above 50 and the temp drops that means your airflow to the rad is good. The fans are about useless above 40mph and after that it’s all airflow being forced in at speed, so if you have a air dam or something it’s working correctly if the temps drop.
Odds are your Going to need a lower Tstat, rad upgrade and possible fan upgrade to drop those temps. Also it depends on when the rad fans are set to kick on. Make sure you set them to the Tstat opening temp. So a 160 Tstat set the fan 1 to 180on 170off, fan 2 190on 180off. Setting the fans below Tstat opening temp the engine will never reach and your fans will always be on and doing nothing.
Drilling the Tstat only helps with air purging and it should be at the 12oclock position when installed (small 3/16” hole). But the stock Tstat has a hole already.
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 3,699
Likes: 168
From: Wilmington, DE
Did u actually check the opening temp of that Tstat? In a boiling pot of water with a kprobe?
odds are that 186 Tstat actually opens around 195ish and it’s acting normal. Temps will rise above that till they equal out. Only way to lower it is to lower the Tstat opening temp and then you will know if your cooling system is up to the task. Your rad is prob not enough, eBay rads are junk, the cores are like 5/8” wide vs a $200 Afco or Howe with dual 1” cores (much better).
Also so if your cruising above 50 and the temp drops that means your airflow to the rad is good. The fans are about useless above 40mph and after that it’s all airflow being forced in at speed, so if you have a air dam or something it’s working correctly if the temps drop.
Odds are your Going to need a lower Tstat, rad upgrade and possible fan upgrade to drop those temps. Also it depends on when the rad fans are set to kick on. Make sure you set them to the Tstat opening temp. So a 160 Tstat set the fan 1 to 180on 170off, fan 2 190on 180off. Setting the fans below Tstat opening temp the engine will never reach and your fans will always be on and doing nothing.
Drilling the Tstat only helps with air purging and it should be at the 12oclock position when installed (small 3/16” hole). But the stock Tstat has a hole already.
odds are that 186 Tstat actually opens around 195ish and it’s acting normal. Temps will rise above that till they equal out. Only way to lower it is to lower the Tstat opening temp and then you will know if your cooling system is up to the task. Your rad is prob not enough, eBay rads are junk, the cores are like 5/8” wide vs a $200 Afco or Howe with dual 1” cores (much better).
Also so if your cruising above 50 and the temp drops that means your airflow to the rad is good. The fans are about useless above 40mph and after that it’s all airflow being forced in at speed, so if you have a air dam or something it’s working correctly if the temps drop.
Odds are your Going to need a lower Tstat, rad upgrade and possible fan upgrade to drop those temps. Also it depends on when the rad fans are set to kick on. Make sure you set them to the Tstat opening temp. So a 160 Tstat set the fan 1 to 180on 170off, fan 2 190on 180off. Setting the fans below Tstat opening temp the engine will never reach and your fans will always be on and doing nothing.
Drilling the Tstat only helps with air purging and it should be at the 12oclock position when installed (small 3/16” hole). But the stock Tstat has a hole already.
thanks for the input. so you are saying that a lower thermostat will be needed to accomplish a good solid cooling temp for this? if the radiator is the problem, are you saying that it will still go into the low 200s with the 186 thermostat? i know a warmer engine is better for emissions but i also thought ls stuff operates best a little under 200
TECH Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 22,295
Likes: 3,617
From: Central Cal.
IF the radiator and cooling system are all doing as they should, you do NOT need a 160 degree thermostat. A proper cooling system will keep whichever temp is determined by the thermostat. It will be more efficient at a higher temp.
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 3,699
Likes: 168
From: Wilmington, DE
yea i thought this statement was true......i will shoot to try to keep this temp between 185-200
TECH Resident
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 967
Likes: 53
From: Winter Haven FL
The factory likes LS type engines at 205 ish. There's another thread on here talking about making more power when you get to about 215. The 160 target is a holdover from the carb motor days and isn't needed with these motors.
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 3,699
Likes: 168
From: Wilmington, DE
So with warmer coolant temps I assume the ls should be running an oil that doesn't get thin like a 30 weight does at the warmer temps. This is something else I have to research here.
Ok so what should I do here......is inconsistent coolant temps in the 194 to 212 range a bad thing? If i swap to a different radiator than it will probably hold at 194. Do u recommend we find a way to maybe get it to hold a consistent 205 to 210?
Ok so what should I do here......is inconsistent coolant temps in the 194 to 212 range a bad thing? If i swap to a different radiator than it will probably hold at 194. Do u recommend we find a way to maybe get it to hold a consistent 205 to 210?
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 3,699
Likes: 168
From: Wilmington, DE
I'm starting to think maybe I leave the cooling alone. I think I remember seeing somewhere that a thermostat doesn't fully open until 20 or 30 degrees after it begins to open, so simply put, my coolant fluctuations could just be a normal thing from my thermostat opening more and closing more and getting it to hold at a specific temp could be difficult and unnecessary.
If i went to say a 160, I may hold a consistent 185 to 190 but from what I'm seeing may be a little too cool for my application.
Am I getting the wrong idea about this?
If i went to say a 160, I may hold a consistent 185 to 190 but from what I'm seeing may be a little too cool for my application.
Am I getting the wrong idea about this?
