99 Black Bird T/A

iTrader: (4)

+1 Building a car is always more fun than buying a,car that's already been built.

01CamaroSSTx

iTrader: (3)

Get help from the right people and don't trust your stuff to just anyone would be my advice. Good luck with your build!

Chris97b

iTrader: (1)

It's less about the motor, and more about everything else. I agree that the motor basically runs or doesn't, but just because the engine is running doesn't mean that the brakes work, the steering is worth a ****, or the wheels won't fall off over 10mph. I guess I could re-word that to say phase 1 is running engine, and phase 2 is road-worthy car.

And yes, I know, I could easily toss a junkyard motor in and have it running by the weekend. I could also just go buy a running car. But what's the fun in that? Plus, as I said I don't want to have to go through it again. I'd rather build a solid shortblock now, and change out heads/intake/cam/whatever else later than have to pull the motor again or get back into the bottom end.

Ls7colorado

iTrader: (3)

Welll that’s the thing, any LS already has a solid shortblock from the get go lol. At least till the 600-700 rwhp range with good tune of course. But once again, not my money.
you will love it no matter witch rout you take

Chris97b

iTrader: (1)

Ok, I've been doing some more bench racing, curious if you guys think this sounds like a reasonable setup?

LQ4 408ci
821/823 (L92/L99/LS3) heads
Johnson 2110 Lifters
TSP .660" PAC dual springs
TSP Pushrods
Rocker trunion upgrade
C5R Timing Chain
High pressure oil pump
ARP bolts/studs
LS3 Intake
92mm TB
104mm Lid
Racetronix RXP255
Speed Engineering 1 7/8 headers
Speed Engineering 3" True duals

I figure this should get me in the ballpark of 450-500rwhp, and is a solid shortblock if I decide to change gears later. From what I'm figuring a set of -5cc dish pistons put this right at 11:1 CR which seems ideal for an N/A street car on 93 pump gas. Couple questions:

TSP 100mm MAF, or just delete it and go SD?

Any cam recommendations for this combo? Don't want to leave too much on the table, but it's a street car first, so decent manners and low/midrange are favorable above all out top end.

Ls7colorado

iTrader: (3)

summit 8711
would be excellent choices but would still leave a little room on the table for a N/A 408 imo

But since your not on a tight budget Id call TSP, and ask what they recommend for your application
there stage 4 Ls3 cam looks lovely

either one would put you over your HP goal and still maintain plenty of power down low with a big 408
you will need a good tuner though

01CamaroSSTx

iTrader: (3)

Talk to Ellie at HPC in Houston and he uses TSP for his cam grinds. That build sounds similar to what's sitting on my engine stand except only a 3.622 crank and somewhere around 12.3:1 and not pump gas friendly.

99 Black Bird T/A

iTrader: (4)

LQ4 408ci - whos rotating assembly? I like Wiseco pistons for strokers.

821/823 (L92/L99/LS3) heads - it's inexpensive to get excellent port work for ~$1,000 or so, with excellent springs etc, so in reality it's like~ $600 for ported heads since you'd need a spring package anyway. Check out what Reher-Morrison and Darin Morgan offer along with others.

Johnson 2110 Lifters -A+

TSP .660" PAC dual springs - spend a little mire and GWT a great set of ported LS3 heads with similar spring package

TSP Pushrods - ok

Rocker trunion upgrade Which one? Some of them are border line junk. CHE, Smith Bros, WS6 Store, BTR etc are good from what I've read.

C5R Timing Chain very nice

High pressure oil pump - sure

ARP bolts/studs - sure, nice parts

LS3 Intake - very good intake but will get serious benefit from a Rick Crawford Radius Rod style modification. That extra flow will be needed with a 408 and good ported heads. GPI also does similar mods to the LS3 intake.

92mm TB - suggest getting it ported and matched to radius rod LS3 intake

104mm Lid excellent lid, A+ for a lid

Racetronix RXP255 - sounds good to 550whp to 600 whp

Speed Engineering 1 7/8 headers nice budget friendly choice, money well spent.

Speed Engineering 3" True duals nice budget friendly choice, money well spent as long as you'll be ok with loud

I'd add an under drive pulley/dampener too. Maybe some heat shielding under the intake too.

I figure this should get me in the ballpark of 450-500rwhp, and is a solid shortblock if I decide to change gears later. From what I'm figuring a set of -5cc dish pistons put this right at 11:1 CR which seems ideal for an N/A street car on 93 pump gas.

With 93 octane gas and good Tuning some folks run 12 to 1 or even a hair over. I've ran 11.3 & 11.5 on the street with on issue for many years. My carb'd iron block 72 vette runs 10.85 to 1 with no issues. I'd suggest shooting for 11.5 to 11.8 with an NA LS

Couple questions:

TSP 100mm MAF, or just delete it and go SD?

Any cam recommendations for this combo? Don't want to leave too much on the table, but it's a street car first, so decent manners and low/midrange are favorable above all out top end.

I think a lot is being left on the table probably 30whp to 50 whp between the compression (go up), cylinders (port them) and intake(radius rods) as mentioned above. I think those factors could affect cam selection. Something like the 237/245 Darin Morgan spec'd fir my 416 would probably make a very nice daily driver cam for the 408. Maybe add or reduce a little duration depending on how critical daily driver manners matter, possible more that more split would help too. I'm sure Darin Morgan, Tony Mamo brother cam guru could spec an excellent cam for your application.

If you have an outstanding tuner available SD sounds good otherwise I'd stay with the MAF.

Best wishes with your project!