A Racetronix pump and hotwire kit would be a good supporting mod to add.

 

Lifters were Comp cams 850-16 lifters
Cam was a Comp cams LSR 231/239 with a 113LSA
Springs were BTR double valve springs.

 

I would run 3.73's with a 4000 + converter. If going with a yank I would go with the PT series over the ss but both are very nice converters. The PT series will have a bit better efficiency and better shift extensions.

Here is my setup with a Pt4400, 3.73's and the setup in my sig. 7100 rpm shift points. This is from 45 mph to about 115 mph. At wot my speedo is slow/ delayed but you will get the picture.

 

Agree and if you decide to do that I've got a brand new (package unopened) set I'll sell cheap. I got it before I found out I had to get the block bored, now I need one with a bigger bore size.

Also, don't see anything in your list that requires a high pressure pump. Too high pressure wastes power and makes it more likely the engine will use oil.

 

Best get some good heads too.
No, you dont need a high pressure pump
Burn the 10 bolt. Get a 12, 9 or a s60

 

What intake? What's your desired rpm range and what is the intended purpose of the vehicle? Does it need to pass a sniffer? Does it need to be within sound regulations for your town and will you drive it a lot? We need more info.

 

I had a Yank TP4400 in a daily driver many years ago and loved it. It was insane on a roll. As long as the lock up works properly on the highway which mine did, you won't even notice how big the converter is.

 

Ya? Well you'll notice it everywhere else. Also, your trans will notice it too when its building excessive amounts of heat espescially in the summer days.

 

Pretty mis-matched combo, will be leaving alot on the table from both a drivability and performance perspective...

 

You also dont build around a cam. You find desired rpm range get a head based on that. Match cam to the head.

 

Dont use melling high volume only high pressure
Use the tsunami cam instead of ms3
Add 255lph racetronix pump
The rest is good
And ditch the slp. Use the ftp 98mm lid.

 

My trans runs no warmer than 165 deg. in summer heat and that's driving around in 3rd where my converter does not lock. A nice cooler setup is all you need. I run my car on a road course in August heat and never see over 200 deg.

Nothing wrong with a loose converter. You need to match your converter to power band just as much as heads. This loose converter/ heat thing is blown WAY out of proportion. You don't put some low tight stall in a vehicle that does not match the setup because of a little heat.

You can't say build around heads then throw some low stall converter in there that does not match the combo.
Even that cam you recommended should be running a 4000 stall.

 

A couple things I would add:
1.I saw no mention of a built trans, the stock 4l60 likely wont last long if you continue forward with this build
2. Providing you utilize a good lock up converter and tune the car correctly, you can tame a pretty large cam down and still retain great drivabilty and fuel millage
3. We use the Melling 10296 and have not had a single issue in any of the builds we have done here in house.
4. while I agree the Johnson lifters are a better choice if the budget allows, however the ls7 lifters are just fine for a build like this.
5. I do agree a looser stall should be used with a cam of that size.

Let me know if there is anything we can help you with.

 

Unless you want to rob hp/tq from your setup...stay away from high pressure oil pumps. A ported LS6 will do the job.

 

If Auto... 10 bolt will do Ok. Not saying is best, but I will hold. I've done like 20-30 high 10 passes on stock 10 bolt.

 

No, 10 bolt is junk. Just because you were lucky doesn't mean he will be. It's a weak rear that has no business in an fbody. Replace it now before it breaks and God forbid takes something else with it.

 

Unless it's a drag car the 10 bolt is perfectly fine in an auto. 6 speed is a different story. The shock of the clutch hit is too much for the 10 boot. Plenty of auto 10 bolt cars have been heated on with no issues. Money better spent elsewhere unless it's a drag car.

 

Nope, 10 bolt is garbage. I dont care how many people run 10 bolts around here it's a weak rear and that's that. I broke mine in my old budget build making only 370 peak wheel torque when it hooked on the street. Rebuilt it with aftermarket axles, TA cover and new gears and had it professionally built 3 times...why? Because everytime it howled like a airplane when cruising. Got sick of spending money on it and bought a heavy normal 9 inch from quick performance. Easy to rebuild, its quiet and won't break.

Not to mention, how many 10 bolt rears do you people go through? Three? Four? Its physically too small to handle the high torque loads of a built LS and sticky tires. Period.

 

So everyone should just dump 2-3k into their fbody for a rear end even if they don't race? You really have no clue. I didn't break a 10 bolt at 600whp in a 6 speed....or 550whp in a stalled auto. Neither have many many on this site. Sorry you broke yours, but not everyone is you.

 

Wasn't aware that a modified ls1 with an ms3 cam wasn't intended to be raced. Not to mention there are probably over a hundred threads made just on this site alone about 10 bolt failures and people trying to strengthen them. Its documented fact that the 10 bolt is a pile of junk.