"The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten.” That's my mantra with hot rodding from 35 years of being involved

The TEA LS6 S2 start at $1550 with your casting. $350 to $400 for LS6/799's/243's heads, $1900 to $2,000. Probably more like $500 to $700 more depending on configuration.


I seldom look for the least expensive way, more focused on building with longevity in mind for the long term daily drivers with my own cars. I'm willing to pay the extra cost for a company that checks the details carefully. I'm not speaking against others just speaking based on my direct experience with the TEA products. Have had two cars with TEA heads.

TEA's demonstrated the the quality machine work and build quality will hold up for 130,000+ miles of daily driving over 15 years with performance use and that they are still good for more. To me that's worth it. However if the goal is to use the most inexpensive parts that's not going to be a fresh set of TEA S2 LS6 heads. Maybe a set of TEA Stage 1 or 2 5.3's or Stage 1 LS6 would be more suitable on cost.

In any case, I hope you will contact Geoff at EPS to discuss cam selection for your build. I'm sure he can also suggest an excellent and appropriate set of cylinder heads.

BTW - that Darin Morgan/Reher-Morrison LT1 intake is sweet! Thank you for sharing!

 

PRC is the best bang for the buck period.
TEA is the best I HAVE SEEN Period at the track. Numbers dont lie but people do.

 

If you dont have 243/799 heads on hand then get the as cast prc 225 heads. You can call any cam manufacturer and get a cam like the thunder racing ones but with improved modern lobes.

 

Cam Motion Titan 1 looks like a good candidate ... .586/.578 218/222 @ 112

 

So another consideration (and why I'm geared to trading off performance for improved drivability) is that I want to be limited to a 11.5 1/4 mile so I don't have to throw in a rollbar.

 

LS6 topend, full bolt ons and a 4000 stall, 11.50s with ease, oh and a good tune

 

Not me. I went about 20k and pulled the motor cause the bottom end was toast. I think it woulda gone that long

 

Not quite, if its the 8706 thats a bigger cam. 230/226 vs 218/227.

Cam, Converter, Tires...should do 11's.

The WS6store high lift hotcam is also good. I run it with no regrets other than a mail order tune doesn't quite cut it. You know how motorcycle guys say "a slip on is a slip on is a slip on"?....thats what territory you get into with all these smaller shelf cams. So I think you'd have to atleast maximize lift to match heads to get the best results.

Just keep in mind your car will probably never do internet times or internet dyno numbers, and youll never be disappointed.

 

I was referring to the Stage II Truck swap cam #8701 which is a Hot Cam clone. Sorry for the confusion!

 

My 99 TA did 60,000+ miles on a set of dual 987 springs on TEA 5.3 S2 heads with a 224/224 XER cam

The springs were ready to be replaced down ~ 20 pounds in pressure except one that wa down about ~35 if I recall correctly. The retainers were beat to crap after 120,000 miles.

Mike Norris Motorsports put in a set of BTR platinum springs and hardware. The engine was still running great when pulled for the new 416.

 

I have a CNC'd 243s Cam BTR Stage 3 with Dual Valve Springs and Trunnin Upgrade with a Circle D 4000 rpms stall... Car is pretty drive able in any kinds of situations. Maybe the only annoying one is going uphill as you really need to floor it for it to go. Other than that. It runs good. Obviously the idle is a bit rough, but not particuarly annoying from the inside, specially with the cutout closed.

 

I have the Titan 2 in a 6 speed car and it does drive like stock. No bucking or surging and idles with the turn of the key. Stock 243 heads on it. In an auto it would drive even better and with even a small stall would hit your goals. It pulls to 7k no problems. I would recommend it or the Ghost cam seems to be working really well for some. Don't over cam, but also don't be afraid of lift and spring life like you dealt with in the 70's. With all of that said, your tuner will make or break the way the car runs. I had a Futral F13 with a 3600 stall that drove like stock (wife took it to get groceries). Others can't get basic stuff to idle and run right. I'd worry less about the cam and more about whose tuning it.

PS....#inb4boltonsonly&camsaredumb

 

I may go there, lol.

Heads, stock cam. Bump CR to 11.5:1. E85.

(converter, ewp, udp)

 

Interesting...

5.3L +60hp w/LS9 Cam & LS3 Springs Swap

 

What about prc 2.5 5.3 heads and a custom tsp grind for single pac 1218 springs. We did 222/226 113+3 .600 .600 with some stock 243 heads in a c5z with headers and it made 415 for stock heads that's great. Very smooth grind and manners on tsp 353 lobes. Pat g spec cam.

 

That's awfully close to the Cam Motion Titan 2. 222/226 112.

 

Well I noticed my balancer wobbling today, So fixing with an ATI 10% UD damper. Taking the opportunity to have my Mamo ported Fast92 intake & Mamo ported LS2 throttle body installed, too.

Cam & heads likely this from post #5.

 

I put that same intake combo on a 132K miles SBE 99 C5 and made 370/370 With 1 7/8 ARH LTs and
catted X, BORLA Box muffler and Stingers, and a good tune. Wicked throttle response everywhere.

That combo on a SBE LS6 will add 15+lb' from 2500 RPM up and 15+ RWHP from
5000-6500 RPM and can take you to mid 11s with just the converter even with stock
heads and cam, provided your tires and suspension are set up at least half-way.
Will you do a pre and post Dyno?

 

That's a great recomendation as well. What intake & tb did that combo have if you remember?

 

Most Likely especially with looking at sub .600 lift cams.

I do know that a great valve job is the key to getting the most out of any heads, and Tonys proprietary
VJ is an especially big deal on his MMS Sportsmen 223s wich start life as a TFS 220 as cast and flow
VERY Close to his fully CNCd 220s when he is done for a significant $avings.