Rod bearings too tight
#1
Rod bearings too tight
Hello guys, rebuilding a stock C5 LS1 (yes bone stock rebuild). Just a normal car... no racing. I id not have a meter angle gauge to torque the connecting rods... I used the sharpie method... but now that i recall i thinks i went 15ft-lb +100-120° instead of the 15ft-lb +75° it has to be.
My question is would this bring a problem because the oil clearance now is too tight?? Should I use a lower weight oil? Or is this okk? (The pic is what i got before install at 15 + 75ish°)
My question is would this bring a problem because the oil clearance now is too tight?? Should I use a lower weight oil? Or is this okk? (The pic is what i got before install at 15 + 75ish°)
#2
ModSquad
iTrader: (6)
Explain the 15 ft lbs + 100 - 120*
You’re saying that you went anywhere from 100 to 120 degrees?
You’re saying that you went anywhere from 100 to 120 degrees?
#3
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (5)
First, you should spend a few bucks and have that crank polished, it’s not that much to have it done and makes for a much nicer accurate surface.
Toss that plasti-gauge. Bolt and torque your rods up with the bearings you intend to use, have your local machinist measure them with a dial bore gauge, subtract the the crank journal measurement and KNOW exactly what have. This way you’ll know if you need to add/subtract clearance using different bearing shells and what oil pump you should use. Plasti-gauge is so high school auto shop.
Toss that plasti-gauge. Bolt and torque your rods up with the bearings you intend to use, have your local machinist measure them with a dial bore gauge, subtract the the crank journal measurement and KNOW exactly what have. This way you’ll know if you need to add/subtract clearance using different bearing shells and what oil pump you should use. Plasti-gauge is so high school auto shop.
The following 2 users liked this post by 64post:
G Atsma (11-16-2019), Old Geezer (11-19-2019)
#5
First, you should spend a few bucks and have that crank polished, it’s not that much to have it done and makes for a much nicer accurate surface.
Toss that plasti-gauge. Bolt and torque your rods up with the bearings you intend to use, have your local machinist measure them with a dial bore gauge, subtract the the crank journal measurement and KNOW exactly what have. This way you’ll know if you need to add/subtract clearance using different bearing shells and what oil pump you should use. Plasti-gauge is so high school auto shop.
Toss that plasti-gauge. Bolt and torque your rods up with the bearings you intend to use, have your local machinist measure them with a dial bore gauge, subtract the the crank journal measurement and KNOW exactly what have. This way you’ll know if you need to add/subtract clearance using different bearing shells and what oil pump you should use. Plasti-gauge is so high school auto shop.
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#8
On The Tree
The following users liked this post:
00pooterSS (11-19-2019)
#12
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (40)
You over stretched the rod bolts. They are no good now. The engine will chunk a rod out the side of the block if the rod bolts fail.
It is possible over tightening them did that. Won't know until you tighten them correctly and check it.
The sharpie method is okay. The torque spec is 15 ft lbs plus 85 degrees and it's CRITICAL that it's right. A torque angle gauge is cheap and will ensure accuracy.
It is possible over tightening them did that. Won't know until you tighten them correctly and check it.
The sharpie method is okay. The torque spec is 15 ft lbs plus 85 degrees and it's CRITICAL that it's right. A torque angle gauge is cheap and will ensure accuracy.