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Got 3 sets ove cheap cstruab (summit racing kit ) 99% Shure there same. All going just fine wish I had pics of the 2 I took apart for unrelated issue.. 1 was my 4.8 with gm hot cam and ls6 springs, looked great 12k mi. Other was a ls1 with tsp tourqer v2 and .660 springs about 10k mi looked similar maybe a tad (looser) for lack ove better terms . But by no means worn out. The other is on a ls2 with a tsp tourqer v4 and .660 springs , this one has not had the valve covers off in 15k and sounds silent /gives me no reason to further inspect. But I do think the che looks better. And wouldn't hesitate to buy either just my opinion..
EDIT. I forgot but also did summit set in a lq4 with tsp 228/228 110 with beehives, it's been fine with bouncing off the rev limiter for at least 1000 mi now. Something else will die first....
Hey fellas, just wanted to chime in. I read a lot of this thread especially after having installed a Straub kit a few months ago. I did an oil change after a few hundred miles after installing the bushings to see how things were going. I also saw bronze glitter galore. Like a stripper had exploded in my motor. However, I theorized that this was due to break in as they had been assembled and installed correctly. Sure enough I changed the oil and filter a couple times and i stopped seeing any glitter. Months later I even dropped the pan to install a crank scraper and no sign of metal in the pan. No play in the rockers. So I believe that a lot of the glitter we are seeing is from the initial break in of the bushings. Now, I don't know whether that should happen or not but I know that I don't have anymore glitter and the car is doing fine even after some track days (road racing) Now I must add, this is a LS3 with a stock cam and Manley single springs.
Hey fellas, just wanted to chime in. I read a lot of this thread especially after having installed a Straub kit a few months ago. I did an oil change after a few hundred miles after installing the bushings to see how things were going. I also saw bronze glitter galore. Like a stripper had exploded in my motor. However, I theorized that this was due to break in as they had been assembled and installed correctly. Sure enough I changed the oil and filter a couple times and i stopped seeing any glitter. Months later I even dropped the pan to install a crank scraper and no sign of metal in the pan. No play in the rockers. So I believe that a lot of the glitter we are seeing is from the initial break in of the bushings. Now, I don't know whether that should happen or not but I know that I don't have anymore glitter and the car is doing fine even after some track days (road racing) Now I must add, this is a LS3 with a stock cam and Manley single springs.
if you got the man glitter then your bushings are worn they won't make noise or feel loose. You have to disassemble them. Trust me they are worn. If your are under .580 lift they usually don't wear out. LS3 rockers are not true on the valve stem pads from the factory which also contributes to side loading and excessive wear on the bushings.
if you got the man glitter then your bushings are worn they won't make noise or feel loose. You have to disassemble them. Trust me they are worn. If your are under .580 lift they usually don't wear out. LS3 rockers are not true on the valve stem pads front the factory which also contributes to side loading and excessive wear on the bushings.
That is not true if the glitter is only occurring right at break-in like C5natie said. I had the same experience. First startup and oil change had glitter. After break-in there is zero glitter and my rockers are tight with no play.
That is not true if the glitter is only occurring right at break-in like C5natie said. I had the same experience. First startup and oil change had glitter. After break-in there is zero glitter and my rockers are tight with no play.
mine were tight too and the bushings were scored bad after I disassembled them. There is no break in for bronze bushing of any type.
mine were tight too and the bushings were scored bad after I disassembled them. There is no break in for bronze bushing of any type.
There are tolerances on everything. There is going to be SOME amount of break-in even on a bronze bushing. Many people on here have had the same experience and since them they haven't had issues/failures.
My Smith Bro bronze kit was broken in on a .585" lift cam and PAC 1218's then I swapped to a .629" lift camshaft with 660's. Haven't seen any glitter and valvetrain is actually quieter now than with the lower lift cam. The Smith Bros kit looks exactly like the Straub kit even the packaging. Wish I would have went with the CHE kit in the long run, but at the time I thought I was through with upgrading... then aftermarket heads, different cam, 660 springs etc.etc.etc. lol
There is no theory behind lift having anything to do with it. If anything, spring pressure would be about it. Maybe pushrod strength also. Both would apply more load on the bottom of the bushing where basically all of the load is centralized.
Maybe any instabilities also.
Since the bushings can be initially scraped or superficially damaged on install, thats where some of the glitter comes from but also the oil grooves/recesses will wear in on any surface also and will bed in.
People still wont recognize that bronze bushings are made to wear? Any bronze bushing. Thats and basic self lubrication are 2 of the main qualities of bronze and why its used. Top side oiling can drastically effect wear also. Low oil pressure etc.
The only ones so far that wont wear are the needle bearings, which are plagued with metallurgical failures due to the design, material differences in hardness and smoothness, lack of oiling, or improper install. And our max effort rockers with an open sided full bearing. Those would be the top of the line, no failures, no glitter, no wear option. We will be offering them in a cartridge style soon. Lots to do and little time to do it in. They are a simple press in, easy to lube, and go. I will be checking ls7 rocker fitment soon, but due to the poor ls7 geometry with a stock rocker wearing guides and valves, may not even be offered.
Sorry i know this thread is old . Just thought I’d share my experience with these trunnions. Here are my failed comp trunnions. 20k miles cam motion cam 226/232 .625 lift If you look close in between the C-clip tabs you can see the housing is cracked and probably about to fail soon.
I had the same thing happen with my Straub bushing kit. At the time I posted the failure, with pics, everyone said it was my fault because I did not install them correctly. There were installed with engine assembly lube, using the correct assembly tool. Funny how a little time has proven that my case was not a one-off situation. I replaced those rockers with a set of factory rockers, and have not had any additional problems since then. Over 10K miles so far with the stockers and no issues.
sorry i know this thread is old . Just thought i’d share my experience with these trunnions. Here are my failed comp trunnions. 20k miles cam motion cam 226/232 .625 lift if you look close in between the c-clip tabs you can see the housing is cracked and probably about to fail soon.
that is not a comp trunion
i have purchased over 100 set of comp trunions, i have seen a bunch of fakes
first of all the comp trunions are 100% rem polished, and they use small clips,
any trunion with large clips like in the picture are for sure from china not a comp cams trunion
I inspected one of my CHE trunnions at 20k miles again, it looked great, barely any wear, certainly ready for another 20k miles of abuse if not more. I have pictures somewhere, I'll post them up later.
07-06-2020, 03:34 PM
