weird lifter tick on decel, fresh turbo build.
11-23-2019, 07:37 PM
#1
weird lifter tick on decel, fresh turbo build. Hey guys! Back with another question lol. my car has been fully built with forged internals, new fuel system, and other supporting mods for a turbo kit. I had a simple base tune done on it to get the engine broken in and so I can save up for a proper tune. so far the engine build has about 200miles on it and two oil changes so far with rotella 10w40. haven't found any metal shavings in the oil so far, so that's good. I'm running the stock gto fuel injectors as of now until I get the final tune done on it then ill install the 80lb injectors I have put away for it. I only drive it around the block every other Saturday, going easy on it not getting into boost, maybe 1psi at the most. 
. My fuel pressure is at 58psi and is set up for boost reference. I have a single walbro 450 pump in a modded fuel bucket. the fuel set up is no longer return-less as well. im using 8an for the feed and 6an for the return.
Here are the mods:
04 Gto with an lq4 6.0L, 317 heads, BTR stage 2 turbo cam kit w/ .660" springs, chromoly pushrods 7.400", new ls7 lifters and trays, etc.... on3 78mm cast turbo. new double roller riming chain kit, new water pump, new melling 10295 oil pump, oil pump pick up tube retainer from ict billet, Forged cp pistons for lower compression, h-beam rods, coated rod, crank and cam bearings (all from kings bearings)new cam plate ARP rod bolts and ARP bolts all around, arp head studs too with ls9 mls head gaskets. I think that's all I can remember for now....
Now that the mods are out of the way, Here's my problem(s)..
whenever I accelerate slowly while in neutral or on deceleration I hear a slight metallic flutter or tick/rattle from what I believe are the lifters perhaps. Mainly on decel. Does it in gear and neutral. I've even checked the car with the valve covers pulled off to further check for the sound and it matches the speed of the rockers which are stockout low mile btw, I know its in the cam/ valve-train (glad its not my bottom end
)
as of now my oil pressure is around 34psi cold idle, and around 19-24psi hot idle. this really has me worried but when accelerating I get from 45-65psi on the gauge. the aftermarket gauge could be off (sucks that the GTOs don't have a factory oil gauge) or I'm getting lower readings due to the turbo but it worries me a bit though. this is my first LS engine so I'm not familiar with their normal oil pressure ranges. This problem has me worried because I'm now ready to swap in my 80lb injectors and get a full speed density tune and see what this thing is made of!! I just don't wanna break anything if somethings wrong with the motor. I don't know what I should do, figured id ask y'all before I tear the newly built engine apart
. I'm hoping its a normal thing with these LS engine and I can relax for once lol. I'm known to overthink things when it comes to my cars lol!
I know this is kinda long but I dont wanna leave anything out
Any help would be greatly appreciated!!
Ill try to post any videos if I can so y'all can get a better idea of what I'm talking about.
Can't wait to see the hp numbers!!!
. My fuel pressure is at 58psi and is set up for boost reference. I have a single walbro 450 pump in a modded fuel bucket. the fuel set up is no longer return-less as well. im using 8an for the feed and 6an for the return.Here are the mods:
04 Gto with an lq4 6.0L, 317 heads, BTR stage 2 turbo cam kit w/ .660" springs, chromoly pushrods 7.400", new ls7 lifters and trays, etc.... on3 78mm cast turbo. new double roller riming chain kit, new water pump, new melling 10295 oil pump, oil pump pick up tube retainer from ict billet, Forged cp pistons for lower compression, h-beam rods, coated rod, crank and cam bearings (all from kings bearings)new cam plate ARP rod bolts and ARP bolts all around, arp head studs too with ls9 mls head gaskets. I think that's all I can remember for now....
Now that the mods are out of the way, Here's my problem(s)..
whenever I accelerate slowly while in neutral or on deceleration I hear a slight metallic flutter or tick/rattle from what I believe are the lifters perhaps. Mainly on decel. Does it in gear and neutral. I've even checked the car with the valve covers pulled off to further check for the sound and it matches the speed of the rockers which are stockout low mile btw, I know its in the cam/ valve-train (glad its not my bottom end
)as of now my oil pressure is around 34psi cold idle, and around 19-24psi hot idle. this really has me worried but when accelerating I get from 45-65psi on the gauge. the aftermarket gauge could be off (sucks that the GTOs don't have a factory oil gauge) or I'm getting lower readings due to the turbo but it worries me a bit though. this is my first LS engine so I'm not familiar with their normal oil pressure ranges. This problem has me worried because I'm now ready to swap in my 80lb injectors and get a full speed density tune and see what this thing is made of!! I just don't wanna break anything if somethings wrong with the motor. I don't know what I should do, figured id ask y'all before I tear the newly built engine apart
. I'm hoping its a normal thing with these LS engine and I can relax for once lol. I'm known to overthink things when it comes to my cars lol!I know this is kinda long but I dont wanna leave anything out
Any help would be greatly appreciated!!
Ill try to post any videos if I can so y'all can get a better idea of what I'm talking about.
Can't wait to see the hp numbers!!!
11-24-2019, 02:50 PM
#2
Launching!
Hello,
I hope that I am not hijacking your thread!
Let me be the first to say that the "tick/rattle" noise is all too common when:
1 A high lift cam is used with a fast closing ramp
2 Higher pressure valve springs
3 A roll of the dice with just about any valve lifters
Earlier this year I replaced my heads with a set of #706 heads, did a diy porting job and a machine shop valve job. The only thing I really changed was the valve springs going from a LS6 springs to a Pac -1215 springs. Which was not that much of an increase LS6 90/280, Pac 105/293 pressures. The Comp cam is Intake .05 duration of 212 at .557 lift--Exhaust 216 at .561 lift put in 10/2007 with a used set of Comp. Pro mag. adjustable 1.75 ratio rockers.
With my old set up the valve train was quieter than the stock set up with only an a slight sewing machine noise when hot and on decel when popping the rpms in neutral with the hood open.
After the new springs it was noticeable when driving in deceleration. I adjusted the lifter preload from -.035" to -.115 with no change. I rechecked the push rod length which gave me about -.055 preload and put the original rockers back on. Now the noise is less but still noticeable.
From my research the answer comes up with two fixes.
1 A cam grind with a slow closing ramp, [I can not remember what that is called? ]
2 A better lifter, some say the $450 Johnson lifters are the best
It does not make much sense but it sounds like is that the lifter losses too much oil on the valve closing ramp. So the noise comes from clearance in the valve train that clicks as the lifter comes up to open the valve. Much like a solid lifter has clearance to run but bad with an hydraulic lifter because it is probably losing the full lift.
Hope that helps and I am sure more will answer with better advice.
I hope that I am not hijacking your thread!
Let me be the first to say that the "tick/rattle" noise is all too common when:
1 A high lift cam is used with a fast closing ramp
2 Higher pressure valve springs
3 A roll of the dice with just about any valve lifters
Earlier this year I replaced my heads with a set of #706 heads, did a diy porting job and a machine shop valve job. The only thing I really changed was the valve springs going from a LS6 springs to a Pac -1215 springs. Which was not that much of an increase LS6 90/280, Pac 105/293 pressures. The Comp cam is Intake .05 duration of 212 at .557 lift--Exhaust 216 at .561 lift put in 10/2007 with a used set of Comp. Pro mag. adjustable 1.75 ratio rockers.
With my old set up the valve train was quieter than the stock set up with only an a slight sewing machine noise when hot and on decel when popping the rpms in neutral with the hood open.
After the new springs it was noticeable when driving in deceleration. I adjusted the lifter preload from -.035" to -.115 with no change. I rechecked the push rod length which gave me about -.055 preload and put the original rockers back on. Now the noise is less but still noticeable.
From my research the answer comes up with two fixes.
1 A cam grind with a slow closing ramp, [I can not remember what that is called? ]
2 A better lifter, some say the $450 Johnson lifters are the best
It does not make much sense but it sounds like is that the lifter losses too much oil on the valve closing ramp. So the noise comes from clearance in the valve train that clicks as the lifter comes up to open the valve. Much like a solid lifter has clearance to run but bad with an hydraulic lifter because it is probably losing the full lift.
Hope that helps and I am sure more will answer with better advice.
11-24-2019, 06:12 PM
#3
Launching!
Here is some better information:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...10-vs-ls7.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...10-vs-ls7.html
Saw this on the Corvette forum...
Corvette forum Johnson 2110 lifters
• In late 2013 GM Performance went to Johnson Lifters to ask them what they had for their COPO LS engines.
o GM tested the Johnson 2110 lifters, GM LS7 lifters, Cadillac Racing lifters, and others to include those from Morel
o GM took the lifters and put them through months of testing, and the Johnson lifters were the only ones that they had no issues with axle retention.
o Johnsons were repeatedly tested past 8,500 rpm
• Slow bleed-down lifter describes the ability to maintain lift without collapsing, or the repeatability in common rotation on the cam:
o If you had a .630” lift camshaft but your lifters bled down .030” as the lobe of the cam rotates, you essentially would only be getting .600” of lift from your cam
o GM found that
• Johnson lifters maintained their lift 95% of the time
• LS7 lifters only maintained their lift 50% of time
• Cold Start noise is commonly attributed to two main factors:
o High valve spring pressure
o The high leak (bleed) down rate of the lifter (SLR lifters are actually a positive here)
• Johnson lifters have the largest inlet from low pressure (engine oil pressure) to high pressure (holds the load via the pushrod to from the rocker arm)
o Johnson uses the largest disc style check valve in the industry
o Cadillac Racing lifters previously used to have the largest inlet with their ball style check valve
• Cold forged 1018 steel blanks CNC’d to final dimensions. Heat treated for exceptional wear resistance. Chosen over 8620 for roller pocket strength. The grain structure from forging increases the durability and dimensional repeatability in that area, which allows for an encapsulated roller versus an open fork design. The encapsulated rollers when used with standard GM diameter lifter will take higher spring loads than an open fork design
• Precision ground needle roller bearing with high chromium steel axle for long life and minimal friction.
• Cold forged extra long piston, precision ground and fitted for controlled leak down and pump up.
• High flow disc style quick reacting check valve for better reaction at higher RPM.
• Precision oil metering assuring proper oiling to the rocker arms without sacrificing oil pressure.
Corvette forum Johnson 2110 lifters
• In late 2013 GM Performance went to Johnson Lifters to ask them what they had for their COPO LS engines.
o GM tested the Johnson 2110 lifters, GM LS7 lifters, Cadillac Racing lifters, and others to include those from Morel
o GM took the lifters and put them through months of testing, and the Johnson lifters were the only ones that they had no issues with axle retention.
o Johnsons were repeatedly tested past 8,500 rpm
• Slow bleed-down lifter describes the ability to maintain lift without collapsing, or the repeatability in common rotation on the cam:
o If you had a .630” lift camshaft but your lifters bled down .030” as the lobe of the cam rotates, you essentially would only be getting .600” of lift from your cam
o GM found that
• Johnson lifters maintained their lift 95% of the time
• LS7 lifters only maintained their lift 50% of time
• Cold Start noise is commonly attributed to two main factors:
o High valve spring pressure
o The high leak (bleed) down rate of the lifter (SLR lifters are actually a positive here)
• Johnson lifters have the largest inlet from low pressure (engine oil pressure) to high pressure (holds the load via the pushrod to from the rocker arm)
o Johnson uses the largest disc style check valve in the industry
o Cadillac Racing lifters previously used to have the largest inlet with their ball style check valve
• Cold forged 1018 steel blanks CNC’d to final dimensions. Heat treated for exceptional wear resistance. Chosen over 8620 for roller pocket strength. The grain structure from forging increases the durability and dimensional repeatability in that area, which allows for an encapsulated roller versus an open fork design. The encapsulated rollers when used with standard GM diameter lifter will take higher spring loads than an open fork design
• Precision ground needle roller bearing with high chromium steel axle for long life and minimal friction.
• Cold forged extra long piston, precision ground and fitted for controlled leak down and pump up.
• High flow disc style quick reacting check valve for better reaction at higher RPM.
• Precision oil metering assuring proper oiling to the rocker arms without sacrificing oil pressure.
11-24-2019, 07:55 PM
#4
Hello,
I hope that I am not hijacking your thread!
Let me be the first to say that the "tick/rattle" noise is all too common when:
1 A high lift cam is used with a fast closing ramp
2 Higher pressure valve springs
3 A roll of the dice with just about any valve lifters
Earlier this year I replaced my heads with a set of #706 heads, did a diy porting job and a machine shop valve job. The only thing I really changed was the valve springs going from a LS6 springs to a Pac -1215 springs. Which was not that much of an increase LS6 90/280, Pac 105/293 pressures. The Comp cam is Intake .05 duration of 212 at .557 lift--Exhaust 216 at .561 lift put in 10/2007 with a used set of Comp. Pro mag. adjustable 1.75 ratio rockers.
With my old set up the valve train was quieter than the stock set up with only an a slight sewing machine noise when hot and on decel when popping the rpms in neutral with the hood open.
After the new springs it was noticeable when driving in deceleration. I adjusted the lifter preload from -.035" to -.115 with no change. I rechecked the push rod length which gave me about -.055 preload and put the original rockers back on. Now the noise is less but still noticeable.
From my research the answer comes up with two fixes.
1 A cam grind with a slow closing ramp, [I can not remember what that is called? ]
2 A better lifter, some say the $450 Johnson lifters are the best
It does not make much sense but it sounds like is that the lifter losses too much oil on the valve closing ramp. So the noise comes from clearance in the valve train that clicks as the lifter comes up to open the valve. Much like a solid lifter has clearance to run but bad with an hydraulic lifter because it is probably losing the full lift.
Hope that helps and I am sure more will answer with better advice.
I hope that I am not hijacking your thread!
Let me be the first to say that the "tick/rattle" noise is all too common when:
1 A high lift cam is used with a fast closing ramp
2 Higher pressure valve springs
3 A roll of the dice with just about any valve lifters
Earlier this year I replaced my heads with a set of #706 heads, did a diy porting job and a machine shop valve job. The only thing I really changed was the valve springs going from a LS6 springs to a Pac -1215 springs. Which was not that much of an increase LS6 90/280, Pac 105/293 pressures. The Comp cam is Intake .05 duration of 212 at .557 lift--Exhaust 216 at .561 lift put in 10/2007 with a used set of Comp. Pro mag. adjustable 1.75 ratio rockers.
With my old set up the valve train was quieter than the stock set up with only an a slight sewing machine noise when hot and on decel when popping the rpms in neutral with the hood open.
After the new springs it was noticeable when driving in deceleration. I adjusted the lifter preload from -.035" to -.115 with no change. I rechecked the push rod length which gave me about -.055 preload and put the original rockers back on. Now the noise is less but still noticeable.
From my research the answer comes up with two fixes.
1 A cam grind with a slow closing ramp, [I can not remember what that is called? ]
2 A better lifter, some say the $450 Johnson lifters are the best
It does not make much sense but it sounds like is that the lifter losses too much oil on the valve closing ramp. So the noise comes from clearance in the valve train that clicks as the lifter comes up to open the valve. Much like a solid lifter has clearance to run but bad with an hydraulic lifter because it is probably losing the full lift.
Hope that helps and I am sure more will answer with better advice.
Im wondering if there’s any adjustments that can be made even with having stock rockers. If I remember correctly when I installed the rockers I hand tightened the screws to “zero lash” then torqued them to 22 ftlbs. Figured that’s all I would need since they were stock. Do these have to have preload?? I even marked the tip of the rocker with a sharpie where it makes contact with the top of the valve stem then turn the engine a couple times to see where it was wearing and it was dead center with the 7.400” pushrods. I’m hoping there’s nothing wrong with my cam or lifter. And if the tapping is normal like most guys say for the ls engines I’ll send it. I’m actually not worried about the noise but the thought of the noise being a major underlying problem in such a fresh build keeps me up at night. Thanks again for the reply! I’m trying to upload video but it just not working for me. I’ll try to upload it on another website and share the link.
The following users liked this post:
wannafbody (12-19-2019)
11-24-2019, 08:38 PM
#6
Launching!
adjustments Hello,
There are two "bleed down" events.
1 When the engine is not running and the spring pushes the plunger down to zero lash or max travel in the lifter on a open valve. But because that is less than the total lift the valve stays open.
2 When the engine is running the spring pressure and the closing ramp of the cam adjusts to the preload setting.
When higher valve springs and quicker closing ramps are used [more than stock] I am thinking that is when the extra or too much clearance happens.
quote:
• Slow bleed-down lifter describes the ability to maintain lift without collapsing, or the repeatability in common rotation on the cam:
o If you had a .630” lift camshaft but your lifters bled down .030” as the lobe of the cam rotates, you essentially would only be getting .600” of lift from your cam
o GM found that
• Johnson lifters maintained their lift 95% of the time
• LS7 lifters only maintained their lift 50% of time
End quote
So I do not think that push rod length will change the noise unless it is way out of specs. As I used the adjustable rockers to change the amount of preload with no effect.
By replacing the the Comp roller rockers with stock rockers did help:
1 Reduced the weight of the valve train as the stock one are lighter.
2 Slowed down the closing of the valve by returning it to 1.7 ratio.
A stock pushrod may flex and bend but it looks like you have changed them to a stiffer one.
I am planning on overhauling the block next summer to get rid of piston slap, and replacing the lifters. Only has 70000 miles on it and now the "cold" piston slap can be faintly heard when warmed up.
This is an issue with the LS engines. Thanks for bringing it up.
There are two "bleed down" events.
1 When the engine is not running and the spring pushes the plunger down to zero lash or max travel in the lifter on a open valve. But because that is less than the total lift the valve stays open.
2 When the engine is running the spring pressure and the closing ramp of the cam adjusts to the preload setting.
When higher valve springs and quicker closing ramps are used [more than stock] I am thinking that is when the extra or too much clearance happens.
quote:
• Slow bleed-down lifter describes the ability to maintain lift without collapsing, or the repeatability in common rotation on the cam:
o If you had a .630” lift camshaft but your lifters bled down .030” as the lobe of the cam rotates, you essentially would only be getting .600” of lift from your cam
o GM found that
• Johnson lifters maintained their lift 95% of the time
• LS7 lifters only maintained their lift 50% of time
End quote
So I do not think that push rod length will change the noise unless it is way out of specs. As I used the adjustable rockers to change the amount of preload with no effect.
By replacing the the Comp roller rockers with stock rockers did help:
1 Reduced the weight of the valve train as the stock one are lighter.
2 Slowed down the closing of the valve by returning it to 1.7 ratio.
A stock pushrod may flex and bend but it looks like you have changed them to a stiffer one.
I am planning on overhauling the block next summer to get rid of piston slap, and replacing the lifters. Only has 70000 miles on it and now the "cold" piston slap can be faintly heard when warmed up.
This is an issue with the LS engines. Thanks for bringing it up.
11-24-2019, 09:17 PM
#7
Hello,
There are two "bleed down" events.
1 When the engine is not running and the spring pushes the plunger down to zero lash or max travel in the lifter on a open valve. But because that is less than the total lift the valve stays open.
2 When the engine is running the spring pressure and the closing ramp of the cam adjusts to the preload setting.
When higher valve springs and quicker closing ramps are used [more than stock] I am thinking that is when the extra or too much clearance happens.
quote:
• Slow bleed-down lifter describes the ability to maintain lift without collapsing, or the repeatability in common rotation on the cam:
o If you had a .630” lift camshaft but your lifters bled down .030” as the lobe of the cam rotates, you essentially would only be getting .600” of lift from your cam
o GM found that
• Johnson lifters maintained their lift 95% of the time
• LS7 lifters only maintained their lift 50% of time
End quote
So I do not think that push rod length will change the noise unless it is way out of specs. As I used the adjustable rockers to change the amount of preload with no effect.
By replacing the the Comp roller rockers with stock rockers did help:
1 Reduced the weight of the valve train as the stock one are lighter.
2 Slowed down the closing of the valve by returning it to 1.7 ratio.
A stock pushrod may flex and bend but it looks like you have changed them to a stiffer one.
I am planning on overhauling the block next summer to get rid of piston slap, and replacing the lifters. Only has 70000 miles on it and now the "cold" piston slap can be faintly heard when warmed up.
This is an issue with the LS engines. Thanks for bringing it up.
There are two "bleed down" events.
1 When the engine is not running and the spring pushes the plunger down to zero lash or max travel in the lifter on a open valve. But because that is less than the total lift the valve stays open.
2 When the engine is running the spring pressure and the closing ramp of the cam adjusts to the preload setting.
When higher valve springs and quicker closing ramps are used [more than stock] I am thinking that is when the extra or too much clearance happens.
quote:
• Slow bleed-down lifter describes the ability to maintain lift without collapsing, or the repeatability in common rotation on the cam:
o If you had a .630” lift camshaft but your lifters bled down .030” as the lobe of the cam rotates, you essentially would only be getting .600” of lift from your cam
o GM found that
• Johnson lifters maintained their lift 95% of the time
• LS7 lifters only maintained their lift 50% of time
End quote
So I do not think that push rod length will change the noise unless it is way out of specs. As I used the adjustable rockers to change the amount of preload with no effect.
By replacing the the Comp roller rockers with stock rockers did help:
1 Reduced the weight of the valve train as the stock one are lighter.
2 Slowed down the closing of the valve by returning it to 1.7 ratio.
A stock pushrod may flex and bend but it looks like you have changed them to a stiffer one.
I am planning on overhauling the block next summer to get rid of piston slap, and replacing the lifters. Only has 70000 miles on it and now the "cold" piston slap can be faintly heard when warmed up.
This is an issue with the LS engines. Thanks for bringing it up.
Trending Topics
11-24-2019, 09:27 PM
#8
11-24-2019, 09:58 PM
#9
Launching!
Yeah it’s starting to look like I’ll have to pull the lifters to really know huh? I’m still trying to get a video up to give a better example but by your description is exactly what is happening to mine. Quick unrelated question but, what does piston slap sound like? I’ve seen it on videos but can’t tell the difference from a lifter tap on video.
Piston slap is worse with a cold start up, sounds like the noise is jumping around the block. Warm it will go away in most cases. Sounds like popping your tongue on the roof of your mouth.
Lifters are more of clicking sound up high.
Hope this helps
11-25-2019, 03:36 PM
#10
Launching!
Need a sound video Hello Javi7808,
It would be helpful if you could post a video of the noise.
Thanks
It would be helpful if you could post a video of the noise.
Thanks
11-25-2019, 05:26 PM
#11
11-25-2019, 10:09 PM
#12
You’ll hear the engine at a cold start in the first part, fans aren’t on yet. The second part is after driving around for 20 minutes and warmed, the fans are on at this point but you can hear the tick/rattle clearly and louder. Let me know what y’all think. If the link doesn’t work let me know.
11-25-2019, 10:24 PM
#13
Launching!
Hello,
I hear it!
Sounds like a bad rocker or a loose push rod. I would take the valve covers off and rotate the engine as you would when adjusting valve clearance or checking push rod length.
Look for any rocker has more than side to side looseness on the valve, enough clearance to lift the rocker off the valve.
I hear the click on decel, idle and acceleration, Something is loose in the valve train.
I hear it!
Sounds like a bad rocker or a loose push rod. I would take the valve covers off and rotate the engine as you would when adjusting valve clearance or checking push rod length.
Look for any rocker has more than side to side looseness on the valve, enough clearance to lift the rocker off the valve.
I hear the click on decel, idle and acceleration, Something is loose in the valve train.
Last edited by Metalchipper; 11-25-2019 at 10:40 PM. Reason: brain fart
11-25-2019, 10:34 PM
#14
Hello,
I hear it!
Sounds like a bad rocker or a loose push rod. I would take the valve covers off and rotate the engine as you would when adjusting valve clearance or checking push rod length.
Look for any rocker has more than side to side looseness on the valve, enough clearance to lift the rocker off the valve.
I hear it!
Sounds like a bad rocker or a loose push rod. I would take the valve covers off and rotate the engine as you would when adjusting valve clearance or checking push rod length.
Look for any rocker has more than side to side looseness on the valve, enough clearance to lift the rocker off the valve.
12-18-2019, 09:32 PM
#15
Launching!
Looking for opinions heres a link i just uploaded.
https://youtu.be/LAGAIuZgq4A
You’ll hear the engine at a cold start in the first part, fans aren’t on yet. The second part is after driving around for 20 minutes and warmed, the fans are on at this point but you can hear the tick/rattle clearly and louder. Let me know what y’all think. If the link doesn’t work let me know.
https://youtu.be/LAGAIuZgq4A
You’ll hear the engine at a cold start in the first part, fans aren’t on yet. The second part is after driving around for 20 minutes and warmed, the fans are on at this point but you can hear the tick/rattle clearly and louder. Let me know what y’all think. If the link doesn’t work let me know.
Any one else have an opinion on what the noise is?
12-19-2019, 05:45 PM
#16
So in the cold start part, do you have a idler pulley/belt chirping? I hear it in the second part as well but it's not as loud. If not, I would not drive that until you at minimum pull that valve cover. I hate to jump to conclusions without cracking a valve cover, but it sounds like that chirping could be a lifter that is not pumped up, and trying to rotate. Hopefully it's just a loose rocker though.
