Quench would be under .035 with a cold motor, at operating temp the block grows.

 

Interested to see the difference in driveability with the less restrictive exhaust and additional compression. Nice build!

 

Rods also stretch a little bit at high rpm. So the higher the revs the more careful we need to be about quench.

 

Good point

 

Are there any disadvantages of using PAC 1208X vs PAC 1207X? I can't seem to find a lot of info on the RPM limits of solid stainless valves, maybe I'm blowing it out of proportion, I just don't want to destroy some lifters and a cam and possibly more.

I'll plan on 0.045 gaskets.

I hear you on the dual 3" exhaust, it's just not in the budget right now. I would want to be able to make it quiet for my neighborhood, but also have cutouts on it. Not even sure how I would accomplish that, but it would definitely require some custom work.

Thanks! I'm dying to see how it does.

 

The disadvantage is the stiffer the spring the harder it is on the rest of the valve train but whats worse more maintenance or engine damaging valve float. You may give up a few hp with the stiffer springs, nothing crazy.

 

Alright, I'm trying to decide what to do about a tune. I've been trying to get the attention of the tuner who tuned my car last time and I just can't get through, I wanted to ask him about using the LS7 MAF, and which injectors to use, how much compression to run, and to go through my parts list to make sure he's confident that he can make it run well, but I just can't get his attention. So I think I'm going to move on.

Unfortunately there's not many tuning options around here. There are only 2 other shops I know of that have dynos in the area, one handles all the local sand toys, so they have a 3-4 month wait, and I know people who have had experience with the other shop, and none of it has been good.

So I have 2 options if I'm going to move forward with this build:
1. Use a local guy who was taught by my tuner, who I've heard some good things about, but I'm not quite sure how experienced he is. Also I don't think he has access to a dyno right now.
2. Email tune (probably Pat G?) which means I will need to buy HP Tuners.

 

That sucks to hear and I'm sure you're not wanting to spend more and more money. But I would buy the HP tuners and have a very experienced tuner remote tune it. Could even save you money in that it could prevent a hurt motor from a poor tune. Also, you'll never regret spending the money and having confidence in your tune.

The HP tuner and Pat G option sounds like a winner.

 

Yeah I'm pretty frustrated right now. I really was looking forward to seeing a HP number to give me an idea of how much I've gained, but I think I'm just going to have to go without. I'm also sick of spending so much money, and I'm sure there's other things I'll need that I haven't thought of too. However I have kind of been wanting to dabble in some tuning, so having HP Tuners might allow me to learn a bit on future projects.

 

Well you can always carry it to a dyno, or a dyno day once it's complete.

I think you'll enjoy going the route of buying the hp tuners and being a part of the process and then being able to dabble also.

 

I've been busy as hell so I haven't had time to update this thread, but here's a small, quick update. I got the car running on Friday night after busting my *** in the hot as hell garage since the Thursday of the 4th of July weekend. I have to say I'm pretty impressed with Pat G, more often than not he will respond to emails within 30 minutes. The base tune he gave me needs a bit of work for WOT at low RPM, but other than that it runs pretty damn good. And holy crap the car pulls HARD all the way to the 7000 rpm rev limiter. I really wish the stock tach would go that high! It's going to take bit of learning the engine sound to figure out when to shift. I'll post a bit more about it later.

 

Awesome! I was literally just going to post a thread asking if I should go with a PatG email tune plus hptuners and you basically answered my question.

 

What are the valve angles of the PRC 225 Heads?
I did not see that info on the Texas Speed Site.

 

13 degree

 

I definitely recommend him. It's awesome being able to dump the tune in and get the car running as soon as you put it together. I sent him my list of mods on Tuesday June 30th, and he emailed me the tune on July 10, which is not bad, especially considering there was a holiday weekend in there as well.

This afternoon I tuned the IAC (he includes instructions on how to do this), which I really should have done right away, and now the car runs even better. It was having some issues where it seemed to bog at WOT at low RPM, but it seems to have been fixed after doing this. I'm blown away that the tune can be this good with just a list of mods. Now I have to do a bit of data logging and send him the logs so he can revise the tune and really dial it in.

 

This is what Im after as well. Glad its working out on your build. I talked to him today and he recommended I get hp tuners pro since i have the wideband so im happier going this route to where I can get a starting point and learn to tweak the tune later with other mods as I go.

 

I ended up leaving the heads alone and sticking with 62cc combustion chambers. I read somewhere that it can be harder to tune with higher compression, and I psyched myself out thinking about the possibility of creating a tuning disaster and spending all summer getting it dialed in. After dealing with Pat G though, I'm pretty sure he'd have no problem getting it to drive nicely. I also want to use this car for the occasional HPDE and I don't want to worry about detonation with 93 octane fuel when the engine is getting flogged for 20 minute sessions, so I decided 62cc was enough.

Getting lifters was a nightmare, I had planned on getting Johnson 2110 lifters, but they sold out everywhere just before I tried to buy them. I ended up putting in an order with BTR so that they would ship to me as soon as they're available. While I was waiting, looking everywhere I possibly could to find good lifters, I found out that Tony Mamo had a few sets of Johnson 2116LSR link bar lifters, so I ordered those right way.

So this is the final build
- FTP 104mm lid
- Spectre 4" MAF housing with GM card LS3/LS7 MAF sensor. I'm using the stock IAT in the lid instead of the one in the MAF card
- Nick Williams 102mm throttle body
- FAST LSXR 102 intake manifold, removed the ribs on the bottom side of the runners to open up the inside a little bit, and provide a smoother path for the air to flow
- PRC as cast 225 heads, 62cc combustion chamber, solid stem stainless valves
- Texas Speed polished 0.660 dual spring kit
- Cometic 0.045 headgaskets
- TSP Torquer V2 cam 232/234 112 LSA 0.600/0.600
- Johnson 2116LSR lifters
- Texas Speed 1-7/8 long tube headers
- Flowmaster 4" merge
- 4" cutout
- 3" Magnaflow catback
- Racetronix 255 lph fuel pump
- OEM LS7 injectors part # 0 280 158 051

I'm still debating whether I want to pull the manifold again and try to port match it to the heads, there is a significant lip in the transition between the runners and the ports on the head.
I'm also debating whether or not I should pull my AC condenser and put my Chrs1313 ram air in. The AC doesn't work, but I kinda want to try to get it fixed too lol. I'm not sure where I'll put an oil cooler though if I put the ram air on, and I'll definitely need one if I'm going to do HPDEs.

 

That will be pretty solid. I'd aim for 11.5:1 compression. I'd also swing for hollow intake valves. Get your 60 figured out and you should be deep in the 11s.

 

How are the Sport Comp 2s doing with all the new power? I have those same tires and my build so far is looking similar to yours.

 

So I can tell people I have a high tech variable stroke LS1