PRC as cast 225 HCI build thread
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From: Michigan
They're actually hooking pretty good, I honestly have no reason to run a drag radial except for leaving from a dig, which I don't care about too much. If the pavement is fairly fresh, it'll hook in first gear if I roll into the throttle. I do have the shitty LS7 clutch though, so I wonder if it's wreight is acting as a damper. Regardless, it's very easy to control, and I'm very pleasantly surprised. The car is stupidly fun now.
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They're actually hooking pretty good, I honestly have no reason to run a drag radial except for leaving from a dig, which I don't care about too much. If the pavement is fairly fresh, it'll hook in first gear if I roll into the throttle. I do have the shitty LS7 clutch though, so I wonder if it's wreight is acting as a damper. Regardless, it's very easy to control, and I'm very pleasantly surprised. The car is stupidly fun now.
They're actually hooking pretty good, I honestly have no reason to run a drag radial except for leaving from a dig, which I don't care about too much. If the pavement is fairly fresh, it'll hook in first gear if I roll into the throttle. I do have the shitty LS7 clutch though, so I wonder if it's wreight is acting as a damper. Regardless, it's very easy to control, and I'm very pleasantly surprised. The car is stupidly fun now.
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From: Michigan
Update: I had a track rental with a bunch of friends on Wednesday. The rear end blew up on my way home the day before and I was able to get it swapped with enough time to shower and eat a sandwich before I had to leave for the track. That was a hell of a couple days lol.
First I'll get all my excuses out of the way. I'm on worn street tires so they spun most of the way through 2nd gear, the DA was really bad, and I took it easy on the launch because I didn't want to break another 10 bolt this week.
I my best pass was a 12.35 @ 119.84 mph. I wanted so badly to hit 120 mph, but I did 8 passes in a row that were between 119.24 and 119.84, it just wasn't going to happen that night. The DA was around 2900. My map sensor was showing 98 kpa with the engine off dropping to 95 kpa at about 6500, normally its around 100 kpa and drops to about 97 kpa.
First I'll get all my excuses out of the way. I'm on worn street tires so they spun most of the way through 2nd gear, the DA was really bad, and I took it easy on the launch because I didn't want to break another 10 bolt this week.
I my best pass was a 12.35 @ 119.84 mph. I wanted so badly to hit 120 mph, but I did 8 passes in a row that were between 119.24 and 119.84, it just wasn't going to happen that night. The DA was around 2900. My map sensor was showing 98 kpa with the engine off dropping to 95 kpa at about 6500, normally its around 100 kpa and drops to about 97 kpa.
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From: South Carolina
I have a similar build with my LQ9 and have been following your build thread. I did the PRC 225 as casts as well with the TSP v4, 1-7/8 headers, TBSS intake, Nick Williams 92mm in my 2000 Sierra. I've got the tune down pretty good running 27* total advance. How much time were able to run and are you running dynamic with the maf/map or speed density only?
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From: Michigan
I have a similar build with my LQ9 and have been following your build thread. I did the PRC 225 as casts as well with the TSP v4, 1-7/8 headers, TBSS intake, Nick Williams 92mm in my 2000 Sierra. I've got the tune down pretty good running 27* total advance. How much time were able to run and are you running dynamic with the maf/map or speed density only?
I think I have talked to you before about these heads on a Richard Holdener video on youtube lol
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From: Michigan
Since I can't ever leave my damn car alone....
I'm wanting to learn how to tune, so I'm thinking about changing up my cam. Possibly something like a BTR Stage 3 (231/244 .630/.615 112.5 + 2.5) or Stage 4 (233/248 .630/.615 111.5 + 2.5). I figure it would be a decent way to start learning since I already have a pretty well sorted tune from Pat G to start with.
I'll probably be getting a Ford 9" soon and running a 3.90 or 4.10 gear set in it, I'm probably also going to put some ARP rod bolts in it so I can turn 7500+ RPM as well
I want to add some TSP roller rockers to reduce side loading the valve guides. Johnson tells me that my lifters are good for 185 lbs seat pressure, 530 lbs open pressure and 8000 rpm, so I can add some spring for better valve control at high RPM.
The car gets driven on the street a lot, and I also want it to be reliable enough for an occasional track day at my local roadcourse.
Someone please tell me if I'm being an idiot. I might just leave the engine alone for now.
I'm wanting to learn how to tune, so I'm thinking about changing up my cam. Possibly something like a BTR Stage 3 (231/244 .630/.615 112.5 + 2.5) or Stage 4 (233/248 .630/.615 111.5 + 2.5). I figure it would be a decent way to start learning since I already have a pretty well sorted tune from Pat G to start with.
I'll probably be getting a Ford 9" soon and running a 3.90 or 4.10 gear set in it, I'm probably also going to put some ARP rod bolts in it so I can turn 7500+ RPM as well
I want to add some TSP roller rockers to reduce side loading the valve guides. Johnson tells me that my lifters are good for 185 lbs seat pressure, 530 lbs open pressure and 8000 rpm, so I can add some spring for better valve control at high RPM.
The car gets driven on the street a lot, and I also want it to be reliable enough for an occasional track day at my local roadcourse.
Someone please tell me if I'm being an idiot. I might just leave the engine alone for now.
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From: Michigan
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From: Coast of San Mateo County Between Pacifica & HMB
If I were to change that cam & gears.
For a mostly street driven car I would Run The Cam Motion LS1 Titan 5 232*/238* 113*+4* & 3.90's
For a mostly track focused car Titan King 236*/244* 112* +3* & 4.10's
Kind off the far end for a 5.7 with a long runner plastic intake IMO.
Just my .02
Joined: Jul 2007
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From: ELSA, South TEXAS (956) 802-7700
I resemble that remark!
If I were to change that cam & gears.
For a mostly street driven car I would Run The Cam Motion LS1 Titan 5 232*/238* 113*+4* & 3.90's
For a mostly track focused car Titan King 236*/244* 112* +3* & 4.10's
Kind off the far end for a 5.7 with a long runner plastic intake IMO.
Just my .02
If I were to change that cam & gears.
For a mostly street driven car I would Run The Cam Motion LS1 Titan 5 232*/238* 113*+4* & 3.90's
For a mostly track focused car Titan King 236*/244* 112* +3* & 4.10's
Kind off the far end for a 5.7 with a long runner plastic intake IMO.
Just my .02
And have a brand new Titan King 236 244 I don't think I'm gonna use afterall and willing to sell at slight discount.
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From: Monroe,NY
I would learn how to tune on your setup you have now. Get the rear done first before you decide to to change the cam. I went a route similar to you going to a bigger cam and i wish i stayed where i was at since i mostly drive my truck cruising around. I am sure my bigger cam has more power up top but the smaller cam was more fun everywhere else and actually felt faster. For all the money you will spend changing the cam i doubt you will feel much of a difference. You have a mail order tune so with a wideband and hptuners you can definitely find some more power and dial in part throttle.