Leaking head gasket on re-ring job
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Teching In
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Leaking head gasket on re-ring job I put rings and bearings in a 2003 l59 truck motor. When I put in coolant I noticed water leaking at the head and block near the water crossover tube. All I could think about is I installed the gasket incorrectly. I pressure tested the cooling system and both heads are leaking. This motor had 300k and I put about 50k miles on it with no cooling issue. I had issues with the rear main and I replaced it. I checked the heads with a straight edge and I believe they are straight. I don't know how I can follow torquing procedures any closer. I could have been as much as 2 degrees off when torquing. I used Felpro bolts but I used and Enginetech kit. Is there a left and right gasket? They say "front" on them. I couldn't figure out a way put them on wrong. I torqued the smaller bolts down to a few more pounds and the leaking nearly stopped but under pressure the water still blows out. I think these head gaskets are just no good. Should I add some sort of sealant. I have more bolts ordered. What gaskets are the best? These were the MLS gaskets.
Thanks
Brian
Thanks
Brian
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After further inspection of the assembly I found a high and low spot near the coolant passageway on the block. I surfaced the block to a more acceptable finish and in the process flattened the high spot. I still have a dime size valley about .00175 deep. I resurfaced the head and have no variation over .001 over the entire surface. After torquing the head down 90 degrees (didn't want to brake the bolts) I can get about 20 lbs of pressure before I see the any water from this area. Then its only a drop or two after ten minutes. Assuming I put the new OEM head gasket and new bolts do you think It will work? I have read theses gaskets need to heat up before they seal correctly. I don't want to add RTV here because I don't know how it will affect the built on sealer of the gasket. The other head is not leaking as it did at first pressure test.
I've tried to avoid the machine shop but with this motor but that may be and inevitability. If you have to use them you're only saving peanuts over buying one at one of the national vendors.
I've tried to avoid the machine shop but with this motor but that may be and inevitability. If you have to use them you're only saving peanuts over buying one at one of the national vendors.
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From: Bossier City, Louisiana
Try some "AC Delco Coolant System Seal Tabs" GM part number 12378255 for less than ten bucks. Mr Goodwrench uses these in situations such as this. This stuff works. You might also try some "Blue Devil" sealant or "Bars Stop Leak" when the cost of doing yet another head gasket replacement on a vehicle no longer makes economic sense - scrapping the car, for example.
There are lots of You Tube testimonial videos about these products under long term use. You be the judge . . .
Rick
There are lots of You Tube testimonial videos about these products under long term use. You be the judge . . .
Rick
Might have notched heads on there which are only really good with FelPro type gaskets. Search head notch you will see. I have used MLS gaskets with notched heads before with success using copper spray. If its a stock motor driver type thing I'd try some coolant pucks first and see if it stops before tearing it apart. If its a performance oriented motor in any fashion? Replace head gaskets. Look at bottom of head for notch
I use the tablets in every engine I build. It’s an old habit I guess, but I always use them. My circle track engine builder always made me use them, and Steve at RED mandates using them with sleeved blocks also. No cons with them. No residue in system afterwards etc.
Same I use a couple in every motor no issues. My plow truck has MLS gaskets and notched heads running aces a few years now. Copper spray and coolant pucks. Its a high miler too
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It wasn't a notched head. The tablets were a good Idea. I blocked the head and deck a bit more for a good finish and it sealed up. I used a Mahle gasket. The next issue. I checked my preload on the lifters and it ranges from .08 to .12 inches as I measure from the rocker tip. That's about a turn and a half, nothing past that. I do finish work every day and I have a good feel for material removal. I'm thinking there is no way I removed more than a few mills during this. I did lap the valves. Nah I didn't use a drill and the mating surfaces didn't spread out to wide. I decided to to try and run with it. The lifters raised hell for about 10 minutes, I pushed up the rpm to 2k and it subsided after around 20 minutes. Assuming this runs good, is this too much preload? Am I going to destroy anything in the motor? I haven't gotten it super hot yet but up to operating temp. The next one will definitely be easier.
Thanks for your responses
Brian
Thanks for your responses
Brian
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I aim for 80 preload, no more than 1 for performance stuff. If its a stocker type cam it will probably be okay, i cant recall just now what the limit is on stock cams 150 is ringing to mind but I aint fer sure there. Search it up to be certain
As for the notch head? No idea, probably something to do with the casting process there was a few different processes happening for LS motors in the early days
As for the notch head? No idea, probably something to do with the casting process there was a few different processes happening for LS motors in the early days