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I ended up cutting the old bolt into a thread chaser. Was able to get all of the debris out and the threads seem to have not stripped in the crank itself.
I ended up cutting the old bolt into a thread chaser. Was able to get all of the debris out and the threads seem to have not stripped in the crank itself.
That's not a reusable bolt, you know. You're supposed to use a new one.
That’s not stripped, that’s broken. Either get another crank or have a professional remove that because the chance of you getting that out without damaging the crank is about 0.
This is also why you never buy an engine from a private party, especially not one that is claiming “rebuilt.” I can’t even count how many engines my friends have gone through because they truly believe they’re getting some sort of smoking deal from some random dude. If the engine was good, they wouldn’t be selling it. Buy your engines from junkyards/parts wholesalers. You just want a bone stock, completely untouched engine as a starting point.
That’s not stripped, that’s broken. Either get another crank or have a professional remove that because the chance of you getting that out without damaging the crank is about 0.
This might be my ignorance talking here, but you might try threading (NOT torqueing) a good bolt into the crank to see how deep the good threads are. At least then you will know for sure if a piece is still in there, AND if the threads still feel snug enough to be usable. You never know for sure, until you KNOW....
Just my .02.....
That's not a reusable bolt, you know. You're supposed to use a new one.
Really? Because I've reused them A BUNCH of times... Every time, actually. And I've never had a problem. Neither have any of the other guys I work with, and we work on GM trucks every day, for everything imaginable.
If you read a GM service manual for these engines, almost every bolt (even those that see less than 35 lb/ft) are "one time use."
I don't buy that.
Anyway, to the original poster: Despite the information I just gave, get a new bolt (or a used one that isn't damaged! It won't matter!), and make sure that it can thread all the way to the bottom of that hole, WITH THE BALANCER PRESSED ALL THE WAY ON, CORRECTLY. You do have a balancer installation tool, right?
If it doesn't, try your home-made thread cleaner again, a few more times, with plenty of lube, and check it again.
If that doesn't do any good, tell us how much thread-depth you've lost, and we can go from there.
If it's just 3/16" or so, I'd add an extra washer under the bolt, and call it good. If it's 1/4" or more, then something else may need to be done.
It looks like you've still got a lot of threads in there, so I wouldn't worry too much.
Really? Because I've reused them A BUNCH of times... Every time, actually. And I've never had a problem. Neither have any of the other guys I work with, and we work on GM trucks every day, for everything imaginable.
Yes, really. The "We do it wrong all the time" argument doesn't change anything.
Yes, really. The "We do it wrong all the time" argument doesn't change anything.
QwkTrip, you know that I respect you and all of the work you've done, and all of the information you've shared, but I really don't see the point of discarding an undamaged harmonic balancer bolt.
IF the balancer is a "good" fit, it is pressed on (hopefully with the proper tool, or a long piece of threaded rod - all the same to me!), and the torque on the bolt shouldn't really be that big of a deal, AS LONG AS IT IS TIGHT ENOUGH TO NOT LOOSEN DURING OPERATION.
How is a reused bolt (in this application, where there is no chance of any sort of gasket-crush; it's just a metal-on -metal contact) inferior to a new one?
How is a reused bolt (in this application, where there is no chance of any sort of gasket-crush; it's just a metal-on -metal contact) inferior to a new one?
The bolt is stretched during 140 degrees angle after the initial torque of 37 ft/lbs. That is a lot of tightening and stretching if you've ever installed the crank bolt by the manual. The old bolt is only used to set the balancer against the crankshaft with 240 ft/lb of torque then discarded. New bolt at 37 ft/lbs and 140* degrees.
I actually broke an impact socket tightening by hand when I hit the 140* degree mark. Scared the **** out of me thinking I broke off the crank bolt. After that scare I only use the 12pt ARP bolt that torques to spec instead of angle. The OEM bolt is only $5 so it makes since to change it. Some people hammer in the old bolt with an impact with zero issues and some go by the manual YMMV
QwkTrip, you know that I respect you and all of the work you've done, and all of the information you've shared, but I really don't see the point of discarding an undamaged harmonic balancer bolt.
Appreciate you too, bud.
I'm not sure there is any such thing as an undamaged torque-to-yield bolt. I think it is damaged by definition. The bolt is deformed (shape out of spec) and weakened. I don't know all the ramifications of that, but one thing I do know is it won't achieve the same clamping load as the first time.
But basically what you're asking is, How far out of spec can you go before it becomes a problem? In my mind questions like these must have a good reason or else it's a waste of time even talking about it. So first you've got to answer the question, What problem is being solved when somebody refused to follow the standard? The answer is clearly nothing. And re-using the bolt is actually creating a new risk that didn't exist before.
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Stripped harmonic balancer bolt. 
