Generation III Internal Engine 1997-2006 LS1 | LS6
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Achieving desired compression ratio

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Old Jan 7, 2020 | 05:13 PM
  #21  
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Oh hell yeah congrats man. I'd be excited to be going to an LS3. I doubt there's ever a time you'll look back and wish you had built the LS1, but if you had done an LS1 you would have likely been like **** I shoulda done a LS3

Did you make sure to ask for the proper reluctor wheel and cam gear setup for your PCM setup?

If I remember right the early gto had a gen 4 motor but used a 24x crank and 1x cam


Oh and above I meant to say you can get brand new stock LS3 heads for around 1200 if I recall correctly, and GMPP ported for around 1500. It's been a while since I looked up the pricing but that's pretty close.

Your budget for the TFS as cast heads should have been near 1800. You can get LS3 heads and intake and convert your injectors for that cost most likely. Then maybe do a WARR throttle body, they aren't very expensive and lots of guys love them. Heard a lot of good things about them. I think they are like $150 edit: they are $130

But you'll need to get some sort of bracket for your throttle cable to use on the LS3 intake. Or go ahead with cathedrals. But I would probably go a little bigger than the 220 cc on a 376 cube motor. Although they would still work great.

Sorry to muddy it up, just throwing out ideas.

Last edited by 00pooterSS; Jan 7, 2020 at 05:20 PM.
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Old Jan 7, 2020 | 05:17 PM
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Congrats, nice choice!
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Old Jan 7, 2020 | 05:24 PM
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Originally Posted by 00pooterSS
Oh hell yeah congrats man. I'd be excited to be going to an LS3. I doubt there's ever a time you'll look back and wish you had built the LS1, but if you had done an LS1 you would have likely been like **** I shoulda done a LS3

Did you make sure to ask for the proper reluctor wheel and cam gear setup for your PCM setup?

If I remember right the early gto had a gen 4 motor but used a 24x crank and 1x cam


Oh and above I meant to say you can get brand new stock LS3 heads for around 1200 if I recall correctly, and GMPP ported for around 1500. It's been a while since I looked up the pricing but that's pretty close.

Your budget for the TFS as cast heads should have been near 1800. You can get LS3 heads and intake and convert your injectors for that cost most likely. Then maybe do a WARR throttle body, they aren't very expensive and lots of guys love them. Heard a lot of good things about them. I think they are like $150 edit: they are $130

But you'll need to get some sort of bracket for your throttle cable to use on the LS3 intake. Or go ahead with cathedrals. But I would probably go a little bigger than the 220 cc on a 376 cube motor. Although they would still work great.

Sorry to muddy it up, just throwing out ideas.
Yep 24t reluctor and I went ahead and purchased their ls2 conversion kit which includes the timing set with 1x cam, cover with sensor and extension, and knock sensor extentions, valley cover, and ls2 lifter trays. I've got some time to wait on the motor to make up my mind on the top end and cam. I'm also a tight *** so it was very difficult to watch that much money disappear from my account even though I'm very happy with my choice. I'll give it a little time before I spend any more money...LOL. Trans on back, fuel system, and suspension is all pretty squared away. Trans is a built 4l60e by RPM, good stuff in the drive line, double adjustables in the rear, all bushing are poly in rear, after market springs, etc. E85 fuel system with magnafuel 4303 pump. The 4l60e is always questionable no matter who builds it, but I've had good luck with them and the nature of the procharger power delivery will hopefully ease it's pain as well...LOL

Last edited by BCNUL8R; Jan 7, 2020 at 05:29 PM.
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Old Jan 7, 2020 | 05:49 PM
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Hell yeah man. Sounds like the car is fully ready for more power. What stall is in it?
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Old Jan 7, 2020 | 06:06 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by 00pooterSS
Hell yeah man. Sounds like the car is fully ready for more power. What stall is in it?
It's the yank pas 3400.
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Old Jan 7, 2020 | 06:36 PM
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Bad ***.. but you're probably gonna be pushing that converters limits now lol. It never ends damnit
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Old Jan 7, 2020 | 07:23 PM
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Can choice should be interesting.
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Old Jan 7, 2020 | 07:52 PM
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Originally Posted by 00pooterSS
Bad ***.. but you're probably gonna be pushing that converters limits now lol. It never ends damnit
When I originally ordered it I told him my setup and that eventually I planned a forged motor with about 700 rwhp and this is the converter he recommended. So to start I should be in that area. With what we've seen with the D1x and E85 since then I'd expect to get around 800 rwhp pretty easy when I decide to max out the blower. At that point a lot of things could be near their limit...LOL.

Originally Posted by ddnspider
Can choice should be interesting.
I'm going to take my time a bit now and decide what I want to do for a top end then talk to some people after I get that figured out to help me with cam selection.
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Old Jan 8, 2020 | 10:43 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by BCNUL8R
When I originally ordered it I told him my setup and that eventually I planned a forged motor with about 700 rwhp and this is the converter he recommended. So to start I should be in that area. With what we've seen with the D1x and E85 since then I'd expect to get around 800 rwhp pretty easy when I decide to max out the blower. At that point a lot of things could be near their limit...LOL.



I'm going to take my time a bit now and decide what I want to do for a top end then talk to some people after I get that figured out to help me with cam selection.

Gotcha, I thought I saw it was rated for 650 hp, but I just checked and that was listed on the SS series, makes sense the PAS would hold more power.. just ignore me man lol
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Old Jan 8, 2020 | 11:04 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by 00pooterSS
Gotcha, I thought I saw it was rated for 650 hp, but I just checked and that was listed on the SS series, makes sense the PAS would hold more power.. just ignore me man lol
It has 650 rwhp listed for the Pas on the website as well. It seems most people are conservative with their power ratings and when I talked to both the trans and converter people I got the impression they felt more comfortable with higher power levels with the procharger and smaller cubic inch motor (non-stroker). The trans and converter is a concern, but I don't plan on giving it everything the blower can do right away either. Once my funds recover then I'll feel more comfortable seeing what the D1x can do at max impeller speed. I do my own tuning on the street and track so I'll start out with maybe 8 psi which I'm running 14 psi now on sbe. Ddnspider helped me a bunch early on learning to tune and I've gotten pretty confident tuning my own car and helping friends with tunes. I'm a patient tuner and will take my time working up to it, but hopefully by the end of this year it'll be pretty nasty.
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Old Jan 8, 2020 | 12:46 PM
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Yeah I agree, shifting the power upward in the rpm range is softer on parts. But that trans usually doesn't like over around 7k rpm unless the pump was modified to maintain pressure up high. You may talk to the trans builder about that. If it's good to go you may consider revving out to 7500 or so just to help the shifts land at a better rpm with the 4L60. Would be nice to click off each gear starting around 5k or so.
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Old Jan 8, 2020 | 01:07 PM
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Originally Posted by 00pooterSS
Yeah I agree, shifting the power upward in the rpm range is softer on parts. But that trans usually doesn't like over around 7k rpm unless the pump was modified to maintain pressure up high. You may talk to the trans builder about that. If it's good to go you may consider revving out to 7500 or so just to help the shifts land at a better rpm with the 4L60. Would be nice to click off each gear starting around 5k or so.
Currently shifting at 6800 rpm with the stock 3.46 gear and 26" tires on the 2/3 shift it drops down to about 5050 rpm. When I was on about 10 psi shifting at 6200 I raced a newer mustang. I killed it on reaction time and was out front until 3rd gear and it started pulling me in and got me by a fender in the 1/8th mile. I had never been ran down from behind by a street driven mustang in all my years. I've had some beat me, but they were out front from the 60' and I couldn't catch them. At that point I knew times had changed since I last raced and started turning it up to 14 psi and shifting at 6800. It made a huge difference not lugging low RPM's in third as I approach the 660'.
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