4.8/6.0 hybrid build
#21
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Okay I had to google it. It only makes sense the 4.8 rods would be longer with having a shorter stroke to keep the piston the same height as they are on the 5.3 and 6.0
The 4.8 rods are longer
You can slap the 4.8 pistons on the 5.3 crank and rods
For your destroker you'll need the 4.8 crank and rods to go with the larger pistons
Then hopefully you have all the floating/non floating rods and pistons lined out to work together. Depending on engine, year etc you'll have press pin or floating pin rods and pistons that you'll have to make sure jive together
Your destroker is going to get REAL expensive. One of the things you'll want to do is a solid roller setup. That alone gets pretty pricey. And it's a small piece of the puzzle. The oe hydraulic rollers aren't the greatest at real high rpm. You'll need an intake manifold and heads for it. And good rods and rod bolts.
Or get a gen 4 4.8 bore it, and intake manifold it, valve train and cam it and you'll be alright. Still.... it's $$$$
The 4.8 rods are longer
You can slap the 4.8 pistons on the 5.3 crank and rods
For your destroker you'll need the 4.8 crank and rods to go with the larger pistons
Then hopefully you have all the floating/non floating rods and pistons lined out to work together. Depending on engine, year etc you'll have press pin or floating pin rods and pistons that you'll have to make sure jive together
Your destroker is going to get REAL expensive. One of the things you'll want to do is a solid roller setup. That alone gets pretty pricey. And it's a small piece of the puzzle. The oe hydraulic rollers aren't the greatest at real high rpm. You'll need an intake manifold and heads for it. And good rods and rod bolts.
Or get a gen 4 4.8 bore it, and intake manifold it, valve train and cam it and you'll be alright. Still.... it's $$$$
#22
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The Detroit speed Camaro turns 8500 rpm with a 3.625" stroke, and that thing get the crap beaten out of it. I don't see why you think a 3.622 stroke couldn't handle 8000 rpm. Take the 6.0, upgrade the rod bolts, get a well sorted valve-train, a Holley hi-ram and send it.
#23
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Titan 4 is an excellent all around cam for a 5.7
Plenty big enough with excellent manners.
But if you want high rpm you can look at going a bit bigger, however the truck intake would just kill all the potential in a sense. TBSS is an okay truck manifold and the LS6 is okay. But you'd really want a FAST if you're gonna go that far with a cam and high revs. Or a MSD or even something like a sniper/high ram etc.
I'm not 100% sure if you can do 4.8 pistons on 3.622 stroke. I've always just though yeah sure that works, but all 3 of those have around .005 - .007 piston out of the hole measurements in stock form, and if you increase the stroke on the 4.8 setup the pistons would have to come up and out further. Makes me wonder if 4.8 rods are longer. Never read into it though.
I'm not sure on the hood clearance. You may be able to dig around in the conversions/hybrids forum for answers on that
I feel like we're all kicking the **** out of you for your ideas, not trying to if it's coming across like that. And I know it kinda is.
There's a lot of questions in one thread that can have a ton of answers for each idea so it's hard to cover them all.
Also, you don't need to destroke these things to rev them. You could rev out a gen 4 rodded motor just fine.
Replacing dish 5.3's with flat top 4.8's is always a good plan. Compression is good. The 706 heads are good too.
Larger throttle body on a truck intake, or any intake really that it isn't designed for is a complete waste of time. The opening in the intake is only so big, a larger throttle body cannot and will not outflow the size of the hole in the intake. You have to increase the size of the hole in the intake by cutting off the nose of the intake and putting a different larger nose on it to make any use of a larger throttle body.
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Plenty big enough with excellent manners.
But if you want high rpm you can look at going a bit bigger, however the truck intake would just kill all the potential in a sense. TBSS is an okay truck manifold and the LS6 is okay. But you'd really want a FAST if you're gonna go that far with a cam and high revs. Or a MSD or even something like a sniper/high ram etc.
I'm not 100% sure if you can do 4.8 pistons on 3.622 stroke. I've always just though yeah sure that works, but all 3 of those have around .005 - .007 piston out of the hole measurements in stock form, and if you increase the stroke on the 4.8 setup the pistons would have to come up and out further. Makes me wonder if 4.8 rods are longer. Never read into it though.
I'm not sure on the hood clearance. You may be able to dig around in the conversions/hybrids forum for answers on that
I feel like we're all kicking the **** out of you for your ideas, not trying to if it's coming across like that. And I know it kinda is.
There's a lot of questions in one thread that can have a ton of answers for each idea so it's hard to cover them all.
Also, you don't need to destroke these things to rev them. You could rev out a gen 4 rodded motor just fine.
Replacing dish 5.3's with flat top 4.8's is always a good plan. Compression is good. The 706 heads are good too.
Larger throttle body on a truck intake, or any intake really that it isn't designed for is a complete waste of time. The opening in the intake is only so big, a larger throttle body cannot and will not outflow the size of the hole in the intake. You have to increase the size of the hole in the intake by cutting off the nose of the intake and putting a different larger nose on it to make any use of a larger throttle body.
.
#24
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I typed part of that weird and to be clear i was just trying to point out that the rods would be different if you're trying to use 4.8 rods and to make sure you keep in mind they are different and to account for it.
What intake are you going to use the 92 on?
WARR throttle bodies have been real popular for working well and being low cost
What intake are you going to use the 92 on?
WARR throttle bodies have been real popular for working well and being low cost
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I typed part of that weird and to be clear i was just trying to point out that the rods would be different if you're trying to use 4.8 rods and to make sure you keep in mind they are different and to account for it.
What intake are you going to use the 92 on?
WARR throttle bodies have been real popular for working well and being low cost
What intake are you going to use the 92 on?
WARR throttle bodies have been real popular for working well and being low cost
#26
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The truck intake is surprisingly good. Don't be in a hurry to trash it.
Last edited by G Atsma; 01-24-2020 at 03:57 PM.
#27
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If this is the one going on your daily that wont be high revving etc just put the truck intake and throttle body on it.
Too many conversations in one here and I can't keep up with what is what or why etc..
Why are you basing everything around a 92mm throttle body instead of seeing what you want, and getting it, and then deciding on the size that goes with it??? I can't anymore with this thread. It's making my head hurt.
Too many conversations in one here and I can't keep up with what is what or why etc..
Why are you basing everything around a 92mm throttle body instead of seeing what you want, and getting it, and then deciding on the size that goes with it??? I can't anymore with this thread. It's making my head hurt.
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If this is the one going on your daily that wont be high revving etc just put the truck intake and throttle body on it.
Too many conversations in one here and I can't keep up with what is what or why etc..
Why are you basing everything around a 92mm throttle body instead of seeing what you want, and getting it, and then deciding on the size that goes with it??? I can't anymore with this thread. It's making my head hurt.
Too many conversations in one here and I can't keep up with what is what or why etc..
Why are you basing everything around a 92mm throttle body instead of seeing what you want, and getting it, and then deciding on the size that goes with it??? I can't anymore with this thread. It's making my head hurt.
#29
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Only if the intake you choose is made to run a 92 mm intake and only if the intake you choose is better than the truck intake and only if that intake is right for your particular setup.
Look at this like wheels and tires. You don't find a set of wheels at a pawn shop and build a car to fit them. You buy a car and then find what fits it, and find out what fits based on your intended usage of the vehicle.
Yes porting a stock throttle body can help.
I'm glad you're sticking in there and asking questions, but I gotta say it seems like you know just enough to be dangerous. You want a 92mm throttle body before even knowing what intake you're gonna run. That's like buying tires before you have any idea what size wheel you're gonna buy. Or knowing what car you'll put the setup on.
Look at this like wheels and tires. You don't find a set of wheels at a pawn shop and build a car to fit them. You buy a car and then find what fits it, and find out what fits based on your intended usage of the vehicle.
Yes porting a stock throttle body can help.
I'm glad you're sticking in there and asking questions, but I gotta say it seems like you know just enough to be dangerous. You want a 92mm throttle body before even knowing what intake you're gonna run. That's like buying tires before you have any idea what size wheel you're gonna buy. Or knowing what car you'll put the setup on.
Last edited by 00pooterSS; 01-24-2020 at 02:06 PM.
#30
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Only if the intake you choose is made to run a 92 mm intake and only if the intake you choose is better than the truck intake and only if that intake is right for your particular setup.
Look at this like wheels and tires. You don't find a set of wheels at a pawn shop and build a car to fit them. You buy a car and then find what fits it, and find out what fits based on your intended usage of the vehicle.
Yes porting a stock throttle body can help.
I'm glad you're sticking in there and asking questions, but I gotta say it seems like you just enough to be dangerous. You want a 92mm throttle body before even knowing what intake you're gonna run. That's like buying tires before you have any idea what size wheel you're gonna buy. Or knowing what car you'll put the setup on.
Look at this like wheels and tires. You don't find a set of wheels at a pawn shop and build a car to fit them. You buy a car and then find what fits it, and find out what fits based on your intended usage of the vehicle.
Yes porting a stock throttle body can help.
I'm glad you're sticking in there and asking questions, but I gotta say it seems like you just enough to be dangerous. You want a 92mm throttle body before even knowing what intake you're gonna run. That's like buying tires before you have any idea what size wheel you're gonna buy. Or knowing what car you'll put the setup on.
#31
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On a mostly stock setup you'll see a few horsepower, around 5-10 max, may be as low as 2 or so, through a ported throttle body. Depending on how bad the original throttle body is. Most people also feel better response from the ported throttle body, even if it doesn't increase horsepower
On that same setup with an after market intake and throttle body you'll get around 15-20 ish at high rpm. Probably nothing below around 4000 rpm, maybe 5000. Possibly a drop in horsepower and response below that RPM with a big intake and throttle body
With a big bad motor with heads, cam, big bore, etc the intake and throttle body will become a much larger restriction and the power to be gained will be much more. Right now your intake and throttle body on a stock motor aren't killing much of anything. Headers and exhaust would do far more for you than a throttle body. It's about getting air in and out. It is hard to breathe through a straw, but not if the air is moving rapidly in that straw. If air is coming in fast into that straw it will fill your lungs without you breathing. That's the goal with an engine, get the air speed to do the work of cylinder filling to hopefully over fill the cylinder. Read into cylinder filling and volumetric efficiency to understand more.
The thing here is knowing whether or not your intake and throttle body are a restriction and how much of a restriction. It's only going to help if the intake and throttle body are suffocating the engine for flow.
Throttle body sizing also has a lot to do with response. Not just power.
There is no easy answer here, it's very complex.
When it comes to airflow, making it easy for the air to flow, is almost always, more important than opening the size of the hole the air flows through. Engines don't breathe slow like we do. They need air speed to make things happen well.
Air is like water at speed. It does not like to hit walls and have to make sharp turns. It will launch over a hump. It needs smooth transitions that help it keep up velocity (aka not slow it down) and that is the best way to make power because it is more efficient and gives the engine a better feel. A large hole flows plenty of air, but it does it at a slower speed. A smaller very efficient hole makes the air flow fast and that is what efficiency, power, and throttle response comes from.
All of that is a pretty dumbed down explanation too.
On that same setup with an after market intake and throttle body you'll get around 15-20 ish at high rpm. Probably nothing below around 4000 rpm, maybe 5000. Possibly a drop in horsepower and response below that RPM with a big intake and throttle body
With a big bad motor with heads, cam, big bore, etc the intake and throttle body will become a much larger restriction and the power to be gained will be much more. Right now your intake and throttle body on a stock motor aren't killing much of anything. Headers and exhaust would do far more for you than a throttle body. It's about getting air in and out. It is hard to breathe through a straw, but not if the air is moving rapidly in that straw. If air is coming in fast into that straw it will fill your lungs without you breathing. That's the goal with an engine, get the air speed to do the work of cylinder filling to hopefully over fill the cylinder. Read into cylinder filling and volumetric efficiency to understand more.
The thing here is knowing whether or not your intake and throttle body are a restriction and how much of a restriction. It's only going to help if the intake and throttle body are suffocating the engine for flow.
Throttle body sizing also has a lot to do with response. Not just power.
There is no easy answer here, it's very complex.
When it comes to airflow, making it easy for the air to flow, is almost always, more important than opening the size of the hole the air flows through. Engines don't breathe slow like we do. They need air speed to make things happen well.
Air is like water at speed. It does not like to hit walls and have to make sharp turns. It will launch over a hump. It needs smooth transitions that help it keep up velocity (aka not slow it down) and that is the best way to make power because it is more efficient and gives the engine a better feel. A large hole flows plenty of air, but it does it at a slower speed. A smaller very efficient hole makes the air flow fast and that is what efficiency, power, and throttle response comes from.
All of that is a pretty dumbed down explanation too.
Last edited by 00pooterSS; 01-24-2020 at 02:06 PM.
#32
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Hello everyone there is an article in an old "Hot Rod" mag entitled "The 350 Chevy Should Have Made" about 2 guys that took a sm bl 400 bored .030" to 4.155" and a 327" crank(3.25" stroke) Ford 300 rods(6.209" length) j & e custom pistons with higher pin location, 11 to 1 heads, stock cam, Rochester quadrajet, GM HEI ignition and long tubes and because of the increase in rod ratio were able to run 36 deg total ign advance 352 cu in developed 412 hp and 435 lb/ft tq on 87 oct pump gas. So I did My best to estimate the power difference using gen 1 350 everything else being the same and I came up with 150 lb/ft more tq and 160-175 more hp So the ls based 6.0 l block bored and the 4.8 L 3.27" crank is something that I and many others have thought about and some have done but I haven't seen anyones results so I'm going to search these forums. The 4.8 L pistons have the same compression height as 5.3 and 6.0 pistons and 5.7 pistons and 6.2 as well. Anyway good luck and if You do build the 6.0 block oversize bore and 4.8L crank and rods let us know how it turns out
#33
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Hello everyone there is an article in an old "Hot Rod" mag entitled "The 350 Chevy Should Have Made" about 2 guys that took a sm bl 400 bored .030" to 4.155" and a 327" crank(3.25" stroke) Ford 300 rods(6.209" length) j & e custom pistons with higher pin location, 11 to 1 heads, stock cam, Rochester quadrajet, GM HEI ignition and long tubes and because of the increase in rod ratio were able to run 36 deg total ign advance 352 cu in developed 412 hp and 435 lb/ft tq on 87 oct pump gas. So I did My best to estimate the power difference using gen 1 350 everything else being the same and I came up with 150 lb/ft more tq and 160-175 more hp So the ls based 6.0 l block bored and the 4.8 L 3.27" crank is something that I and many others have thought about and some have done but I haven't seen anyones results so I'm going to search these forums. The 4.8 L pistons have the same compression height as 5.3 and 6.0 pistons and 5.7 pistons and 6.2 as well. Anyway good luck and if You do build the 6.0 block oversize bore and 4.8L crank and rods let us know how it turns out