It's still going to make obnoxious lowend torque.
Need inputs on my piston/rod choice
A lot of things aren't meant to do the things we do with them...LOL...the 2300 blowers are a lot more common in the GTO world than they are with f body's. There is a long list of sbe ls1 and ls2's with 2300 blowers over on the old gto forum living long lives at 600-700 rwhp and one at over 700 rwhp has lived many years.
So, after comparing costs, the price difference between pistons/rods/bearings/balancing and buying a balanced rotating assembly is about $600. It would probably be smart to replace the crank, since it is already going to come off to have the assembly balanced.
Why does he need a better block? Can you show where an aluminum block is a failure point before anything else? Ive yet to see and block failures because the block was not a cast iron block. I think this is a myth. Richard Holdener proved that too. I better tell my buddy with his 8 second car that he better change blocks, right? lol
I thought that the LS1 block could handle low 20's PSI. Bored to 3.903, mid to upper teens PSI should be perfectly fine.
It is a daily driver, and will only see over 5K RPMs one a dyno and maybe a few times a year at the drag strip.
It is a daily driver, and will only see over 5K RPMs one a dyno and maybe a few times a year at the drag strip.
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since you said get a better block, then above guy says the block will be fine, then you say it would be forged....i have to assume you are still referring to the block? Because I've never seen a "forged block". Nor do i have a clue how you could "forge the engine" . However, You can install a forged crank, forged pistons and H beam or I beam rods.
Why does he need a better block? Can you show where an aluminum block is a failure point before anything else? Ive yet to see and block failures because the block was not a cast iron block. I think this is a myth. Richard Holdener proved that too. I better tell my buddy with his 8 second car that he better change blocks, right? lol
Why does he need a better block? Can you show where an aluminum block is a failure point before anything else? Ive yet to see and block failures because the block was not a cast iron block. I think this is a myth. Richard Holdener proved that too. I better tell my buddy with his 8 second car that he better change blocks, right? lol
Chances are you will still go over 5k rpms by accident when you blow the tires off.
I just hit 16 psi and 7k about an hour ago. 
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 369
Likes: 14
From: Canton, GA
I was mostly just trying to make the point that the stock crank is perfectly fine. A forged crank isn't really worth the money for something under 900 HP. A 5.3 block would be money better spent.
I will be doing something similar but using the stock crank with boost.
I will be doing something similar but using the stock crank with boost.
Since we are already beyond that point... 1. Is there a reason you are rebuilding the motor. Is it something you feel needs done so might as well put forged rods and pistons in it while you're doing it or is there nothing wrong with it and you are rebuilding it specifically to go forged? 2. Stock crank will be fine either way for a blower at how fast you will need to spin it to make 10 psi on your setup. 3. If it makes financial sense to go ahead and buy a balanced assembly complete and you are going to buy a forged crank anyway then get the 4" stroke and build a 383. More torque in the lower rpm now where you are going to spend all your time mr never goes over 5k rpm...LOL...just giving you a hard time. The stroker definitely isn't needed, but if you do eventually put the 2300 on it you would need even less boost to make the power the 347 would of at 10 psi.
I think what you're saying is a stock 5.3 will handle the amount of power he is trying to make and you would be correct. I don't think his heads he spent a bunch of $$$ on will work with a 5.3 bore. He started off all wrong in my opinion by spending half the cost of a blower on heads.
Since we are already beyond that point... 1. Is there a reason you are rebuilding the motor. Is it something you feel needs done so might as well put forged rods and pistons in it while you're doing it or is there nothing wrong with it and you are rebuilding it specifically to go forged? 2. Stock crank will be fine either way for a blower at how fast you will need to spin it to make 10 psi on your setup. 3. If it makes financial sense to go ahead and buy a balanced assembly complete and you are going to buy a forged crank anyway then get the 4" stroke and build a 383. More torque in the lower rpm now where you are going to spend all your time mr never goes over 5k rpm...LOL...just giving you a hard time. The stroker definitely isn't needed, but if you do eventually put the 2300 on it you would need even less boost to make the power the 347 would of at 10 psi.
Since we are already beyond that point... 1. Is there a reason you are rebuilding the motor. Is it something you feel needs done so might as well put forged rods and pistons in it while you're doing it or is there nothing wrong with it and you are rebuilding it specifically to go forged? 2. Stock crank will be fine either way for a blower at how fast you will need to spin it to make 10 psi on your setup. 3. If it makes financial sense to go ahead and buy a balanced assembly complete and you are going to buy a forged crank anyway then get the 4" stroke and build a 383. More torque in the lower rpm now where you are going to spend all your time mr never goes over 5k rpm...LOL...just giving you a hard time. The stroker definitely isn't needed, but if you do eventually put the 2300 on it you would need even less boost to make the power the 347 would of at 10 psi.
I don't want a 383 stroker. I do not want more stroke than bore. 370 stroker might be an option though.
