LS1 block - 346 vs 383
03-19-2020, 05:57 PM
#21
Doing a 383 vs a 346 the difference in cost is often amounts to the cost of the aftermarket crank since either engine will get new rods & new pistons. Is it worth roughly ~$750 to $850 to gain ~37 cubic inches and ~ 40 rear wheel torque?
If it's a fun driver NA car I think so. If it's a car one wants to run a serious power added on like a big shot of NOS or boost, I'd say not worth the cost. The $800 or so dollars are better spent elsewhere.
Out of the six or so different LS set ups I've had my mild mannered LS1 383 NA stroker motor is my favorite BUT its in a driver/street car and the extra low end makes for a very easy to drive fun car. A lot of folks would say my LS1 383 & 416 are both perfect tow truck motor due to the fat bottom end at low rpm. If you like old Pontiac 400's with fat bottom ends you'll appreciate the stroker in my opinion. If big boost or big shots of NOS or buzzing o 7,500 rpm is your desire probably best to pass on the 4 inch crank strokers.
LS1 383 strokers are typically worth 0 to 5 whp & 30 to 40 wtq over the same top end on a otherwise similar LS1 346/347 based on my observations over the last 20 years.
If it's a fun driver NA car I think so. If it's a car one wants to run a serious power added on like a big shot of NOS or boost, I'd say not worth the cost. The $800 or so dollars are better spent elsewhere.
Out of the six or so different LS set ups I've had my mild mannered LS1 383 NA stroker motor is my favorite BUT its in a driver/street car and the extra low end makes for a very easy to drive fun car. A lot of folks would say my LS1 383 & 416 are both perfect tow truck motor due to the fat bottom end at low rpm. If you like old Pontiac 400's with fat bottom ends you'll appreciate the stroker in my opinion. If big boost or big shots of NOS or buzzing o 7,500 rpm is your desire probably best to pass on the 4 inch crank strokers.
LS1 383 strokers are typically worth 0 to 5 whp & 30 to 40 wtq over the same top end on a otherwise similar LS1 346/347 based on my observations over the last 20 years.
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99 Black Bird T/A (03-19-2020)
03-20-2020, 11:12 AM
#25
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Hi there, balanced isn't available yet but we're working on that. The crank and rods are forged in China and finished in the US. These are of the highest quality available out of China and the same ones used by the premium crank/rod brands. The Rods receive genuine ARP bolts here in the USA before the big and small ends are finished honed and further finish work and inspection done. The Pistons are 100% forged and machined in the USA and same for the rings. You will be pleased with them.
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64post (05-20-2020)
03-20-2020, 11:16 AM
#26
Hi there, balanced isn't available yet but we're working on that. The crank and rods are forged in China and finished in the US. These are of the highest quality available out of China and the same ones used by the premium crank/rod brands. The Rods receive genuine ARP bolts here in the USA before the big and small ends are finished honed and further finish work and inspection done. The Pistons are 100% forged and machined in the USA and same for the rings. You will be pleased with them.
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Rickys2003svt.cobra (03-29-2020)
03-27-2020, 02:01 PM
#32
TSP and Thompson sell balanced rotating assemblies.
There are others who aren't sponsors. But you can just search for balanced 4" stroke LS rotating assemblies, and you'll get a selection.
If however, you are using a local machine shop to prep the block, they can balance the rotating assembly as well. So, not really needed unless you're buying a block ready to go.
ATK for example has 5.3L blocks that are bored to 3.903" and ready to use. They are iron blocks.
That's if you were going to assemble yourself and not use a machine shop at all. It is a good way to lower the price, but only if you know what you're doing and have access to the proper tools.
Also, there's usually a 408 or 383 or forged 346 or 6L or something like that in the classifieds. Scope that out for a few weeks and you can usually score a pretty good deal.
There are others who aren't sponsors. But you can just search for balanced 4" stroke LS rotating assemblies, and you'll get a selection.
If however, you are using a local machine shop to prep the block, they can balance the rotating assembly as well. So, not really needed unless you're buying a block ready to go.
ATK for example has 5.3L blocks that are bored to 3.903" and ready to use. They are iron blocks.
That's if you were going to assemble yourself and not use a machine shop at all. It is a good way to lower the price, but only if you know what you're doing and have access to the proper tools.
Also, there's usually a 408 or 383 or forged 346 or 6L or something like that in the classifieds. Scope that out for a few weeks and you can usually score a pretty good deal.
03-27-2020, 02:05 PM
#33
I went from an ls2 6.0 with milled ls3 heads, ported ls3 intake, custom grind cam that made 455 rwhp, to a 416 with stock ls6 heads, victor jr intake and went from 455/425 to 505/490. Not apples to apples changing the intake etc but that 416 was a whole new beast compared to the 6.0
03-29-2020, 06:08 PM
#34
TSP and Thompson sell balanced rotating assemblies.
There are others who aren't sponsors. But you can just search for balanced 4" stroke LS rotating assemblies, and you'll get a selection.
If however, you are using a local machine shop to prep the block, they can balance the rotating assembly as well. So, not really needed unless you're buying a block ready to go.
ATK for example has 5.3L blocks that are bored to 3.903" and ready to use. They are iron blocks.
That's if you were going to assemble yourself and not use a machine shop at all. It is a good way to lower the price, but only if you know what you're doing and have access to the proper tools.
Also, there's usually a 408 or 383 or forged 346 or 6L or something like that in the classifieds. Scope that out for a few weeks and you can usually score a pretty good deal.
There are others who aren't sponsors. But you can just search for balanced 4" stroke LS rotating assemblies, and you'll get a selection.
If however, you are using a local machine shop to prep the block, they can balance the rotating assembly as well. So, not really needed unless you're buying a block ready to go.
ATK for example has 5.3L blocks that are bored to 3.903" and ready to use. They are iron blocks.
That's if you were going to assemble yourself and not use a machine shop at all. It is a good way to lower the price, but only if you know what you're doing and have access to the proper tools.
Also, there's usually a 408 or 383 or forged 346 or 6L or something like that in the classifieds. Scope that out for a few weeks and you can usually score a pretty good deal.
04-26-2020, 12:47 AM
#36
The cost to prep my LS1 block to build as a 347 or 383 was the same. Doing a forged 347 vs 383 the only cost difference was in the 4 inch crank vs using stock crank and the balancing.
Texas Speed & Performance website shows the cost difference basically as the crank.
Last edited by 99 Black Bird T/A; 04-26-2020 at 02:42 AM.
04-26-2020, 01:58 PM
#39
Bore to and hone with pressure plate to final bore of 3.903”
Mill block deck flatness (this might not be needed since the block only has 60k)
Clearance block for 4” crank
Replace freeze plugs
Replace cam bearings
Balance the rotating assembly
File fit piston rings
Install the rotating assembly
Mill block deck flatness (this might not be needed since the block only has 60k)
Clearance block for 4” crank
Replace freeze plugs
Replace cam bearings
Balance the rotating assembly
File fit piston rings
Install the rotating assembly
05-18-2020, 08:14 AM
#40
Teching In
Bore to and hone with pressure plate to final bore of 3.903”
Mill block deck flatness (this might not be needed since the block only has 60k)
Clearance block for 4” crank
Replace freeze plugs
Replace cam bearings
Balance the rotating assembly
File fit piston rings
Install the rotating assembly
Mill block deck flatness (this might not be needed since the block only has 60k)
Clearance block for 4” crank
Replace freeze plugs
Replace cam bearings
Balance the rotating assembly
File fit piston rings
Install the rotating assembly