Are these heads useable or useless
Run a double roller chain next time. I've always ran rollmaster double and impressed with the quality. I had over 70,000 hard miles on my first ls1 with rollmaster double red series and when i removed the cam to return the car to standard, the chain was still nice and tight.
If you have an LS2/3.. just need to grind the inside of the timing cover to make it clear. On my ls1's for some reason i never needed to grind the cover. But i think it must be the oil pumps that are different, the later oil pumps hit the cover and the early didn't. On my LS2 which i'm buidling and i have on the engine stand i found the factory timing cover hits the oil pump with rollmaster double chain, and i had to grind it down a lot inside around where the oil seal is. Worth the effort!
If you have an LS2/3.. just need to grind the inside of the timing cover to make it clear. On my ls1's for some reason i never needed to grind the cover. But i think it must be the oil pumps that are different, the later oil pumps hit the cover and the early didn't. On my LS2 which i'm buidling and i have on the engine stand i found the factory timing cover hits the oil pump with rollmaster double chain, and i had to grind it down a lot inside around where the oil seal is. Worth the effort!
I will typically run the C5R single chain on a performance build and have not been let down. I am giving the roll master iwis chain a shake on current build.
Were you running a chain dampener? If not, highly recommended.
On the heads, I suggest grabbing a set of used 799 or 243, have a valve job done, bump up the springs a bit, and if you were still on stock pushrods, bump up to 5/16 or even 11/32. Few extra dollars in the right places should save you a lot of grief later.
Were you running a chain dampener? If not, highly recommended.
On the heads, I suggest grabbing a set of used 799 or 243, have a valve job done, bump up the springs a bit, and if you were still on stock pushrods, bump up to 5/16 or even 11/32. Few extra dollars in the right places should save you a lot of grief later.
Originally Posted by Launch
Run a double roller chain next time. I've always ran rollmaster double and impressed with the quality. I had over 70,000 hard miles on my first ls1 with rollmaster double red series and when i removed the cam to return the car to standard, the chain was still nice and tight.
If you have an LS2/3.. just need to grind the inside of the timing cover to make it clear. On my ls1's for some reason i never needed to grind the cover. But i think it must be the oil pumps that are different, the later oil pumps hit the cover and the early didn't. On my LS2 which i'm buidling and i have on the engine stand i found the factory timing cover hits the oil pump with rollmaster double chain, and i had to grind it down a lot inside around where the oil seal is. Worth the effort!
If you have an LS2/3.. just need to grind the inside of the timing cover to make it clear. On my ls1's for some reason i never needed to grind the cover. But i think it must be the oil pumps that are different, the later oil pumps hit the cover and the early didn't. On my LS2 which i'm buidling and i have on the engine stand i found the factory timing cover hits the oil pump with rollmaster double chain, and i had to grind it down a lot inside around where the oil seal is. Worth the effort!
Originally Posted by Darth_V8r
I will typically run the C5R single chain on a performance build and have not been let down. I am giving the roll master iwis chain a shake on current build.
Were you running a chain dampener? If not, highly recommended.
On the heads, I suggest grabbing a set of used 799 or 243, have a valve job done, bump up the springs a bit, and if you were still on stock pushrods, bump up to 5/16 or even 11/32. Few extra dollars in the right places should save you a lot of grief later.
Were you running a chain dampener? If not, highly recommended.
On the heads, I suggest grabbing a set of used 799 or 243, have a valve job done, bump up the springs a bit, and if you were still on stock pushrods, bump up to 5/16 or even 11/32. Few extra dollars in the right places should save you a lot of grief later.
I was just checking if these were usable for my daily f-body camaro
Originally Posted by Launch
Run a double roller chain next time. I've always ran rollmaster double and impressed with the quality. I had over 70,000 hard miles on my first ls1 with rollmaster double red series and when i removed the cam to return the car to standard, the chain was still nice and tight.
If you have an LS2/3.. just need to grind the inside of the timing cover to make it clear. On my ls1's for some reason i never needed to grind the cover. But i think it must be the oil pumps that are different, the later oil pumps hit the cover and the early didn't. On my LS2 which i'm buidling and i have on the engine stand i found the factory timing cover hits the oil pump with rollmaster double chain, and i had to grind it down a lot inside around where the oil seal is. Worth the effort!
If you have an LS2/3.. just need to grind the inside of the timing cover to make it clear. On my ls1's for some reason i never needed to grind the cover. But i think it must be the oil pumps that are different, the later oil pumps hit the cover and the early didn't. On my LS2 which i'm buidling and i have on the engine stand i found the factory timing cover hits the oil pump with rollmaster double chain, and i had to grind it down a lot inside around where the oil seal is. Worth the effort!
Originally Posted by Darth_V8r
I will typically run the C5R single chain on a performance build and have not been let down. I am giving the roll master iwis chain a shake on current build.
Were you running a chain dampener? If not, highly recommended.
On the heads, I suggest grabbing a set of used 799 or 243, have a valve job done, bump up the springs a bit, and if you were still on stock pushrods, bump up to 5/16 or even 11/32. Few extra dollars in the right places should save you a lot of grief later.
Were you running a chain dampener? If not, highly recommended.
On the heads, I suggest grabbing a set of used 799 or 243, have a valve job done, bump up the springs a bit, and if you were still on stock pushrods, bump up to 5/16 or even 11/32. Few extra dollars in the right places should save you a lot of grief later.






