Generation III Internal Engine 1997-2006 LS1 | LS6
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Are these heads useable or useless

Old Jul 11, 2020 | 04:47 PM
  #21  
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when heads/engines are so cheap and plentiful...why would you even consider using them ?
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Old Jul 11, 2020 | 04:52 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by BoostedTurtle
It was a comp stock replacement we just wanted to make as much power as possible on a completely stock engine
Well you definitely found a weak link and painful sight to see for sure!
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Old Jul 17, 2020 | 11:15 PM
  #23  
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Run a double roller chain next time. I've always ran rollmaster double and impressed with the quality. I had over 70,000 hard miles on my first ls1 with rollmaster double red series and when i removed the cam to return the car to standard, the chain was still nice and tight.

If you have an LS2/3.. just need to grind the inside of the timing cover to make it clear. On my ls1's for some reason i never needed to grind the cover. But i think it must be the oil pumps that are different, the later oil pumps hit the cover and the early didn't. On my LS2 which i'm buidling and i have on the engine stand i found the factory timing cover hits the oil pump with rollmaster double chain, and i had to grind it down a lot inside around where the oil seal is. Worth the effort!
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Old Jul 18, 2020 | 08:29 AM
  #24  
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I will typically run the C5R single chain on a performance build and have not been let down. I am giving the roll master iwis chain a shake on current build.

Were you running a chain dampener? If not, highly recommended.

On the heads, I suggest grabbing a set of used 799 or 243, have a valve job done, bump up the springs a bit, and if you were still on stock pushrods, bump up to 5/16 or even 11/32. Few extra dollars in the right places should save you a lot of grief later.
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Old Jul 19, 2020 | 02:18 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Launch
Run a double roller chain next time. I've always ran rollmaster double and impressed with the quality. I had over 70,000 hard miles on my first ls1 with rollmaster double red series and when i removed the cam to return the car to standard, the chain was still nice and tight.

If you have an LS2/3.. just need to grind the inside of the timing cover to make it clear. On my ls1's for some reason i never needed to grind the cover. But i think it must be the oil pumps that are different, the later oil pumps hit the cover and the early didn't. On my LS2 which i'm buidling and i have on the engine stand i found the factory timing cover hits the oil pump with rollmaster double chain, and i had to grind it down a lot inside around where the oil seal is. Worth the effort!
Originally Posted by Darth_V8r
I will typically run the C5R single chain on a performance build and have not been let down. I am giving the roll master iwis chain a shake on current build.

Were you running a chain dampener? If not, highly recommended.

On the heads, I suggest grabbing a set of used 799 or 243, have a valve job done, bump up the springs a bit, and if you were still on stock pushrods, bump up to 5/16 or even 11/32. Few extra dollars in the right places should save you a lot of grief later.
Now I'm running Manley billet dual timing chain on our new turbo build so we're good on that
I was just checking if these were usable for my daily f-body camaro
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Old Jul 19, 2020 | 02:22 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Launch
Run a double roller chain next time. I've always ran rollmaster double and impressed with the quality. I had over 70,000 hard miles on my first ls1 with rollmaster double red series and when i removed the cam to return the car to standard, the chain was still nice and tight.

If you have an LS2/3.. just need to grind the inside of the timing cover to make it clear. On my ls1's for some reason i never needed to grind the cover. But i think it must be the oil pumps that are different, the later oil pumps hit the cover and the early didn't. On my LS2 which i'm buidling and i have on the engine stand i found the factory timing cover hits the oil pump with rollmaster double chain, and i had to grind it down a lot inside around where the oil seal is. Worth the effort!
Originally Posted by Darth_V8r
I will typically run the C5R single chain on a performance build and have not been let down. I am giving the roll master iwis chain a shake on current build.

Were you running a chain dampener? If not, highly recommended.

On the heads, I suggest grabbing a set of used 799 or 243, have a valve job done, bump up the springs a bit, and if you were still on stock pushrods, bump up to 5/16 or even 11/32. Few extra dollars in the right places should save you a lot of grief later.
Here's some pictures of the new 6.0 setup
Attached Thumbnails Are these heads useable or useless-photo31.jpg   Are these heads useable or useless-photo572.jpg   Are these heads useable or useless-photo941.jpg   Are these heads useable or useless-photo422.jpg   Are these heads useable or useless-photo654.jpg  

Are these heads useable or useless-photo404.jpg   Are these heads useable or useless-photo882.jpg   Are these heads useable or useless-photo835.jpg   Are these heads useable or useless-photo610.jpg   Are these heads useable or useless-photo919.jpg  

Are these heads useable or useless-photo633.jpg   Are these heads useable or useless-photo786.jpg   Are these heads useable or useless-photo263.jpg   Are these heads useable or useless-photo11.jpg   Are these heads useable or useless-photo567.jpg  

Are these heads useable or useless-photo247.jpg  
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