*Cam opinion's and advice*
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 3,392
Likes: 220
From: North Carolina
The guy I bought the heads from was running a 235/243 62x/62x 113 cam in a stock short block. I actually bought the whole long block and sold the short block and kept the heads.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 3,392
Likes: 220
From: North Carolina
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,845
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From: Coast of San Mateo County Between Pacifica & HMB
"Maximum Effort STRIP Car..... This will have a HEAVY Lope at idle".
LOL, this is about a 12 on your 1-10 scale.
With your current heads Titan 4 Cam,FAST 92/90, 1 7/8" LTs and True Duals (just remembered)
you have enough power for Mid 11s (with traction and suspension) in decent DA/conditions and still a very
fun car to drive on the street.
The Titan 5 would be about ~9 on your scale.
Titan King Too Big IMO based on your stated goals.
Killer with Aftermarket Heads & MMS MSD & 4.30:1 + for a Max Effort Race Car.
Just my .02
Last edited by NAVYBLUE210; Jul 13, 2020 at 02:09 PM.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 3,392
Likes: 220
From: North Carolina
Yeah I seen that. That's why I was like 🤔
Just curious if you read the description on their website?
"Maximum Effort STRIP Car..... This will have a HEAVY Lope at idle.
LOL, this is about a 12 on your 1-10 scale.
With your current heads Titan 4 Cam,FAST 92/90, 1 7/8" LTs and a GOOD Y (don't choke the exhaust)
you have enough power for Mid 11s (with traction and suspension) in decent DA/conditions and still a very
fun car to drive on the street.
The Titan 5 would be about ~9 on your scale.
Titan King Too Big IMO based on your stated goals.
Killer with Aftermarket Heads & MMS MSD & 4.30:1 + for a Max Effort Race Car.
Just my .02
"Maximum Effort STRIP Car..... This will have a HEAVY Lope at idle.
LOL, this is about a 12 on your 1-10 scale.
With your current heads Titan 4 Cam,FAST 92/90, 1 7/8" LTs and a GOOD Y (don't choke the exhaust)
you have enough power for Mid 11s (with traction and suspension) in decent DA/conditions and still a very
fun car to drive on the street.
The Titan 5 would be about ~9 on your scale.
Titan King Too Big IMO based on your stated goals.
Killer with Aftermarket Heads & MMS MSD & 4.30:1 + for a Max Effort Race Car.
Just my .02
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Jan 2017
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Ya, Thats why I was asking what you told them. I disagree with their recommendation. The Titan 3 however would be an excellent choice. Wouldnt run titan king unless you put in aftermarket pistons and raise compression to 12:1. Get a nice driving cam and squeeze it if you want to go extra fast. Too big and you will hate it. I have a similar cam in my car as the titan king but with more cubes and it still has some minor driving quirks.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 3,392
Likes: 220
From: North Carolina
Thanks for your advice. Yea I highly doubt I go that radical such as the King Titan or BTR 4. It will get street driven also so I dont want it to be a complete pain in the ***.
Ya, Thats why I was asking what you told them. I disagree with their recommendation. The Titan 3 however would be an excellent choice. Wouldnt run titan king unless you put in aftermarket pistons and raise compression to 12:1. Get a nice driving cam and squeeze it if you want to go extra fast. Too big and you will hate it. I have a similar cam in my car as the titan king but with more cubes and it still has some minor driving quirks.
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From: North Carolina
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Ya I'm not sure what's going on with that. Converter isnt even that radica . Anyways, I look at it like this, you want a weekend warrior, might drive it once or twice and probably wont roadtrip with it but maybe you want to be able to if you wanted. I'd build it to drive nice and make good power, you can always lower the idle to sound nastier at the parking lot and if you want to go fast, 1500 bucks will get you a nitrous kit and you will be much faster then a big cam car that drives like garbage on no nitrous. Its ALWAYS better to get a cam a bit too small then too big for a street car. You are also limited by the top end for peak power potential, play to its strengths. If it were me, I'd get the Titan 3 cam but the titan 4 will work great too, sacrifice a little down low for some more up top. Up to you. I wouldnt go bigger than that.
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From: Coast of San Mateo County Between Pacifica & HMB
Last point I will make on this thread is that the Cam Motion Cams have a smoother profile/acceleration rate VS the Comps,
While this can trade off some power and snap vs the gentler profile (that is only with enough spring pressure to insure proper valve control) what you gain is greater valve spring life and smoother quieter operation (less ticking) all else being equal.
One of my pet peeves is when I see a Cam specced for a NA application where the EXHAUST LIFT is greater than the Intake Lift.
According to Darrin Morgan one of the Top Cylinder Head Designers/Porters, the valve lift should be a % of the valve diameter, as this relates to curtain area for ideal/optimum Intake Port flow & velocity, and since the Intake Valves are significantly larger they should have greater lift.
I look at any performance NA cam with more exhaust lift VS Intake as FAIL. But that is just me.
Good friend of mine had the Titan 4 in a 5.7 11.7:1 compression with ported 243s, turbo 350, 2800 stall and 3.55:1 in a Fox Mustang
with a short runner sheet metal intake it RIPPED! and had excellent street manners, Your 4 speed, 4000 stall and 3.90s with
a FAST 92 would exceed that everywhere up to 6500+ RPM.
If you mill your heads slightly and adjust quench between .035-.040 with 11.0-11.5: comp (91-93 OCTANE)
you will have EXACTLY what you want.
My last .02
Good Luck
While this can trade off some power and snap vs the gentler profile (that is only with enough spring pressure to insure proper valve control) what you gain is greater valve spring life and smoother quieter operation (less ticking) all else being equal.
One of my pet peeves is when I see a Cam specced for a NA application where the EXHAUST LIFT is greater than the Intake Lift.
According to Darrin Morgan one of the Top Cylinder Head Designers/Porters, the valve lift should be a % of the valve diameter, as this relates to curtain area for ideal/optimum Intake Port flow & velocity, and since the Intake Valves are significantly larger they should have greater lift.
I look at any performance NA cam with more exhaust lift VS Intake as FAIL. But that is just me.
Good friend of mine had the Titan 4 in a 5.7 11.7:1 compression with ported 243s, turbo 350, 2800 stall and 3.55:1 in a Fox Mustang
with a short runner sheet metal intake it RIPPED! and had excellent street manners, Your 4 speed, 4000 stall and 3.90s with
a FAST 92 would exceed that everywhere up to 6500+ RPM.
If you mill your heads slightly and adjust quench between .035-.040 with 11.0-11.5: comp (91-93 OCTANE)
you will have EXACTLY what you want.
My last .02
Good Luck
Last edited by NAVYBLUE210; Jul 14, 2020 at 07:31 PM.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 3,392
Likes: 220
From: North Carolina
Makes sense. Thanks for the .02 👍🏼
Last point I will make on this thread is that the Cam Motion Cams have a smoother profile/acceleration rate VS the Comps,
While this can trade off some power and snap vs the gentler profile (that is only with enough spring pressure to insure proper valve control) what you gain is greater valve spring life and smoother quieter operation (less ticking) all else being equal.
One of my pet peeves is when I see a Cam specced for a NA application where the EXHAUST LIFT is greater than the Intake Lift.
According to Darrin Morgan one of the Top Cylinder Head Designers/Porters, the valve lift should be a % of the valve diameter, as this relates to curtain area for ideal/optimum Intake Port flow & velocity, and since the Intake Valves are significantly larger they should have greater lift.
I look at any performance NA cam with more exhaust lift VS Intake as FAIL. But that is just me.
Good friend of mine had the Titan 4 in a 5.7 11.7:1 compression with ported 243s, turbo 350, 2800 stall and 3.55:1 in a Fox Mustang
with a short runner sheet metal intake it RIPPED! and had excellent street manners, Your 4 speed, 4000 stall and 3.90s with
a FAST 92 would exceed that everywhere up to 6500+ RPM.
If you mill your heads slightly and adjust quench between .035-.040 with 11.0-11.5: comp (91-93 OCTANE)
you will have EXACTLY what you want.
My last .02
Good Luck
While this can trade off some power and snap vs the gentler profile (that is only with enough spring pressure to insure proper valve control) what you gain is greater valve spring life and smoother quieter operation (less ticking) all else being equal.
One of my pet peeves is when I see a Cam specced for a NA application where the EXHAUST LIFT is greater than the Intake Lift.
According to Darrin Morgan one of the Top Cylinder Head Designers/Porters, the valve lift should be a % of the valve diameter, as this relates to curtain area for ideal/optimum Intake Port flow & velocity, and since the Intake Valves are significantly larger they should have greater lift.
I look at any performance NA cam with more exhaust lift VS Intake as FAIL. But that is just me.
Good friend of mine had the Titan 4 in a 5.7 11.7:1 compression with ported 243s, turbo 350, 2800 stall and 3.55:1 in a Fox Mustang
with a short runner sheet metal intake it RIPPED! and had excellent street manners, Your 4 speed, 4000 stall and 3.90s with
a FAST 92 would exceed that everywhere up to 6500+ RPM.
If you mill your heads slightly and adjust quench between .035-.040 with 11.0-11.5: comp (91-93 OCTANE)
you will have EXACTLY what you want.
My last .02
Good Luck
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 3,392
Likes: 220
From: North Carolina
Thanks for the advice. I've seen first hand what over cammed cars run like. Got they *** busted by a smaller cam car and everyone was shocked 😂
Thanks again
Thanks again
Ya I'm not sure what's going on with that. Converter isnt even that radica . Anyways, I look at it like this, you want a weekend warrior, might drive it once or twice and probably wont roadtrip with it but maybe you want to be able to if you wanted. I'd build it to drive nice and make good power, you can always lower the idle to sound nastier at the parking lot and if you want to go fast, 1500 bucks will get you a nitrous kit and you will be much faster then a big cam car that drives like garbage on no nitrous. Its ALWAYS better to get a cam a bit too small then too big for a street car. You are also limited by the top end for peak power potential, play to its strengths. If it were me, I'd get the Titan 3 cam but the titan 4 will work great too, sacrifice a little down low for some more up top. Up to you. I wouldnt go bigger than that.
I drive a 233/241 on 112.5 with tfs 220 as casts and the drivability is great, just need to know how to tune it to get there and its a 6 speed. The power is unreal, car went 10.84 @ 125 with the stock ls6 topend and now it would embarrass that setup. Dont believe everything you read on the internet.
I drive a 233/241 on 112.5 with tfs 220 as casts and the drivability is great, just need to know how to tune it to get there and its a 6 speed. The power is unreal, car went 10.84 @ 125 with the stock ls6 topend and now it would embarrass that setup. Dont believe everything you read on the internet.
I suspect you're a far better driver...