"driveability" means something different to everyone

 

When the "drivability" is like stock how can you complain. Just like the rest of the "big" cam ls1s ive tuned they end up driving like stock. Said it before and ill say it again its all in the tuning. That is fact based not i read it on the internet so it must be true jargon.

 

Ok, not sure how much of the big cam syndrome you could tune out especially on our garbage PCMs, but that still doesnt mean this guys application warrants a big cam. A mid 220s cam is perfect for a weekend street car.

 

I agree and that's also where the total package comes into play (heads intake exh stall etc). Cam for what you got, not the highest hp number the cam itself can make.


My 2000 SS was not fast by any means, it was a bolt on only car, but it beat more cammed LS1 cars than it lost to, due to that I like to look at what most consider a medium sized cam. My car was full weight plus, heavy street wheels front and rear, bolt ons and and ran 1.6 60's and 7.6 in the 1/8th.

There were really well done cam cars that would run 7.3-4 or so in similar trim, faster if lighter. But plenty of bolt on and cammed cars that ran closer to 8.0 because they were over cammed and the total package was crap. In short, the cam alone is far from the answer and there's so many other areas to look at. I really don't think if you chose a 227 intake duration or a 232 that it will make or break your setup. But I do think the 227 will be a little more crispy since it will keep DCR up a little higher (speaking generally here yes I know this can be custom tailored, but I'm talking about these out of the box cams were are looking at in this thread), and peak tq closer to your stall speed and hit the converter a little bit harder. I am no means a guru here, just my opinion.

 

As you can see in my signature my last car wasn't anything special but it moved out for what it was. It would of ran better with a Yank converter and some more gear. The best I could get it to 60' was 1.56 with a FTI hard hit 4k. Zzracer done the ported 799s and it had a fast 92 setup and F14 standard lift cam.

 

Man 1.5x and 7.1-7.2's is moving out pretty good for a stock cube stock weight F body car. It doesn't get much better than that until you shed weight IMO.

Was that on street wheels or a drag setup?

And yeah the 3.42's probably weren't helping, unless you were crossing the beams at the top of second and avoiding the 3rd gear shift happening right before you cross. Then maybe they were. 7.1 is about as good as it gets for a cam head intake F body that I'm familiar with at stock weight. I'm not sure how much faster you'd be if you geared it since there would be another shift in there

 

I had weld rts 15s with a bias ply in the rear. Also tried the stock 17 10 spoke wheels with ET streets. Would 60 identical.
it was actually bored 20 over and 3450 was race weight

 

Would have been 7.0 -6.90 car with a converter like mine. That Fti was too tight! A 102 intake wouldn't have hurt it either.

 

True.....

 

This thread reminds me of Mavn. He did the Summit racing Stage 1 Ghost Cam which is really mild. He said that when he upgraded to the stage 2 cam (which is fairly mild) he got slower.

 

That's exactly what I want to avoid

 

What converter is that?

 

Stage 3 Polluter Cam is a good choice IMO.

 

PT4000 Yank

 

Does that PT4000 hit harder than the 4k you have listed in your sig? He said it would have helped your car go faster, curious as to why

 

I want to say his old car with similar power, 300lbs heavier would cut 1.4x 60' with the Yank stall.
PT4000 is strictly for NA cars
I want to say his current setup does 1.3x 60' but its about 500hp to the tire NA Ls2.

 

My best 60 to date is a 1.409 in good weather. I recently installed rear coilovers and went 1.41 in the heat. It should do 1.3? Now in good weather. The pt4000 is a looser converter which flashing higher than the converter he had .

 

I second this

 

His car would be a turd with that cam unless he bumps compression.