I fired up the Ws6 today and it started fine. I did the 2 cycle heat and cool then went out to like a 20 mile drive and would let it go up to 70 at one point and bring it down to 20 down shifting as I went to keep rpms healthy.

i then came back and changed the oil and I am now on the 500 mile break in stage.

I am currently going through 2 issues:

1. Car sometimes starts fine at first and others the Rpms are all over the place and I have to accelerate to keep it on. After about 20 seconds of the car being on it stays idling at 900-1000 rpm for as long as I let it. I have a feeling it might need the Tune ASAP, I’m lucky it still even turns on I’ve heard some only turn on once and never again until it’s tuned.

2. The battery gauge goes under 13 volts and at one point it died at a red light because it got to low. But lucky for me, it started right up after like 1 min of cussing lol.!I am currently running a 600 watt amp to the composition speakers and have the big three upgrade and just added the Hotwire kit to the fuel pump. I’m thinking of ordering a new High Output alternator, like a 160 amp one; would that be safe? Has any one had this issue after Hotwire install?

and definitely regretting the 6 pluck clutch right now, maybe after the tune it will get better.


Thank you and hope to hear about the issues soon.

 

Is the engine brand new? Whats the 500 mile break in for? Nothing takes 500 miles to break in. All LS engines leaving the factory get a few full throttle runs on a dyno before going into cars....that 100% breaks them in. Your engine seats its rings in minutes and to do it correctly requires full throttle high rpm runs. If you went for a 20 mile drive the engine is 100% finished being broken in....you now have what you will have for the life of the engine......REGARDING THE RINGS BEING SEATED, which is all that matters with a brand new engine. Hopefully your tune wasn't too rich or you could have gas washed the rings and you will need a rebuild to fix that if it did happen. Happened to me many years ago with an LS6 stroker engine.

Other two issues: Could be a bad voltage regulator. RPM's jumping around could also be a dirty MAF or an IAC valve acting up.

I wouldn't run the engine until its on a dyno getting tuned. Again though, after you drove it for 500 miles its 100% done getting broken in, there's no changing what the rings have done.

Now for thousands of miles after an engine is first started it will continue to shed metal....but these are microscopic to dust sized particles....perfectly normal. Thats why the oil pan bolt is magnetic, to catch all that small stuff.

 

Yes, I did a rebuild with forged pistons bigger cam and supporting upgrades. I’ve heard both ways work, I chose this method. I took the PVC hose off and had no oil mist. I’m guessing the rings sealed up.

ive had that happen to me as well but I already changed out the oil and it didn’t smell like gasoline and I’m keeping and eye on it.

yes that’s how it’s acting, might as well clean those sensors out. Last time I built it it was acting the same until it was tuned. But this time it dies when I try to run it normal, I have to rev it a bit more so it won’t die.

Do you know if it’s safe to add a 160 amp alternator?

 

Noting wrong with a more powerful alt.....the larger you go the less long they last.....but some people have no issues for a long time Its high rpms that kill the more powerful alternators.

You shouldn't need a larger alternator. I have a factory amp and its not affected at all with all lights on, A/C on high, and a 1000 watt amp and 12" woofer turned way up.

Have your alt checked....voltage reg could be going on you.