So, should I run a known decent tune in open loop, or run the possibly compromised one I have in it now?

 

Also, I just now realized, I don't think I've ever run in open loop when tuning, has that likely caused me to be chasing my tail this whole time??

 

A bad MAF can do some wacky things.

 

Yeah I figured so, that's why I decided to throw my speed density tune back in to eliminate or confirm that possibility, it didn't change anything

 

Cylinder 8 seems to be totally dead. I used my tech 2 to disable all injectors one by one, and noticed absolutely no difference in the way it ran when I got to cylinder 8. I can't believe it hadn't thrown a code with that being the case. Hopefully I can find the receipt for those o2 sensors to offset the cost of a new injector/coil pack. Still not sure which it is, but I'm making progress, and that would explain the vastly different bank to bank stft readings, meaning my o2s are likely still good

 

You probably want to test the injector, or at least throw a stethoscope on it to see if you can hear that firing.

 

Very often on cammed tunes the misfire tables are cranked so you don't get nuisance misfire codes. Possibly why you never got any.

Edit -- corrected "canned" to "cammed"

 

So to update everyone, I think I got it narrowed down to a failing coil. I realized that it ran fine when it was cold, but once it got hot, that's when the issues started. I listened to the injector, and it seemed to be working fine, so I bought a new coil, installed it, and took it on a drive today and all seemed fine. It was only a short drive, but long enough that it would've had issues before. As for the misfire tables being cranked, I started this tune from a stock file and haven't touched the misfire tables, but I do only have one knock sensor hooked up and I disabled the code it was throwing, I'm not sure if only having one sensor would disable the knock detection altogether though
-Edited because part of the post was a repeat.