Obviously I will need a tune for the cam. But until I get the converter and trans to handle power. It will be a conservative standard tune.

Once I get the new converter and transmission I’ll retune it aimed for power.

And see if that’s the issue or con, I have no issue if it’s just a powerband issue. Again this is temporary until I can source a good 4L80 and recoup some funds for the new converter for it.

And ok thanks, I will look again.

 

I already did...To the above question, no and yes...Ray Charles can see you have your mind made up, so I don't really see what else there is to discuss...

 

Also another question, if performance is not an issue, why are you even swapping to a 4l80e?

 

Why not? Why not over build my investment. Why not opt for the better so if I do decide to turbo this as I do with almost all of my builds have that added securety.

I don’t see any real reason not to. Especially since depending on how my 5.3 acts with this cam, most reports put this cam around max reliable rating for this trans.

Especially when I’ve seen a few guys explode 60’s with stock power.

 

I know a few guys that have done it. Granted it was a fairly mild cam in the -1.5 overlap range and they didnt have any problems. They werent gonna shake houses off their foundation with lope or help them become a dyno queen and spin to 7200+. But, it was enough for a nice HP jump and definite kick in the pants without swapping converters.

 

I agree completely with everything you said... lol
but you first stated that you didnt care about performance and if its not broke dont fix it....... and now your talking turbo... LOL
WHAT?????

 

I'd help you but you're all over the place.

You want a noise maker cam not the highest horsepower because "not everyone needs 700 horsepower" but you want to go turbo.



Here's the truth. Noise maker cams require lots of overlap, they are hard to tune and idle poorly. They need the idle speed turned up to compensate for all of that. That ends up being horrible with a stock stall because it pulls through the brakes. It also causes it to be really sluggish off idle and make quite a bit less power until around 3k or so in a lot of cases (not all with the right cam) so you'll end up being a lot slower than with the stock cam, will barely be able to stop because you have such little vacuum at idle and now a high idle speed with a stock stall, holding the vehicle still at a stop light will suck because you'll constantly be slapping it in neutral to keep it from stalling and pulling through the brakes and just being a fight to deal with.

I didn't see a single person flame you either.

Also a 4L60 can handle a decent amount of power in a small light vehicle, so you don't have to swap it right away. The trailblazer converter could get you by.

If you don't want to "be the fastest and have 700 hp" and want a fun truck, skip the cam and do a 3800 stall. It'll be a ******* blast. Or do the cam and stall.

Lastly, you keep mentioning stalls as low as a few hundred dollars as high as 500. Stalls in that price range aren't usually that good. If you want a quality stall they are closer to 700-800 usually or more.

You said you don't want to make a lot of power but you want to build it right. If you want to build it right buy a good stall.

 

I’m all over the place because people keep taking my words and running with it.

people ask why I wanted a 4L80... I answered. But now all everyone can focus on is the fact I mentioned the slight tiny possibility to be open to turbos or focus on power in a few years.... But now that’s all the focus is on. But ignore the fact that’s clearly after the proper trans and other things get handled and dealt with

Then once we get back on track to stall issues my “if it’s not broke don’t fix it” becomes the topic focus again.

Im literally just asking pros and cons which you answered. But then everyone else starts side questions and conversations. Which I answer, but then I’m told IM all over the place lol

And building it right is not my issue. Wasting $400 to $1,000 on a converter I may only drive for a couple months is my issue if it’s not completely necessary.

Especially when I’ll have to turn around and spend ANOTHER $1,000 + trans.

I know you guys know exactly what I’m asking here, we’re all trying to get by but spend the least amount possible to get the best result and only buy what is necessary to support our goal and cut corners where necessary. Especially if it’s a short term solution, not a permanent one.

Especially looking at half your builds, aren’t any different than mine. Welding diffs, skipping paint jobs, using old brakes, old hoses but work. Soldering wires instead of buying full harnesses but if it works it works. It’s why we’re on the forum and in our garages and not paying shops 10’amof thousands of $$$ to build our cars the textbook way.

It seriously can’t be this hard to understand what I’m trying to do.

 

I have the solution and it's only $35 !

Years ago (true story) when my "cool" lowered truck had the little 4.3 six cylinder...
I bought the SoundRacer and OMG I felt just like Cale Yarborough when driving



My trucks first start (untuned) with the SoundRacer!

 

Big cam and stock converter : Headaches

Idle will be a huge pain. You can only turn up the idle so far with a stock converter, unless you love pushing hard on the brakes at every light.
Deceleration will lead to stalls as it bogs the drivetrain down.
Been there, done that. Just sharing first hand experience.

 

Whats the stall cut off then for stock limit before it becomes an issue? Maybe I’ll look at a stage 3 than a stage 4. Recommends a smaller converter.

 

In my experience even a 700 rpm or so idle with a stock 4l60 converter is really annoying. The 4L60's I've owned with stock converters stalled right around 1200, full stall. A cam for sound will be the worst cam possible for a converter like that. So plan on it being really annoying.

You can do what you're trying to do. And I understand it. Go for it man, deal with **** as it comes and when you have the time and money to do it.

 

You guys are cracking me up LOL

 

It's possible we jumped the gun a little. Never asked, what exact cam are you considering?

 

Summit Stage 4 truck cam

SUM-8714-1

Because I’m sure it will be asked. the motor is a 2007 L59 5.3L with flex fuel injectors 9:5:1 comp and 862 heads.

 

How about the Summit 8720 (unless you prefer low-lift)? Tell your tuner to jack with idle timing to give it a bit more lope.

 

And all of this is exactly why I bowed out earlier. Not that I'm any kind of "expert", or really even that I would have had all that much to offer; but one can usually tell right away if somebody comes in here with a question and is ready and willing to LISTEN to what others have to say, or if they're just a poseur, or they're somebody that doesn't have a clue and just wants to hear the sound of their own voice running off at the mouth, or what. I feel like I figured it out right quick and I haven't seen anything else come along that has changed my mind.

 

Whats a little ironic is that I have a friend that is doing the EXACT same swap right now. And he is also gonna try that cam with the stock converter until he gets his stall....

 

Tell him hurry up and finish and let me know how it works out haha

 

That the stage 2 or 3?

After this thread I am thinking of maybe toning down the cam a bit. Give me some more wiggle room. Summits rep told me the 3 should have some good lope but not be as aggressive as the 4. Both in lift and overlap.