Says its their Stage 2.

 

In my opinion that's way too much cam for:

A 5.3
A stock stall
9.5:1 compression
Good driveability in a 5.3
A heavy vehicle
Best overall performance from a 5.3 even with a stall unless you're doing around a 4400 stall, 4.xx:1 gears, and revving it to 7500 or so and going with a short runner intake in a light weight drag car


You don't need near that much cam to cut up at idle, and I can guarantee you you can get and idle lope and a hell of a lot better performance from a smaller cam. I used to pull cammed cars all the time with my stock long block, stock cam, full weight SS.

 

FAR better choice, should lope fine, and lope at idle can be manipulated in the tune for more or less. Still gonna be a bit much for the stock stall.

 

I'm on my 3rd camshaft in two years. When you upgrade one performance part it can have a compatibility (domino) effect on already installed parts. It's hard to nail down a power goal because we keep moving the goal posts wanting more power. If there is a silver lining the used parts have a market value or can be used in another project. Building a project "piecemeal" has always changed mid stream costing me more time & money YMMV

Set the Idle Adaptive Spark "Overspeed" to -13 across the table then match the "Underspeed" +13 across the table and it will sound off with a little cam. Idling It's hard to hit the touch screens correct radio buttons with the back & forth rocking motion. It's cool at first then gets old pretty fast.

 

If that’s not the truth idk what is. When I built my Z I was happy with the stock 270hp... Went turbo and was happy with my 350ish... Got use to it went up to 400... Now I’m at 460whp... And now I want to go for 500 or 600whp but can’t due to stock block limitations.

i still remember when 400hp scared me. Now my 460 feels like stock power I had when I first got the car lol



Yea that sounds a bit excessive. The first cams I wanted had around 10 or 12 degree of overlap. Which is why I settled on the 4... Which is supposed to be a pretty “mild” lope. Even more if I go to the stage 3 now with the 3 degree overlap.

Thats another reason I kind of think some guys opinions are off a little. A standard LS lope cam is around 8 to 18 degrees of over lap which = tons of lope. 3x the amount of overlap as the cam in looking at.

Truck cams max at 4 degrees of overlap. No where near the performance car cams offer. So I doubt the lope and struggle with be nearly as bad. Which I think some guys are assuming I’m going for. Truck stage 4’s are similar to car stage 1’s with lope and overlap.

 

On my LQ9 build I started with a Sloppy Stage II 228/230 .585" .585" 112+2 with 5* overlap. It was a very good all around camshaft easy to tune and with a 3200 stall & 4.10's it filled the slight bottom end loss very well... wish I would have stayed with the SS2.

The second cam was a Cam Motion "little chopper" 222/232 .595" .587" 108+3 with 11* overlap. It gave me a slight more bottom end but with a sacrifice up top. The little chopper lived up to it's name and chopped nicely... but for the $400+ gaskets... should have stayed with the SS2.

Now I'm running a TSP v4 Torquer 231/234 .629" .615" 111+2 with 10.5* overlap. Why swap out a 3 month old cam most would ask? Upgraded to a set of PRC 225 heads and with the 62cc chambers. The "little choppers" Intake valve closing at 36* the dynamic compression would be to high in the high nines.

I was able to sell the chopper for $200 along with the two year old PAC 1218 springs. That helped ease the pain of purchasing the TSP cam that was on sale during their "Covid -19 Stimulus Sale" for $300

 

If you want chop what about the TSP 212/218 on a 111 or 112 and just have the tuner set the idle over and under speed spark tables to something like 10 and -10. It should chop pretty good and not give up any down low. Just an option

 

So I’ve got a question for you, beehive blue springs? Or PAC 1218 or 1518 springs?

Which did you use? Part of me wants to over buy and get 1518’s for extra securety. But also get blue cause I’m cheap and “broke” not really but I’d rather put that money else where and just run the blue which supposedly can handle the cams I’m looking at.

 

I’ll probably be the one base tuning it. So I’ll remember that. Might run the Stage 3 instead and maybe just screw with the lope in the tune.

BUT, I don’t see how that would fix anything from running the Stage 4. Cause if you add lope via tune shouldn’t that have the same idle issue as the cam overlap giving lope...?

Just trying to understand the workings of converters. First auto car I’ve ever built, and I mostly just say these are fluid boxes with magic inside and kept it at that haha

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/GM55-4L65E-...QAAOSwy7lc7~pu

behind a 5.3 it should be a little looser and stall in the mid 2000rpm's

When you pull the trans you could easily get at least $100 back if not the full ammount

 

What about this one? For a higher stall @ 2500 and only $15 more.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/GM55S-2200-....c100935.m2460

I could live with losing $150 on a stall. Can’t live with $600+ for a temp one.

 

You're also looking at 5.3 cams vs 5.7 or larger cams. The larger motors can tolerate the overlap more.

 

With the SS2 and the Chopper camshaft I used the PAC 1218 springs. With the Choppers .595" lift I was just inside the 1218's .600 spec. The new PRC heads came with the .660" dual springs.

If your cam lift specs are withing the blue springs specs no need in spending more for springs. Using more spring pressure than necessary robs horsepower and can cause unnecessary valvetrain fatigue and wear. When you start getting into higher lift a quality spring is more important especially choosing a single beehive. A dual spring setup adds weight but you have that (small) safety factor with the inner spring. The ultimate single beehives are PSI springs but their cost are on par with a quality dual setup with titanium retainers.

 

I’m not familiar with the stage 3 or 4 from summit but I did tune a 2011 or so 5.3 truck with bolt ons and a 218/227 on the stock converter once and it sucked. Pulled through the brakes and occasionally stalled. It wasn’t as lazy down low as I thought it would be but it was to much cam for that truck. And the idle over and under speed is just swinging ignition timing up and down making the natural lope of the cam seem more radical. If you drop 25 rpm under target it throws 10 in if your high 25 it pulls it out basically the timing is chasing the lope. You couldn’t make a stock cam lope that way.

 

I dont see a link but its probably the same converter. Either one will be well worth the little bit of extra money up front.