LQ4 550 Horsepower recipe wanted
#21
Moderator
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: My own internal universe
Posts: 10,452
Received 1,853 Likes
on
1,152 Posts
mamo 220 heads milled to 11.5 compression
Both fast 102 and msd cleared 500 on this build
237/245 solid roller cam - I do think if I ran a hydraulic 235/241 cam it would have cleared 500 also with the right lifters (johnson 2126 or equivalent)
electric water pump
vacuum pump
crank scraper
1-7/8 headers
dual 3" exhaust
light clutch
Plus all the supporting odds and ends and a massive amount of time setting up the valvetrain
On a 6.0, it's a little bit easier, because you have bore. I would start with a top shelf aftermarket head in the 235 cc range, get your compression up to 11.5 minimum, do all the mods you can to reduce power losses (EWP, VP, scraper, etc), rem polish your rear gears, light clutch - as in RPS street twin or lighter, cam in the high 230's, depending on what rpm you intend to make peak power - and you should be planning on 6700 or higher with a 7600 or higher shift point - fast 102 or msd intake. Not many other options for cathedrals. Exhaust, you can do 1-7/8 headers, run extensions and dump, or if you want full exhaust, you'll need dual 3" pipes. The X pipe makes a difference - helps support higher rpm peaks.
Either way, make no mistake, 500 rwhp out of a 6.0 is easier than a 346, but still a far cry from "easy". You'll have to pay a lot of attention to a lot of things, and as soon as you start balking at the price tag on parts, you're sacrificing power. Examples are "wow those lifters are $$$, how about I just run ls7 lifters", "Wow I can get 5/16 pushrods for half that price, I'll just do that", etc. After you've added up the costs, you might decide:
1. wow, I can just run a 22x street cam and spray it way cheaper. Yes you can. Many do. Drives better when you don't need full power, and all the chemical torque you need when you need it.
2. wow, for that much money I could drop a blower/procharger/turbo kit on it. yes you can. many do. and make far more power than the NA guys do.
I hope that helps. I'm truly not trying to burst your bubble. I'm hoping to help you realize what you're in for so that you don't find yourself way over budget and/or in over your head and then abandoning both the project and the hobby. Best of luck.
The following 3 users liked this post by Darth_V8r:
#22
Thanks Darth. Fantastic info.
OP, there's your recipe. Budget has been mentioned many times. How serious are you? The answer will be in the $$$ amount.
OP, there's your recipe. Budget has been mentioned many times. How serious are you? The answer will be in the $$$ amount.
The following users liked this post:
Ls7colorado (09-18-2020)
#23
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (40)
I will say there are kinda two things going on here.
A goal to hit 10's and a goal to make 550 at the tire.
You can hit 10's a lot cheaper than you can make 550 to the tire in your situation
You should be able to hit upper 10's with around 420 ish to the tire through a converter, really subjective here
Here's what I would do for a low cost setup that should get you upper 10's or fairly close. My cousins SS used to run 11.0-11.2 consistently weighing 3400 with a 5.7, cam heads and fast 90 and making 430 with a 6 speed and decent suspension, nothing too fancy but not stock. You have less weight and an auto.
Budget N/A build with what you got
Bore the block to 4.065
Stock LS3 pistons (preferably aftermarket domes to get it closer to 12:1 you're gonna be closer to 11:1 with flat tops
Mill heads 30 thousandths down to around 66 cc (more if you can but I think you'll possibly run into intake manifold fitment issues or valve clearance issues if you go much more)
.040 or .045 headgasket
That'll get you 11.3-11.5:1
4000 stall at least
somewhere around a intake 235-240 exhaust 245-255 620/620 113 cam
Spin it to 7000-7500
Should make a good 550 at the crank, maybe 580
What you get to the tire will really depend on the converter, wheels and tires etc so focus on 10's more than 550 at the tire.
A goal to hit 10's and a goal to make 550 at the tire.
You can hit 10's a lot cheaper than you can make 550 to the tire in your situation
You should be able to hit upper 10's with around 420 ish to the tire through a converter, really subjective here
Here's what I would do for a low cost setup that should get you upper 10's or fairly close. My cousins SS used to run 11.0-11.2 consistently weighing 3400 with a 5.7, cam heads and fast 90 and making 430 with a 6 speed and decent suspension, nothing too fancy but not stock. You have less weight and an auto.
Budget N/A build with what you got
Bore the block to 4.065
Stock LS3 pistons (preferably aftermarket domes to get it closer to 12:1 you're gonna be closer to 11:1 with flat tops
Mill heads 30 thousandths down to around 66 cc (more if you can but I think you'll possibly run into intake manifold fitment issues or valve clearance issues if you go much more)
.040 or .045 headgasket
That'll get you 11.3-11.5:1
4000 stall at least
somewhere around a intake 235-240 exhaust 245-255 620/620 113 cam
Spin it to 7000-7500
Should make a good 550 at the crank, maybe 580
What you get to the tire will really depend on the converter, wheels and tires etc so focus on 10's more than 550 at the tire.
Last edited by 00pooterSS; 09-18-2020 at 04:39 PM.
#24
Staging Lane
Go on YouTube and look up Richard Holdener. Look up how to maximize your 6.0 LS. Watch his videos and you will find your answer. I'm looking to do a similar street build. LQ4 with a LS3 top end package, which is what is call a LY6 engine. Looking to put in a sloppy stage 2 cam, for good overall performance.
The following users liked this post:
G Atsma (09-19-2020)