I know this has been discussed a million times, but i want a little more insight.

Engine – SBE Gen 3 Lq4
LS6 Intake
Engine Internals – Comp cam, Comp valve springs, Brian Tooley Racing hardened pushrods, Melling HPHV oil pump
Turbo – Billet 78/75
Trans – T56
Fuel system – 3 pumps (Walbro 450 and 2 Bosch 044’s), 2L surge tank, and -8an lines with filter
Injectors – Siemen deka 80’s

its at 500hp, 11psi, 13*, 47% IDC

i got metallic in the oil so it needs rebuilt, its not knocking yet, but i have next to no oil pressure after a few good pulls in it. So its a perfect candidate to be built.

what rods and pistons would you recommend if you were given a ~$1400 budget.

i was looking on texas speed’s website and they have some good combo’s, BUT, i dont know which ones to approach... for example, a small dished piston i.e. -6cc or a larger dished piston (-25cc); or hell, even flat tops since its forged.
Also i have hear things about some of these big rod manufacturers being made in china?

so i dont really know which direction to go right now.

realistically, i want to make 800wheel with the car; anything more would be GREAT!

 

You may want to consider our Summit Pro LS forged 2618 pistons and rods. We have a 12cc version part number SUM-299927400512 (.005 hone and other sizes available). We also make a 2cc FT SUM-2999274005-2 (.005 over and others available as well). The pistons are rated at 1000whp with standard pins and go much further with our tool-steels. ARP 2000 bolt H-beam Rods are rated 1200whp with turbo. $499 pistons, $499 rods. Steel top 1.2mm rings just a bit over $100. We have everything else you need to get it back together as well. Just let us know and we're happy to help.

 

How is the balance of each component out of the box?

 

Very close. If you check out my build thread in my sig, you can get more info on that. The rods and pistons are quality units. I'd be willing to bet they are wiseco pistons. I compared them and they are identical except for one groove machined in the top ring land. Casting marks and letters in the casting are the same.

 

Usually it's a drill job. Meaning the crank is set up for an 1800g bobweight. The bigger diameter a piston gets and the deeper a dish gets the more it weighs. A 4.070 or 4.125 bore turbo dish piston is at that end of the range and there is a chance the machinist is going to need to put metal in it...which adds cost. We don't get a lot of reports of that, but want to make everyone aware of what to expect and why.

 

I could have put mine together without balancing it. It was so close, my machinist barely touched a drill bit in a couple spots. It would have flew like that

 

I read through ALOT of your engine thread.
when i saw the metal shavings in the engine, my heart fell for you because you did everything perfect.

i honestly didnt think there was that amount of bottom end work/math needed, but you gave me a tremendous insight to do it right. i really appreciate that.

as for summits piston, they are by far the best deal and so far have good reviews..... isnt matt happel doing a current build with them?

summit, is there a combo with everything needed? Rods, pistons, rings, and the good wrist pins? Or will everything need to be purchased separately?

 

Yes, Matt Happel is running them in a build as is LS1tech's very own Mavn. Lots of people at surprisingly high levels really that just know a good part when they see it. We have kits that knock a few bucks off the individual prices. Let us know the bore you would like to go with and the flat top or the dish. We recommend the dish because you can always add boost and timing, but it's hard to take it away when it's knock limited. Thank you for your patronage.

 

of course I get left out.....I have summit cam, rods and pistons.

 

Sorry about that kfxguy. We know you're using the Ghost cam plus our rods and pistons. We appreciate you giving the OP first-hand info on the quality of our Pro LS rods and pistons.

 

No worries man...I was just messin with ya....

 

yea I try to do things right, and being a major do it yourselfer, i'll get myself into trouble sometimes trying to save money. Like with the oil pump. It was working fine till i took it apart and ported it....Didnt realize the pressure release valve could get jammed because it wasnt placed back into its original orientation. And then i cheaped out on intake valves. I tuliped one a couple weeks ago..


MOREL OF THE STORY:

Dont be a CHEAPASS like me. Spend it now OR MORE LATER. I should take my own advice....I guess I'm a glutton for punishment.

 

Would it be OK to ask what valves you went with...???

(Maybe PM me if there's a chance on hurting someones feelings??)

 

He used the cheap Qual Cast ones on Ebay and paid the price...

Not sure what he is replacing them with.

 

yes. That’s what I used. $58. They held up to 20psi but once I got to 24psi, they couldn’t take the heat. O well, at least now I know. The replaced them with ferrea.

so really it only cost me a set of $80 ls9 head gaskets and a set of $58 valves. Either way I ended up having to spend the $$ for ferrea. Live and learn.