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Old Mar 5, 2021 | 11:29 AM
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Default LS1 timing chain damper

I'm putting my LS1 back together right now and my block did not have the holes for the damper. I found someone making this style again online so I will be installing that this weekend. My question for those who have drilled and tapped their blocks is did you drill the block completely or should these be blind holes? I've read every post I could find on this but no one ever stated whether they were through holes or not.
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Old Mar 5, 2021 | 11:37 AM
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They are through holes. The metal is only around ½ to ¾" thick right there, or at least, that's what it was in mine (LQ9). Aluminum blocks might be a bit different but I doubt it.
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Old Mar 5, 2021 | 01:05 PM
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ICT makes a drill fixture that drills for the LS2 damper.
I just did my LS1 block.
$39 from Amazon. Comes with tap and drill bit.
LS2 damper is like $15

Worked perfect. Alum block are also drilled all the way through.

Probably a push on price vs the LS1 damper.
But it’s another option.
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Old Mar 5, 2021 | 01:16 PM
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Originally Posted by RonSSNova
ICT makes a drill fixture that drills for the LS2 damper.
I just did my LS1 block.
$39 from Amazon. Comes with tap and drill bit.
LS2 damper is like $15

Worked perfect. Alum block are also drilled all the way through.

Probably a push on price vs the LS1 damper.
But it’s another option.
That's interesting, guess I should have posted here earlier. I actually bought the LS2 thinking I would make it work and then returned it because I just didn't like where the hole location would wind up. I would have been a little more confident with the fixture but I found the LS1 style for $40 so I went with it.
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Old Mar 5, 2021 | 03:20 PM
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This is how it ended up.




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Old Mar 5, 2021 | 04:35 PM
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Mine came out looking just about exactly like Ron's. Except that his isn't tapped yet. I just put the LS2 piece (wasn't a stock one but I forget where I got it) where it needed to be, marked the holes with a punch, and went to town with a hand drill. Piece o cake and works beautifully. That kit does look kinda slick though, definitely reduces the chances for error.
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Old Mar 5, 2021 | 04:50 PM
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Originally Posted by RB04Av
Mine came out looking just about exactly like Ron's. Except that his isn't tapped yet. I just put the LS2 piece (wasn't a stock one but I forget where I got it) where it needed to be, marked the holes with a punch, and went to town with a hand drill. Piece o cake and works beautifully. That kit does look kinda slick though, definitely reduces the chances for error.
That's what I had planned til I saw the spacing. Was still thinking about doing it til I stumbled on the one that would sit right with the bosses for $40. The tool would definitely take the guess work out.
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Old Mar 6, 2021 | 12:47 AM
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It doesn’t fit the bosses very well. Which is why it wasn’t tapped yet. I made a tap guide to ensure the tap started correctly.

Fellow forum member LS Chevy II gave me the fixture. So it’s all his fault! 😊
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Old Mar 6, 2021 | 02:10 AM
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Originally Posted by RonSSNova
It doesn’t fit the bosses very well. Which is why it wasn’t tapped yet. I made a tap guide to ensure the tap started correctly.

Fellow forum member LS Chevy II gave me the fixture. So it’s all his fault! 😊
If he gave you the fixture he probably gave you the bit and the tap.

The ICT Billet Drill fixture does not come with a bit or a tap. I have purchased 2 of them so far.
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Old Mar 6, 2021 | 09:48 AM
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From the above photo, 2 bits two taps. Looks like it will drill for the LS3 type damper?

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Old Mar 6, 2021 | 02:19 PM
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Didn't turn out too bad, could have moved a little more to passenger side but it's pretty tough to get perfect. If I had to do it again I'd rather do it with a bare block and the fixture.
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