This is the comp cams NSR drift cam 233 243 114 LS, does anyone know How much advance it has ground in if any? I can't seem to find the intake center line anywhere

More researching the low shock technology looks pretty awesome Maybe they don't advertise it? Anyways I ordered one for my build I can't wait to see how it does

 

it's on a 109 icl so +5 degrees

 

I have the cam card but the timing numbers advertised and at 0.050 don't really match up with my valve events calculator? Must be these wild looking lobes 😈 I guess it doesn't really matter because I'm a lazy idiot anyway and I'm just going to stab it in my junkyard 06' Cadillac LQ9 with a new LS2 chain, BTR hat seals, summit racing LS6 springs and some harder longer push rods so it can rev as high as it wants to!

 

Cool! What are you hoping to run at the track?

 

I bracket race and so I just need to run consistently I suppose if the car is too fast for the number I need it to run I will fill the trunk with smaller camshafts until the car is heavy enough and slow enough

 

Or you could just re-index....

 

I'm interested in the results and the decision making that got you to choosing that cam. I bracket race both of my cars, one is strictly bracket raced, and I only have a z06 cam in that car - it's not about how fast for me as I'm sure the same goes for you if you bracket race.

 

My decision speaks for itself!

 

I'd have to agree!

 

Have you made any passes with it yet?

 

I hope to run it soon, the air density is nearly sea level at my dragstrip right now!

 

This new engine and cam combo is very very powerful with 4.10 gears compared to my old 5.7 LS1 with a 226/230 112 LSA cam and 3.73 gears. I basically replaced the long block and the rear end everything, but the transmission as it had been in great working condition before with a TCI 3600 converter had made hundreds of passes with it in sportsman class going high 11s. I had trouble with the trans while I was breaking in the rear end driving it around and when I went to the track on my first run it shifted in a second and then it shifted up through the gears very quickly popping off the pressure control switch circuit plug. The trans was pissed off and limp mode I managed one full pass trying to manually shift the broken trans bouncing it off the rev limiter and the car went 11.94 at 114, with a 1.64 60 ft time. After that the trans was slipping so bad I had to let the car cool in the parking lot so it would even move even then I barely made it a few miles from the track and I had to have it towed home lol

 

Damn that's rough! I hope it gets back together without much issue.

 

No no worries I called TCI yesterday and they said they would rebuild my converter for $200 or so if I just mail it to them so that's a pretty good deal I just need to get with my trans guy about my 4L60e, I think I just burned a few bands in it so it's not the end of the world

 

I finally Got it all back together with more tuning from my very patient friend, I was having some terrible headaches with my car doing the quick one to four shift from a dig limp mode ugh, I have what I thought were bad TPS sensors ( not every sensor bounces around 0.0-0.4 some have return springs in them some don't some work when the springs are broken and some don't but it's okay I'm not crazy and I'm not switching to a drive by wire I just refuse to recognize that p0121 code in my PCM anymore lol) and so in trying to tune around them I ended up drilling the throttle body and wow I'm glad I did It's really silly to make your IAC work so hard, it was instantly a lot more consistent getting restarted even before retouching the tune and it idles much smoother at the same 950 rpm and drives awesome. Then I ran into an oil leak (More like a gush) and had to fix that, and my transmission servo gave me more headaches so I put a couple washers in there and it's shifting good again. So we should see where it runs here soon

 

Comp 777 drift cam cam card

This has been bugging me ever since I installed it in my LQ9 last year.

Look at the valve events @ 0.006

Can someone help me make sense of the valve events on this cam card? I understand the lobes are asymmetrical but when I put the advertised open and close #'s @ 0.006 on the cam card in a camshaft calculator It appears to be a reverse split.

Im getting this...

304 int./288 ext. @0.006 with 112 lobe separation and -2 degrees retard.

This just does not match up with the other duration numbers given on the card or am I missing something?



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I agree that if you look at the open/close events, it looks like 304/288 @.006”.

I’m guessing the events given are wrong. The 294/304 duration at .006” makes sense given the 233/243 numbers at .050”

Call them … nobody on the forum will be able to explain it. I can confirm your math, but I have no clue what’s going on.

 

I wish I had bothered to look at the lobes on this cam more closely before I installed it. Obviously I didn't think to degree it either and really verify what was going with "LST" (low shock technology) because it's advertised as a "NSR" (no springs required) stab and go type of cam though I still did the chain, springs, and hardened pushrods anyway.

I guess I'm the only person who's ever posted a cam card on here before that doesn't make any sense?

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It's funny I just thought I would sound like an *** if I called comp to ask about because it runs so well so I thought I'd ask here first

 

My guess ...sounds like something to do with asymmetrical cam lobes


If illustration gives hint why numbers could look funny in camshaft calculator?

Please share with us what you learn.

 

I called the comp cams tech line listed on the cam card yesterday morning and I'm so glad I called.
There were 8 or 9 callers ahead of me I was probably on hold for an hour. I expected the tech person to answer the phone unfriendly and annoyed dealing with everyone else's valve train BS however a calm and friendly sounding man answered the phone and patiently waited for me to explain why I had called. I simply told him I did not understand the valve events on my cam card that they didn't match up with what I expected to see on a camshaft calculator.


​​​He looked up the serial number for my cam and then said oh drift cam, I helped design that one!

I was floored.

He said the cam card was spot on and that if I were to degree it that The advertised duration numbers would be accurate as there is very little going on at .006 on the exhaust side especially with the new spintron optimized low shock lobes.

What's insane is that the @ 0.050 #s are still what the engine sees when it is running due to the optimized harmonics.

Blackbird,
Your illustration is correct and describing the asymmetrical lobe.

The man from comp went on to explain how the intake and exhaust lobes were differently shaped due to the different needs of the intake and exhaust though I am not smart enough to interpret his explanation it makes more sense now why it looks like a reverse split though it really is not