Hi all. Anyone got any info or advice between the FTI Streetsweeper (236*-240*-111*-.631"-.610") and the TSP Tsunami (235/240, .629"/.615", 111 LSA).

I'm leaning more towards the Streetsweeper as from what i have seen on dyno printouts, the cam pulls hard all the way to 6500 and then flattens out to 7000. Car is running an A4 and will be running a 4k stall.

Any advice, good or bad, is appreciated.

Cheers

Lee

 

Both are similar so it’s a toss up. A lot of great running cars ram either cam. I know the street sweeper probably has some good track numbers. IMO I would go with that. Buddy of mine has the tsunami and runs well, but doesn’t track it very often.

 

Can you tell us a bit more about the intake, exhaust, throttle body and what you are doing with it? SUM-8709R1 is a phenomenal running cam that works without flycutting. If you have milled the heads .030 (worth it) you can back down to the SUM-8711R1 cam. This is based on your 4k converter...it doesn't sound like you are playing around but these cams will compliment that.

 

LS6 intake, will be a custom exhaust and headers as it's going into a non gm vehicle.(Valiant) and a 90mm polished throttle body. Also getting the 241 heads ported and will be running Howard billet 1.7 rollers

 

I run the streetsweeper cam, Dyno numbers were 410/375 threw a six speed with a S60 rear. At the track it trapped 120-122mph at 3600lbs. Now its got TFS heads on it and made 488/417

 

Are you modifying the front of the intake to accommodate the 90? If you can start with a set of smaller chamber heads and then mill, that would be a plus. Compression will help everywhere top to bottom. We’d recommend sticking with trunnion kitted stock rockers as they are the lightest at the valve and will help extend rpm at the top. If you mill a 65cc head to 60 with a .030 mill, the Sum-8710r1 is about the biggest cam without flycutting. Lastly, the porting of the factory heads by TEA and a couple others is fantastic and we’d recommend using a 2.040 cut down Ls3 hollow stem intake valve to increase the revs. The intake is holding it back a bit at that point, but the engine will enjoy turning 7k plus with a good dual spring pack like the tfs-2500286p and then a 11/32 .120 wall Sum-14917400 or sum-14917425 pushrod will get you close depending on whether you mill the heads or not. There is a lot to unpack here but you’ll be happy with the performance per dollar.

 

@Summitracing Thanks for the reply, I appreciate the advice.

Cheers

Lee

 

@Shadow02SS when you made the 410, what other mods did you have done? I also assume that was at the wheels?

 

Id go with 243s as they're worth about 20hp over stock 241s, and a hair more compression.

Id love to see a pic of the Valiant. I used to have a 69 and miss it. If you dont, text me a pic(s) please.

Rob (956) 802 7700

 

I can't pm you for some reason but I'll attach a pic. It's an Australian 1965 Ap5

 

Hey, fellow Aussie. I cant help you with the cam question as I use small cams but in case you didnt know, there is usually a 10-15% variation with dyno results between the USA and AUS. So, if you end up with lower dyno readings, don't let it worry you. Best of luck with the mods.

 

I ran a unported 92 fast and 1 7/8 headers and it was threw a dana s60 rear with 4.10s

 

Hey, yeah the variation is ok because I'm basing 1/4 mile times on their dyno numbers. Even if mine is 15% lower then 1/4 mile times should be very very close.

Cheers

Lee

 

Definitely, track times is a better way to compare but the dyno quotes can still form a guide if you don't get caught up expecting them to be identical. Some people I've seen get upset over the dyno differences between the countries. Cheers

 

Agree. Im hoping to run low 11's, maybe high 10's when sorted , as car is only 2800-2900 lbs.

Cheers

Lee