this dude really explains oil pumps well, the high volume pump with the standard spring will get you more pressure but not fill your valve covers with oil. he does real good in his explanation.

 

That adapter works. Don't overtighten. The thin section above the threads is prone to break. Google LS oil diagram. You'll see where oil exits pump to LF side of block (pre filter) and also LR (after filter). You need an oil container to fill with oil and then pressurize once connected to oil galley port. I use 1/2" thick rubber over pickup with a backing plate clamped in place. Forgot you need to cover the oil supply holes to the filter. A simple plate with a couple holes to bolt in place and sealer or O rings works. LF port to test oil pump relief valve and pick up tube seal. LR port to test engine bearings, DOD/AFM cover seals (when applicable), etc.

Not a clear vid but provides some insight starting at 16:10

 

thanks for the vid but your right it isnt very clear lol. once i can get the pan off etc. inspect the pickup oring and everything im sure i will figure it out. when i get into it like that im going to do the oil pump and maybe even the chain, might as well eh? gonna pull the valve covers and check the rocker trunions etc.
This dude didnt realy explain how to seal the pickup tube he just said "do it" lol
this engine is very new, only 1000 on it. I heard somewhere, dont know where ive read so friggin much on this, that it could be assembly lube stuck in the filter? so im going the cheap way and go up from there. Hopefully i wont spend enough money to have just bought a new one and dropped it in LOL but where is the fun and frustration in that? ha

 

Very possible you have a clogged oil filter and/or screen on the pick up tube and just make sure you install the correct o-ring on the pickup tube and lube it well before installation.

See post 107 on the link below.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...earings-5.html

You may have already came across this but here's some other valuable information on the LS engines.

https://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?category=1

 

Thanks, putting that pic here for future reference. man that crank is done.

 

thanks for the torque specs...

 

OK, it finally stopped raining so i got my butt out there and changed the oil and filter.
First, the guy had 7.5 quarts of oil in it! minimum, maybe more, surprised i didnt blow out a seal. After doing the oil change I cut the filter open and at the bottom was barely any shaving of anything, some very fine aluminum but i would suppose that would be normal on a new build? rubbed the bottom of the filter case with my finger and there was a layer of grease (assembly lube) on the bottom.
My assumption is that there was (as i was told here) assembly lube all over the filter material as well, causing low oil pressure.
I am getting 28 psi oil pressure at a warm temp idle after i let it sit for a while. driving it very easily, it goes up to 60 and when i let off to come to a stop it slowly goes down to 24ish and then eases back to 28.
However, i still have a small rattle but nothing like before at all. Im going to assume that with the rattle I had before I may have damaged my rockers, rods, guides or what ever in the heads?

 

Just a helpful tip. The first oil change on a brand new just assembled engine, should have been done after the first heat cycle not driving it at all. Then a second oil change should have been done after a 10 mile drive no more. Leaving that oil in there for a 1000+ miles could have done some major wear on everything. Reason being, if the filter clogged, the oil will bypass being unfiltered. The o-ring on the pickup is the usual suspect but in this case it may be all the above. Hopefully you get lucky and its just the o-ring. Best of Luck.

 

Yeah, Hopefully. I got it with 500+ on it and didn't really drive it much because the TCU wasn't programmed properly to begin with so hopefully, if anything is wrong it is in the heads (trunions, rods etc). More so, hopefully nothing is wrong and like you said i got lucky.

 

Sounds like the filter media was loaded/restricted and bypassing. What weight oil did you put in? So now, need to isolate noise issues?

 

Mobile1 5w-30 with a mobile1 filter. Im going to trailer it to a shop here in denver this week who specializes in LS tuning, my diesel mechanic has a nomad with an LS in it and he uses for all his LS stuff.
Im sitting at 23 to 28 at idle with running temps at 750 rpm and up to 40-50 at 1500 rmp dont want to do much more than that with the noise and all.
the noise only happend when i was driving slowly at about 30-35 and then stepped on the gas, it doesnt happen when leaving a light from a stop.

 

Noise = detonation rattle/ping?

 

I am surprised no one has asked, but what oil pump is in the LS1?

 

This ^^

Do you have any info on the oil pump? Is it used or brand new etc

 

To be clear, was this engine rebuilt, or some kind of low/no miles crate engine? If it was a built/rebuilt motor, the bearing clearances might be different than stock. A lot of builders like a little looser clearance and like 15-40 weight or similar.

As noted, the noise *could* have been something else, detonation or some mechanical vibration/rattle. Your numbers don't seem too far off normal. I would drain the oil and inspect it. Its possible on new builds to get gas in the oil for a variety of reasons, which can thin out the oil. Remove the oil filter and cut it open, see if you have any bearing material in there.

You could consider dropping the oil pan and checking a few bearing clearances with plastigage. Not sure what crossmember you have. In my 72 Jimmy, this would require pulling the engine (LQ4, stock truck pan, Dirty Dingo engine crossmember). As much as that can suck, it might be the best way to make sure you aren't killing anything. You might just need heavier oil, or you might need to replace parts.

 

I dont know what pump it has in it, I bought it the way it is, seems like it would be easy enough to remove the pan without issues. after the tune is done Im going to dig into it to make sure of what it is, the dude did a pretty damn good job with all the electronics, cross members, exhaust is bran new etc. everything under the pitina body color/rust is absolutely perfect from front to back. all new lines front to back, wilwood discs in the front etc. tranny cooler and lines, difs look great leafs are new etc.

 

I would figure out/be confident about the oiling problem before tuning it.

 

If you have the stock or a reused oil pump, it wouldn't surprise me that is was that low. If it was a melling 10295, there is clearly a serious issue.

 

OK!.... Thanks a TON for all the input and non flaming on me lol. got it back from the dyno/tuner shop and who ever built this thing didnt realize he/she had a chevy and had a buick tune programmed into it!!!! this timing was WAY off so needless to say I think he found the problem.
Runs like a **** now, no pinging, great oil pressure 20 at hot idle.
again thanks for all the input and help from everyone that contributed! there is still a lot of info in this thread that i will be referencing later.