I Need to Make Progress
#21
I wouldn’t go with LS2 camshaft, not a great cam. Your 6.0 has less compression that will not make the tune spot on. If you think higher stall converter is needed with LS6 camshaft, same probably applies to LS2 camshaft.
Higher stall converter is recommended with LS6 camshaft, because bottom end will be a little softer. It is something you can add later on.
I would definitely go with LS6 camshaft before LS2 cam.
Small aftermarket cam will start and run just fine with factory calibration. Tune will not be spot on and will need some tweaking. But will get you going, just avoid wot until you dyno tune or confirm wot a/f and timing tables are good (no timing knock and a/f not lean).
Higher stall converter is recommended with LS6 camshaft, because bottom end will be a little softer. It is something you can add later on.
I would definitely go with LS6 camshaft before LS2 cam.
Small aftermarket cam will start and run just fine with factory calibration. Tune will not be spot on and will need some tweaking. But will get you going, just avoid wot until you dyno tune or confirm wot a/f and timing tables are good (no timing knock and a/f not lean).
#22
TECH Senior Member
With the LS2 cam, you WILL gain top end at the expense of some low end torque.
As an aside, when Richard Holdener tested all the OEM cams a few years back, he found that the LS2 cam had a propensity for early valve float. Badly designed ramps? Who knows. But a possible reason to avoid it.
Your heads, your cam, and the LS6 intake will perform smoothly and solidly. A solid combo!
As an aside, when Richard Holdener tested all the OEM cams a few years back, he found that the LS2 cam had a propensity for early valve float. Badly designed ramps? Who knows. But a possible reason to avoid it.
Your heads, your cam, and the LS6 intake will perform smoothly and solidly. A solid combo!
#23
With the LS2 cam, you WILL gain top end at the expense of some low end torque.
As an aside, when Richard Holdener tested all the OEM cams a few years back, he found that the LS2 cam had a propensity for early valve float. Badly designed ramps? Who knows. But a possible reason to avoid it.
Your heads, your cam, and the LS6 intake will perform smoothly and solidly. A solid combo!
As an aside, when Richard Holdener tested all the OEM cams a few years back, he found that the LS2 cam had a propensity for early valve float. Badly designed ramps? Who knows. But a possible reason to avoid it.
Your heads, your cam, and the LS6 intake will perform smoothly and solidly. A solid combo!
#24
TECH Senior Member
I was talking about the 1721,or LQ4/9 cam.
Which one does it look like you will run? With he T/F you will need new springs.
Which one does it look like you will run? With he T/F you will need new springs.
#25
When I purchased the Trickflow cam, I got appropriate springs to match. The problem is that I doubt that I would be able to run this cam on the stock tune while I tweak the tune to run okay....
My original plan was to use a TB I6 torque converter behind the 6.0 with the TF 228/230, and have a budget friendly(-ish) build. The advertised RPM range is 2500 up, I believe. But my budget is reduced further, so I was just going to sell it, as I can't afford to have it tuned professionally.
#26
TECH Senior Member
The T/F cam will NOT run with a stock tune. The LQ9 cam might be your best bet here, all things considered.
#27
I have the upgrade LS6 style springs I bought with the T/F cam, I might install those. Even though I probably won't see any benefit from them, it means I can upgrade my cam in the future. Unless I would be better off running stock spring, too?
#28
TECH Senior Member
Go ahead with the LS springs. They will add stability and help if/when you do rev it into the upper zone. No benefit to using the stock springs