New to the Game - Advice?
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 52
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From: Alexandria, Louisiana
New to the Game - Advice? i have a stock 98 TA LS1/T56 combo with just under 100K miles going in my 72 Tribute TA. i want to add a little more torque in the low to mid range without going too deep into an otherwise cherry drivetrain. i already have long tube headers with 1-3/4" primaries for it but, other than that it's bone stock. engine/trans combo is still in the complete donor so i can go in any direction. my plans are spirited driving only, no track or street racing in my future. i mainly want to add torque without breaking the bank. open to go as far as a cam swap, but no plans to go any deeper into the engine. this donor was semi-daily driven and pampered. also clutch suggestions too.
Last edited by Poncho72; Jun 13, 2021 at 01:45 AM.
TECH Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 22,300
Likes: 3,625
From: Central Cal.
I would look at the "larger" truck cams by Cam Motion, Texas Speed, Brian Tooley, and Summit. They retain a good low end torque curve while adding a bunch to the mid and top end. What you should remember is, the stock cam will be best at the extreme low end.
The only aftermarket cam that would build on the extreme low end is the Tooley Truck Torque cam. It is 202/202, .511/.511, 111+1 LSA.
What makes this cam different is the narrower 111 LSA that builds bottom end torque, but in this case without a rough idle usually associated with a narrow LSA.
The low duration makes for a lot of negative overlap, making for a smooth idle.
The only aftermarket cam that would build on the extreme low end is the Tooley Truck Torque cam. It is 202/202, .511/.511, 111+1 LSA.
What makes this cam different is the narrower 111 LSA that builds bottom end torque, but in this case without a rough idle usually associated with a narrow LSA.
The low duration makes for a lot of negative overlap, making for a smooth idle.
TECH Addict
Joined: Dec 2017
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With that drivetrain, the best thing you can possibly do, is GEARS. Unless you (or somebody before you) has changed something, it's probably a 3.08 8.5" 10-bolt.
3.73 is the absolute bare minimum. IMO you could go as high as 4.56 without any problems, given the overdrive. 4.10 would be a decent choice.
I'd suggest doing those first. Then if you think you need a cam, look at something in the 220 - 224 degree range on the intake, 4 - 6 degrees more on the exhaust, in the very high .500"s of lift. About the only other physical parts you will need is valve springs.
A tune is also an unavoidable MUST. It's amazing what optimizing this can accomplish.
3.73 is the absolute bare minimum. IMO you could go as high as 4.56 without any problems, given the overdrive. 4.10 would be a decent choice.
I'd suggest doing those first. Then if you think you need a cam, look at something in the 220 - 224 degree range on the intake, 4 - 6 degrees more on the exhaust, in the very high .500"s of lift. About the only other physical parts you will need is valve springs.
A tune is also an unavoidable MUST. It's amazing what optimizing this can accomplish.
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,504
Likes: 180
From: ELSA, South TEXAS (956) 802-7700
With that drivetrain, the best thing you can possibly do, is GEARS. Unless you (or somebody before you) has changed something, it's probably a 3.08 8.5" 10-bolt.
3.73 is the absolute bare minimum. IMO you could go as high as 4.56 without any problems, given the overdrive. 4.10 would be a decent choice.
I'd suggest doing those first. Then if you think you need a cam, look at something in the 220 - 224 degree range on the intake, 4 - 6 degrees more on the exhaust, in the very high .500"s of lift. About the only other physical parts you will need is valve springs.
A tune is also an unavoidable MUST. It's amazing what optimizing this can accomplish.
3.73 is the absolute bare minimum. IMO you could go as high as 4.56 without any problems, given the overdrive. 4.10 would be a decent choice.
I'd suggest doing those first. Then if you think you need a cam, look at something in the 220 - 224 degree range on the intake, 4 - 6 degrees more on the exhaust, in the very high .500"s of lift. About the only other physical parts you will need is valve springs.
A tune is also an unavoidable MUST. It's amazing what optimizing this can accomplish.
TECH Regular
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 420
Likes: 115
The others have it covered pretty well.
1) Good gear ratio. LS's don't mind turning RPM cruising on the freeway, and you have a pretty good overdrive in that trans. Crunch the numbers on a 4.10 gear and see where that puts you.
2) Tune: Get it tuned well.
Optionals:
3) Cam: This generally isn't going to help low end, but your gears will cover that. But a small cam, 212 to 224 degrees on the intake, will make a big difference in the midrange and high end
4) Heads: If you want to increase power everywhere, have your LS1 heads ported, and milled, or go with 243 heads (stock or ported). Compression ratio increase = more torque everywhere.. Porting = being able to run a stock or small cam and still breathe on the mid-high end.
1) Good gear ratio. LS's don't mind turning RPM cruising on the freeway, and you have a pretty good overdrive in that trans. Crunch the numbers on a 4.10 gear and see where that puts you.
2) Tune: Get it tuned well.
Optionals:
3) Cam: This generally isn't going to help low end, but your gears will cover that. But a small cam, 212 to 224 degrees on the intake, will make a big difference in the midrange and high end
4) Heads: If you want to increase power everywhere, have your LS1 heads ported, and milled, or go with 243 heads (stock or ported). Compression ratio increase = more torque everywhere.. Porting = being able to run a stock or small cam and still breathe on the mid-high end.
There will probably be several guys disagree with me on this one. but. I have run the "LS-7 clutch" in my wagon for a few years. For the price point, I've never found anything better for a spirited daily driver.
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